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Snowblower won't start this year. Machine

Machine has a total of 2-3 hours on it. I put fuel conditioner in last spring and it won't start this year. I had the same problem last year and put it in to have it repaired. New carb. kit, plug, wire, and oil . Worked good when it went in for the summer. What do I check for.

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  • jamiem1416
    jamiem1416 Jan 20, 2013

    This is a 7HP, yard machine 22''

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  • 322 Answers

Did you run the engine for about 15 minutes after you added the fuel conditioner? If not then the conditioner didn't get into the carburetor and you probably will need to take it apart and clean it again. The ethanol in today's fuel causes problems in carbs that sit

Posted on Jan 23, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: mtd snowblower 4.5 no spark new coil,new plug

Hello pbck98:

>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I Made for Checking the Coil/Ign Coil/Magnetron/Armature on Small Engines. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**To Check the Ign Coil; Remove the Spark Plug/s.
>>With a Good Plug, Wrap a Wire Around the Threads of the Plug and Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block. >>Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). The Wire that is Connected to the Coil/Ign Module from the Shut Off Switch needs to be Removed (unplugged) from the Coil/Ign Module.
>>Now Check for Spark at the Plug.
>>If Spark, then the Shut Off Switch or the Wire is Bad.
>>If Still No Spark, then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. If there are Safety Switches on this Unit and the Coil is Good; you Need to Check the Safety Switches for Being Bad and Check the Oil Guard Switch also.**
>>If you have a New Coil/Ign Coil and Still No Spark, then
>>Turn the Coil Over and Check for Spark. Ign Coils are Wound 1 Way for Clockwise Engine and the Oposite Way for Counter Clockwise Rotation Engines. I have Seen Ign Coil Boxed Wrong and Turning the Ign Coil Over will Correct the Problem.
>>The Coil is Gapped to .015in from the Flywheel.
For Better Assistance;
>>Send me the Make, Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: I have a honda mtd pro 11a-588q795 push mower and

Hello:

>>The Following is a Simple Way to make Sure the Engine is Getting Gas from the Carburetor to Run.
>>Pour a Small Amount of Gas (approximately 1oz) into the Carburetor Throat and Try to Start the Engine.
>>If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Check the Carburetor Solenoid.
>>If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good or has been Removed and the Engine will Start and Quit when the Gas is Poured into the Carburetor Throat, then Soak and Clean the Carburetor.
If the Carburetor is the Cause, then
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then
>>**Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk).
>>The Primer Bulb is Held in Place with a Locking Collar at the Base of the Primer Bulb. Use a Small Flat Screw Driver and Carefully Pry the Lock Ring Up in Small Amounts All Around the Lock Ring until the Lock Ring and Primer Bulb can be Removed from the Carburetor Body. Usually a New Primer Bulb is Required when you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Rubber is Usually Rotted to Much for the Primer to be Reused.
>>Your Primer Bulb May Differ Slightly, but Removal is Usually Almost the Same Except for the Primer Bulbs that are Bolted to the Carburetor. These are Simply Unbolted and Changed with the new Primer Bulb.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also.
>>The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool.
>>Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable).
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower/Engine at this Site Addy, http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=ASP&lang=EN&TF=Mainframe&LoginID=hywd&loginpwd=hywd&Partner=HYWD and Select the Catalog American Honda.
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Unit at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM (MTD) and Enter the Model Numbers (). Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Now you can Select the Section of the Unit you Wish to View.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck

Respectfully

John

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: lawn mower ony runs at idle and dies after seconds

try holding the throttle open

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

redbeard00
  • 957 Answers

SOURCE: my cub cadet tank stops running 5-20 minuts after

Yes you may need a carb kit. It is not good practice to by-pass the fuel filter. The orifice in the jet is very small.
But anyways, There Could still be a blockage inside the carb, a small leak at the manifold, or the jet is worn out.
Let me know how it goes.

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: Want start. Lawn mower is about 4 years old.

Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it
run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,
but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
If the mower is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that you
buy and install a new carburetor repair kit, because the diaphragm will
get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, count the
number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position.
That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns
they were in/out.
Please do not forget to rate me, Thanks
Good Luck, I hope this help

Posted on May 24, 2010

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