Put on a new drive belt, it now agitates but won't spin. It pumps fine, the moter moves smoothly, it agitates fines. I have it apart, things look fine, no oil or shavings and the clutch seemes to engauge. However when moving the tub by hand cranking with the clutch its quite an effort. Thanks.
This is the second time this has happened. Replaced main drive belt
first time, fixed problem. 6 months later, it is happening again. The
tub gets VERY hard to turn and ends up burning up the belt. Sometimes,
letting it sit for a while, it will correct itself, but not all of the
time. At wits end.
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Re: Maytag Washer, LAT2300AAE, won't spin
Ok lets see here;your transmission can go in two directions.if you turn the middle pully one way it will agaitate if you turn the oppisit direction you can watch [from under neath]the brake raise as the cam seperates and lifts the brake.now with the brake lifted ,your tub should spin.if its not lifting the brake you need a new center pully kit[i have had to do many]it comes with washers ,bearings and cams.if the brake lifts and your tub still wont spin you may have a pice of clothing between the two tubs[i had that one to,many times]i hope that helps.you can email thru fixya if need more advice God bless ,tom
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It is normal for the belts on this model to be loose. Normally the noise that you are hearing is either the damper (a white plastic type material,comes in a kit) or the pump making the noise. Take the belt off the pump and put it into a spin cycle and see if you hear it. If so ck the tub bearing for rust or leaking and the damper for wear. If you don't here it, ck the pump.
Look under the washer. Is there a little pile of black rubber shavings? This sounds like the basket coupler between the motor and the drum. If the coupler is the problem it is inexpensive to fix. Some also call this part the "clutch". It kind of looks like a hockey puck with six holes in it... three for the motor, three for the clothes drum. In your case, I suspect that the holes are intact in the direction of spin, but as soon as it reverses for agitation, it breaks out through the back of the holes.
Try these things first.
1) Verify a circuit breaker isn't tripped
2) Advance the timer control dial slowly 360 degrees-
If the washer starts spinning, then we know the motor and drive belt are fine but that there is something wrong with either the timer control dial or the agitator solenoid. Call in a professional for this.
If the washer doesn't budge, then verify that the drive belt(s) is attached and not broken by removing the back panel. If the belt is broken, replace it. If it is loose, then tighten it by loosening up the bolt holding the motor and moving it on its swingarm (much like a car alternator) until there is a 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection in the belt.
Some washers use reversing motors. It's possible the motor works on the spin cycle but not on the wash cycle. If so, call a pro.
3) Visually inspect the lid safety switch- Is it loose or cracked? If so, the washer might work intermittently, stopping at different cycles.
4) Check motor and drive belt- Remove the main access panel (usually in the back). Is the motor spinning, but the drive belt isn't? If so, then you have a drive belt problem. Go here.
If the motor isn't spinning, then go here for washer motor troubleshooting.
If none of these tips resolve the problem, then there's probably a more serious problem with either the motor, the transmission or the agitator itself. If this is is the case, call in a pro.
Thanks for using Fixya.
Could be a worn belt,
Empty the machine and tilt backwards, you may need some help to do this.
Remove the belt and check, some times these appear OK but may have stretched.
Chech the agitator pully, try to rotate, will only move in one direction, see agitator moving as you do, get the person helping you to see this.
Check the motor moves freely on the tensioner, motor will appear to move 2".
Fit a new belt and try.
It sounds like the plastic inside the agitator cog are worn. The smell is the plastic cog turning but the agitator not turning.
Take off the top
of the agitator. If any screw are available remove them. If not grab
the agitator from the bottom and yank off. Unscrew the agitator drive
cog and inspect underside of agitator. Go to an appliance repair shop
and reorder a new one. Between $15-30.
You are correct that motor turns one direction for agitate and the other for spin. The problem you describe sounds serious but there is a chance it is not. First, try to turn the transmission by hand. If it wont turn by hand, remove the agitator and see if something has gotten under it and has it locked to the basket. To remove the agitator, pop off the top cap and look down inside. You will see the bolt that holds the agitator on. After you take it loose the agitator will slide off.
If there is nothing there, the transmission will need to be replaced. If the washer is less than 5 years old, the transmission may still be covered by warranty. Check your owners manual for warranty details. Post back to let me know what you find out.