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Re: Is the thermal switch on a crosley cde6000w located...
The little one on the side of the element box is to be closed.its a one time thermal fuse.you can put the wire's of it together and rap with black tape....but check this out .that fuse is their to stop a high heat issue.so if i went to a home and had this situation,i would clean out the filter housing,make sure the blower wheel is not free wheeling on the motor shaft,and make sure the house ducting is clean........when you have by passed the fuse[or replaced]the element should glow orange but not to intense if too intense then may still have a blockage.also if long dry times that would be a clue that the home ducting is restricted......also if you block the dryer exhaust you can see what i mean by intense orange glow.normal is you can see the glow but not real brite.i'll be there if you need more help!....God bless you ...Tom
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To open it up to check the thermal fuse,the top pops up..to pop up the top use a putty knife and place it between the top and the top of the front panel at the corners and depress a clip on each corner that holds the top to the front panel. Once the top is up the thermal fuse can be found on the right side of the housing where the heat element goes...that housing where the element is mouted to the rear of the plate that supports the rear of the drum at the top,the thermal fuse will be on the right side of the heater housing about 3-4 inches down on that housing..if memory serves me their is 2 white wires connected to the thermal fuse and to check it disconnect those wires and check the thermal fuse for continuity with zero ohms resistiance...if it has a open circuit its will be bad
The part number for that thermal fuse is LA-1053 it also comes with the high limit t-stat which you will see on top of the heat element and it to should be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse
All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.
The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.
what do you mean, does anything work? if not chk incoming power for 240 volts if motor is not working chk mtr start capacitor, if element doesnt heat chk hi-limit switch,thermal fuse in element circuitry
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here. Meter testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ). But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter.... To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
Before you replace the heating element, check the thermal fuse. All heaters have safety thermal fuse. This opens in case the thermostat fails. This is normally attached on or near the heating element, looks like diode. (When replacing, do not solder ! this will damage the fuse)