Speaker wire button jammed on cube

I don't see why not. The Pioneer has lots of speaker outputs.

https://intl.pioneer-audiovisual.com/products/av_receiver/vsx-lx101/

The Bose are old school wired units.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/325031344288?hash=item4bad60b8a0:g:DxQAAOSwv5phNvmO

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Have your son "play" with it again, or at least have him show you what he was doing when it "fell" out, he may have stumbled on the technique, but chances are a tab has broken off meaning it should be easier to remove now. Good Luck!

Greetings,
In looking up this partial model # KSRS25, it shows you have
the model with the large ice bin inside the freezer.
My question to you is: Does the auger motor run when you
push the ice lever?
2 trouble prone parts on this model. Both in the case of NO
auger motor activation.
#1 broken pin that hold the micro-switch on to the switch bracket.
Item # 15



Next #2 and the Worst, A Broken Blue wire or wires in the wire loom
under the freezer door hinge. Un-repairable new door needed if still
available.. You have to get creative restoring the power.
So before I continue, Does the Auger motor Run?
And if it does, remove the bin and close the door switch that turns the
light off, and tape switch shut. With door open and ice cradle pushed
in watch the auger drive fork turn? Is the the key hole stripped in the
fork.(rounded out) May need the fork or motor. #9 & #2

the reason for this problem is a jam of ice inside the ice bin that will not let the knives that crush the cubes,and cant release to let cubes go by uncrushed,remove the ice bin,put the remaining cubes in a bucket,or toss,then check the ice auger in the bin and if theres a build-up of ice melt it with hot water,then thoroughly dry it,then replace this unit into the freezer,but do not use it until its cold again from melting the ice jam,then resume the ice making cycle

The socket the umbilical plugs into, is connected directly to the speaker output terminals. Your HiFi amp just feeds through the mission sub. The sub looks at the speaker terminals for bass information present. Making whatever noise it see's fit. I use one of these for a PC setup. I run a speaker wire from just one of my 2 desktop speakers, to any set of speaker out terminals on the sub that I like. The sub watches all 6 sets anyway, and my 2.0 desktop will be mono bass. So just one speaker wire is all it takes.

HI,

I've just had a Roland Micro Cube amplifier in for repair and it uses the same type of Alps switch you mention. ( It's also broken )

This is a simple single-pole latching push-button switch, so electrically, almost anything rated for an amp will be good enough.

Alps no longer make the same part, so you'll need to find something which looks the same and fits the original hole.

My repair is easier, because the replacement part doesn't have to match anything.

Graham.

sometimes when you push the cable in i have seen folks get the cable into to far and then the conduit part is inside the connector also and the button will not come back down, make sure you only have the striped part inside the hole. if that does not work you might have to take a jewelers flat screwdriver and pry it down a little, either one should work. if not then either take speaker back to factory if under warranty or remove speaker and change the button. try the first one then the next one them the two common ones. good luck and let me know.

There are 2 sets of wires on the cutting grid that are perpendicular to each other. Electrical current passing through the wires creates heat that melts the ice. The first set cuts one direction, then the ice strips drop onto the second set that cuts the strips into cubes. Remove the cutter grid and check if the wires are broken. If they are, electrical current can't pass through the wires, so no heat. Restringing kits are available to fix this. If the wires aren't broken, you'll need a voltmeter to see if current is reaching the wires. If it isn't, then the transformer has likely failed.

what the exact model # of the unit..?

Ok…

I had the same problem with a Bose separated double-cube Acoustimass speaker/array but was able to fix it as follows:

Tools:
small, thin, flat-head screwdriver
large pliers
C-clamp

Instructions:
1. Disconnect the speaker wires from the cube.
2. Remove the grille from the top speaker cube. It just pops off.
3. Insert a small, thin, flat-head screwdriver around the perimeter of the speaker. You will have to pry lightly to break the glue’s seal.
4. Using a set of pliers (large, plumber-sized) wiggle the speaker until it comes free. You might need to grip it top to bottom and then left to right. The speaker will come free of the case.
5. Remove the white insulation to get a clear view of the dislodged brace/connector.
6. Stack the top and bottom cubes. Make sure that the rubber seal between the cubes is seated properly and that the black and white cables are not pinched.
7. Using the C-clamp, compress the brace/connector until it seats on one side. Loosen the C-clamp and compress the opposite side. The brace/connector should snap into place. Be sure the make sure that you do not pinch the speak wires that are running through the center of the brace/connector.
8. Test the articulation. It should be the same as your other speakers.
9. Replace the white insulation in the back of the speaker case.
10. Press the speaker into the case’s face. If you wish, you can apply your preference of glue to the edge of the speaker prior to pressing it into the case.
11. Snap the grille onto the speaker.
12. Connect the speaker wires to the cube and you are done.

You should be good to go.