Question about Garden
Have done the following: stripped carb, cleaned jet, air cleaned ports, changed fuel, cleaned bowl, checked float, cleaned filter, checked exhaust port, fuel cock. Compression seems OK throttle opens/closes OK, choke opens/closes OK.
It is all in the carb. When you shoot ether into it it runs until it is burned off then the carb can't supply the engine with enough fuel to keep it running.
Posted on Jan 23, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you should have an air/fuel mixture screw on the carb somewhere. Start the engine and turn it one way then the other a small amount at a time. One way it will get worse and one way it will get better. Keep turning till it smooths out
Posted on May 09, 2009
Hi Dave, it sounds crazy, but try this. Check your gas cap. It could be clogged, causing a vacuum to occur in the tank, and therefore not allowing the carb. to take on gas. It usually take 10-15 min. for this to occur. The next time you run the mower and it starts to stall out, loosen the gas cap and see if it begins to run again. If it does, then you know that the gas cap is clogged.
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
Are you sure you got all the passageways in the carb cleaned out?
How did it look when you first disassebled it? Full of rust and gunk or just shellac on the surfaces?
Take the fuel line off at the carb and MAKE SURE that fuel flows freely. I have seen trash get in the tank and plub the other end up. Does it have a vaccuum operated fuel pump?
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
SOURCE: Craftsman Eager1 6.75hp mower
How long does it run? If only a few seconds, then it is running on the fuel from priming, and the carb is not supplying fuel to keep it running. If it runs for a minute or longer then stalls, then you have a restriction or blockage in the fuel lines, the tank, or the area where the fuel line connects to the carburetor.
You didn't mention which engine it had. Most carbs will have a round bowl on the bottom, held in place by a brass nut (often 9/16" wrench size)
Remove the bottom nut on the carb bowl. Depending on the carb model, the nut may have some holes on the inside--these are part of the metering system, so don't damage the holes or scrape brass away as you clean out any scale, corrosion, etc.
I find that a piece of 14 gage copper automotive wire works well. Remove the insulation about 3/8" and use the wire strands like a brush. Also run a strand through the holes as well as down the center of the nut.
Spray everything off with carb cleaner. The WalMart Super Tech brand is cheapest and works fine. Brake cleaner will work, too, but it doesn't have the lubricants that carb cleaner has.
Make sure you spray up through the bottom where the carb bowl bolts to the carburetor.
If you have knurled screws on the side or top of the carb, these are the needle valves. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THEM, carefully screw them in, counting the number of turns. Don't screw too tightly, just until slight resistance is felt. Then, screw them out. Spray them with cleaner and wipe down. Also spray the holes they came out of. (Make sure you don't lose the small springs under the screw head--they keep the screws from backing out when the engine is running).
Assemble everything again. Screw the needle valves all the way in, then back out the number of turns you counted when first removing them.
Make sure your fuel tank is clean. Moisture from condensation can collect--clean it all out. Blow out the fuel line with compressed air--even an inflating needle on a tire pump will work if you seal the end of the hose with a rag after inserting the valve. Give the pump a couple strokes and you're done.
Now start the engine. It should run fine. If it doesn't, take it to a small engine mechanic.
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
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