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HRU196 will start with "start ya *******" but will not continue to run on fuel

Have done the following: stripped carb, cleaned jet, air cleaned ports, changed fuel, cleaned bowl, checked float, cleaned filter, checked exhaust port, fuel cock. Compression seems OK throttle opens/closes OK, choke opens/closes OK.

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  • John Clark Jan 21, 2013

    I have been keeping small engines going for some 60 years. never encountered one so intractable. Seems to be fuel, since will start on ether. Have not as yet changed gaskets, but they seem OK. Come on guys! What else?

  • John Clark Jan 24, 2013

    Kelly,Yes! in the carb. Clean jet, float and needle valve OK, Strip again. Thanks

  • John Clark Jan 25, 2013

    This is one of those problems that seem to be insoluble. Motors need fuel, air and ignition. This one is not getting fuel, but for some reason outside the norm. There is a solution, and it will ne found.

  • Kelly Buxton
    Kelly Buxton Jan 25, 2013

    if by cleaning the carb it still won't go buy a new carb. Also you said that the compression appears to be ok. What does the compression gauge read after 5 pulls?

  • John Clark Jan 29, 2013

    FIXED! Stripped, cleaned carb again checking all aspects. Starts first time. Thanks to all respondents.

  • Kelly Buxton
    Kelly Buxton Jan 29, 2013

    glad we could help


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  • 322 Answers

It is all in the carb. When you shoot ether into it it runs until it is burned off then the carb can't supply the engine with enough fuel to keep it running.

Posted on Jan 23, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Mower not running at set speed, choking

you should have an air/fuel mixture screw on the carb somewhere. Start the engine and turn it one way then the other a small amount at a time. One way it will get worse and one way it will get better. Keep turning till it smooths out

Posted on May 09, 2009

#1 Taper
  • 1040 Answers

SOURCE: Engine only runs with choke full on. Dies when off full choke.

Hi Dave, it sounds crazy, but try this. Check your gas cap. It could be clogged, causing a vacuum to occur in the tank, and therefore not allowing the carb. to take on gas. It usually take 10-15 min. for this to occur. The next time you run the mower and it starts to stall out, loosen the gas cap and see if it begins to run again. If it does, then you know that the gas cap is clogged.


Posted on Jun 05, 2009

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SOURCE: 4.5hp Sears/Tecumseh motor starts and dies in 5 - 10 seconds.

metal or plasic float?

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 512 Answers

SOURCE: Briggs and Stratton 19.5 hp 42e707 Hunts and Surges

Are you sure you got all the passageways in the carb cleaned out?

How did it look when you first disassebled it? Full of rust and gunk or just shellac on the surfaces?

Take the fuel line off at the carb and MAKE SURE that fuel flows freely. I have seen trash get in the tank and plub the other end up. Does it have a vaccuum operated fuel pump?

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Craftsman Eager1 6.75hp mower

How long does it run? If only a few seconds, then it is running on the fuel from priming, and the carb is not supplying fuel to keep it running. If it runs for a minute or longer then stalls, then you have a restriction or blockage in the fuel lines, the tank, or the area where the fuel line connects to the carburetor.

You didn't mention which engine it had. Most carbs will have a round bowl on the bottom, held in place by a brass nut (often 9/16" wrench size)
Remove the bottom nut on the carb bowl. Depending on the carb model, the nut may have some holes on the inside--these are part of the metering system, so don't damage the holes or scrape brass away as you clean out any scale, corrosion, etc.

I find that a piece of 14 gage copper automotive wire works well. Remove the insulation about 3/8" and use the wire strands like a brush. Also run a strand through the holes as well as down the center of the nut.
Spray everything off with carb cleaner. The WalMart Super Tech brand is cheapest and works fine. Brake cleaner will work, too, but it doesn't have the lubricants that carb cleaner has.

Make sure you spray up through the bottom where the carb bowl bolts to the carburetor.

If you have knurled screws on the side or top of the carb, these are the needle valves. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THEM, carefully screw them in, counting the number of turns. Don't screw too tightly, just until slight resistance is felt. Then, screw them out. Spray them with cleaner and wipe down. Also spray the holes they came out of. (Make sure you don't lose the small springs under the screw head--they keep the screws from backing out when the engine is running).

Assemble everything again. Screw the needle valves all the way in, then back out the number of turns you counted when first removing them.

Make sure your fuel tank is clean. Moisture from condensation can collect--clean it all out. Blow out the fuel line with compressed air--even an inflating needle on a tire pump will work if you seal the end of the hose with a rag after inserting the valve. Give the pump a couple strokes and you're done.

Now start the engine. It should run fine. If it doesn't, take it to a small engine mechanic.

Posted on Apr 04, 2010

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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Did the bike sit for a long while with gas in it?

What happens over time is the gas starts to break down (go bad).
When it does this, it turns into almost a varnish.
This starts plugging the holes in the jets, and the ports drilled in the carb, starting with the smallest, which is the idle circuit.

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You need to remove the carb and "boil it out" (clean and rebuild), paying attention to the idle jets and ports.

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1 Answer

Clogged carburator, how do I get it out to clean?

Make sure that dirty carbs are actually your problem. Lots of things can make a bike run poorly or not start. Weak battery, corroded electrics, old spark plugs, bad timing, low compression, mis-adjusted valves, dirty air filter, and plugged exhausts can all cause poor running. I'll write an article eventually on how to diagnose poor running conditions shortly, but for now - lets just deal with the carbs.
There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also effect performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.

Carb Cleaning 101
Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o'rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

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Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

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Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

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Nov 24, 2009 | 2007 Yamaha V Star Classic

1 Answer

I have a troy built self propelled mower, it ran great last season, now it will not stay running. I checked to see if it was getting fuel and it is. I primed it and it acts like it is going to run and then...

The jets in carbs are really small and clog easily. If you stored your mower with gas in it start by replacing the gas. Remove the air filter and prime the carb. Start the engine and place your fingers over the air intake on the carb. This will cause the engine to stall as it will be starved for air. It will also create a powerful suction on the jets and possibly dislodge a blockage. Prime the engine again and start. If does not continue to run, repeat the steps again. If after 3-4 tries your engine wont run you will have to remove the carb and clean the jets manually. The reason your engine runs for a short time is because it is burning the fuel that you put in there by priming it. After that the fuel comes through the jets in the carb and if these jets are clogged the engine will die.

Jun 06, 2009 | Troy Bilt 5.5hp Self Propelled Mower

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