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CONSIDER THIS BOTH LEGS OF AC MUST WORK TO GET HEAT FOR DRYER Maybe you don''t have power to both legs of your receptacle. Both legs of the 220 volt AC have to work go get heat. Only one leg is used to run the motor etc.. Your motor runs so this can fool you into believing that the electrical connection is ok when it really is not. Your dryer is on a double circuit with two breakers. If one fails you lose one 110 volt leg which can be the one giving the full 220 Volt needed for the heater. This happens quite frequently and people mistakenly replace heating coils. You could have a bad breaker, one of the two. You must check this first before assuming anything else. Get help if you are uncomfortable with potentially deadly voltages
your voltage is not right as it should be 220 volts, check the outlet to see if you have 220 if you do then its the cord, if not then it is either the outlet or the breaker-panel, to check panel remove panel and test both legs of the breaker you should have 220 if not then replace the 30 amp breaker. Tim
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
Have you checked the voltage at the outlet? You're supposed to read 220-240 VAC at the heating element. Your dryer heating circuits require at least 220 VAC to work. The motor, however, only uses 120 VAC. That's why your dryer may be running, but the heating circuits aren't heating. I would go back and check your outlet. You may be missing one leg of the 220 service, or have a loose, burned, or broken wire in the plug or terminal block (on the back of the dryer). Let me know what you find. I hope this helps you.
Frist need to check red and black for 220 at dryer cord the attached to dryer and see if you get 220 the way you discribed it can still be gettiong only 110 .. will bleed back from other side and give false reading.
check the hi limit themofuse on buner.. towards top on burner for continuity... check the burner thermostate, cycleing theomstate on outlet vent.. post if need more help
If the timer is set for a auto dry cycle, the timer won't advance if not heating. You need to check for 220 volts at outlet. It's possible to have only 1 110 volt circuit. May be a bad breaker. or outlet. If you have 220 volts at outlet, you need to have an ohm meter to check continuity of the thermal fuses and the heater. Access by removing rear panel. UNPLUG FIRST!!!!!
You need to check for 220 volts at outlet. It's possible
to have only 1 110 volt circuit. May be a bad breaker. or outlet. If
you have 220 volts at outlet, you need to have an ohm meter to check
continuity of the thermal fuses and the heater. Access by removing
rear panel. UNPLUG FIRST!!!!!