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Re: freezer has frost building and the refridgerator is...
Make sure the evaporator fan is working, open door and push switch in if fan works make sure opening from freezer to fridge is not blocked. if door was removed make sure light in fridge is shuting off if temp in fridge is in the 50 degree range your light switch is not being deactivated check spacers between door and hinge . sometimes when door is removed a spacer will fall on floor and light switch is not hitting door
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check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.
But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.
If designed as most combination units, one of the two controls influences the temperature directly, the other only determines how much of the generated cold air is allowed to enter the other compartment.
The typical arrangement is that setting the freezer temperature determines how often often the compressor runs; the other diverts a portion of the cold air into the refrigerator side.
Using the common thermometer for cold temperatures (~$5 US), adjust the freezer temperature for 0 to -5 degrees F (the often recommended temp.), then the other control for the desired refrigerator temperature, suggested as 35-45 F. This is the most common practice.
If you cannot balance them the way you want, reverse the procedure, setting for refrigerator temp., then freezer.
Hi, Check the rear inside panel of the freezer section and see if there is a frost build up. Also check and make sure the evaporator fan motor in the freezer is running.
If there is a frost build up, remove the rear indise panel and check the defrost heater and bi-metal switch for continuity. The bi-metal switch located on the top of the evaporator has to be tested while it is still cold.
If either of them show an open circuit, it will need replaced. If both of these parts show ok, you will need to replace the defrost timer/board.
Please let me know what you find and if I can assist you further.
due to lots of moisture in the air or high humidity it creates extra frost in the freezing unit this creates blockage in the air flow once the ice crystals build up. the freezer is what keeps the fridge at the normal temperature if the air flow between the two are blocked in the ducting then the fridge temperature will rise the best way to solve this is to open the freezer take out the 4 screws in the back panel tilt the panel forward and blow it with a blow dryer till the ice chunk has melted its a good idea to use a towel and on the top self of the fridge to obsorb excess water this can be kinda messy. or you can unplug your fridge for about 6 or so hours. good luck hope i helped. :)
sounds like you may have gotten a refridgerant leak causing a low charge condition. some refridgerators have a evaporator fan if this quit working it will cause it to freeze up .thus the freezer does not use a fan and it will still get cold
It is possible to get this build up in the return vents. Check seals for any possiblilty of warm air getting into the fridge. Warm air getting in will cause this. For now use a hair dryer or some hot water to clear the vents. Let me know what you find. Would appreciate a solved rating for expert advice.