Question about Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Dishwasher Problem
The dishwasher should have a thermal fuse mounted to the control board behind the operator console. It is a small silver colored device
attached to a white plactic bracket. In some model dishwashers the
wrong gage wiring was used causing the wires to heat up and trip the
thermal fuse. There was no apparent risk of fire or anything like that,
but the thermal fuses didn't tolerate the heat differential too well. A
fix for the problem was to purchase a thermal fuse replacement kit
(found at most appliance repair stores) that had thicker wires. The
part number for the thermal fuse kit is 959376 and the price is $16.85. You can find it at
repairclinic.com. Order on line and have the part shipped directly to
you. Now...to access the control board perform the following:
1. Turn off the main breaker to the dishwasher. This is important. Even though the dishwasher is not running, the control board still has live voltages present.
2. Open dishwasher door and remove the top screws that hold the console in place. You shouldn't have to remove the lower screws unless you plan on removing the entire door panel.
3. The control panel should pull off from the front enough to where you can access the control board. There is a thermal fuse mounted on the board with two wire leads going to it. The fuse is silver in color and mounted to a plastic bracket which is mounted to the control board.
4. Cut the wires on the old fuse and splice the new fuse kit to it. Leave plenty of wire to accommodate. There will be instructions included with your replacement kit. Ensure you follow the direction thoroughly and tighten the wire lug screws securely.
NOTE: Do not attempt to reuse the existing wires by simply unplugging the old fuse and replacing it with the new one (been there). The fuse will eventually blow again. Follow the instructions provided and you can't go wrong.
If you have any further quesitons, or if you run into trouble during your repairs, let me know. Good luck to you.
PS If you do not wish to order on line, take the part number I provided you to any major appliance repair shop and they SHOULD have the part available. This is a known problem and a common fail item.
Posted on Dec 15, 2007
SOURCE: Central Vac will not turn on.
These problems are nearly exclusively caused by a bad circut board and replacing it is the fix. Bad boards can cause many different effects so its nearly impossible to be sure. The 9v signal wire is not enough to short out an entire unit so it is unlikely the hose. If it is a direct connect system and you are pulling power from the 110 somehow that would cause main unit problems but that is unlikely at best. Sounds like a failed board to me.
Best of Luck
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
Please clarify that we are talking about the central vac LED/switch panel panel and plugging it into a 110 V wall receptacle.
If I understand when you unplug from the power source ,then plug back in the green LED comes on, looking normal ? But when you manually activate the switch on the motor housing of the vac itself the vac does not start and the LED goes out, so no green or red LED at that point?
If this is the case , Kenmore CV's built approx 5 years ago (MADE by EUREKA) and prior had a circuit board with attached cord (as opposed to detachable) which was prone to relay failure. There were several symptoms, most common was that the relay on that switch panel /circuit board would fuse on and the vac would continue to run when the hose was detached from the wall.However some I worked on from that era had exactly the same symptom you describe. If your unit is between 5 and 10 years old and this sounds accurate, you can unscrew this curved side panel relay with one philips screw. Inside on the PCB will be an L shaped black or white 24volt relay, generally rated at 10 amps. The replacement board or relay will be rated at least 24V/ 15 amps or more. If you can isolate your motor and test it separtely with a power cord or meter , the realy/board will be the only control componnet left.
If you have a small tipped soldering IRON, not a gun, you can generally find a replacement relay to rebuild the board for about $6 at an electronics parts store. Otherwise you will need to replace the control board itself, anywhere form $45 to $70 plus service call if you have a tech come out to the house, and the tech will just unscrew , detach wires and replace the board, no repair , approx 15 minutes work. This will likely cost over $100.
Please post back with your results
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
The 'remote' terminal is powered by a lead that is normally connected off the head unit...if it has this feature...the head unit, if a good quality one' will have a blue wire that will turn on the amp, by providing a signal to it.........if not, you can bypasss this
Posted on Sep 20, 2010
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