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The standard factory tension setting is the midpoint between the highest and lowest numbers. However, as a sewist, you should adjust the tension to correspond with the needle, thread and fabric weight of your project.. The tension is not a static setting. It should be adjusted for each project you are working on at the moment.
hi moe.... sometimes when the chain comes off it damages the bar or the chain and causes what you are now experiencing. Check the groove in the bar to make sure it does not have a burr or a spot where the chain is too tight. also check the chain to be sure that there is not a bent part. When you put the chain into the bar, it should spin freely, unless the chain tension is too tight.
Once you check the bar and the chain and repair any damage be sure to generously lubricate the bar and the chain. Then be sure that the chain tension is adjusted so that it is not too loose or too tight. When you raise up on the chain in the middle of the bar it should barely clear the bar.
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If your saw is not a 4620????, reply below with the model and serial numbers. Poulan.com/CurrentModels http://www.poulanpro.com/node4043.aspx Type just the model numbers (choose the suffix after the list is provided). I find this easier to understand than the manual: Chain Adjustment
Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They do not need these really loose - finger tight will do.
Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more (1/8 or less).
Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
Derailleur adjustment takes time to master. Try this out:
First, wash your drive train out really thoroughly and use a degreaser (Simple Green works really well) and a chain brush on the derailleur and chain. Rinse it off and let it dry, then relubricate the chain (and ONLY the chain - never lubricate your derailleur). Now flip your bike onto the bars and saddle so you can crank while you shift manually. Use the middle chainring up front to adjust the rear gears. Okay, shift into your highest gear in the back and then release the derailleur cable. Use this opportunity to make certain your "H" setting is good; the derailleur's jockey wheel should be perfectly aligned over the small cog. Now manually push the derailleur to the lowest gear (while pedaling) and set the "L" so the jockey wheel is immediately outside the last cog. crank back to the high gear. Turn the barrel adjuster for the cable tension to its half-way point (figured by unscrewing it all the way and then counting revolutions as you screw it back in). Pull the cable taut and reattach it. Shift into your middle gear (or if it is an even number of gears, pick one of the two middle gears). Use the barrel adjuster to get the jockey wheel exactly over the correct cog. Pedal and shift through the gears. In each gear, back-pedal to make sure the chain is not skipping. You should be able to free-wheel without problem in every gear on a properly adjusted drive train. If the gears are requiring much adjustment on the barrel adjuster, then you may have a bent derailleur hanger. This can be straightened manually without tools if you have a good eye and patience. If it goe that far, come back and repost "bent derailleur hanger".
Install chain with cutting edges facing forward as viewed on top of the bar.After adjusting chain close to tight, lift chain up with light pressure in center of bar till drive teeth are even with bar and tighten bar nuts. Hope this helps
This depends on the model you have. There are lots of genesis bikes have manual resistance knobs on the main post, right in front of the seat. If it doesn't have a knob here, then it might be electronically operated in which case there might be a problem if it isn't adjusting with the program.
Hi Sally, I guess you don't have the owners manual. It tells you how to adjust chain tension. If you look around near the motor side of the bar, you should see two nuts that hold a bracket tight against the bar and an adjustment screw or bolt or something to loosen or tighten the chain by moving the bar or making it longer or shorter. Adjust that so that the bar is as short as possible and put the chain back in place. Then tighten that feature till the chain is snug again and tighten the two nuts to hold the bar firmly.