Question about Kenmore 500 3.5 cu. ft. Top-Load Washing Machine 2952
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had a similiar problem with my washer back in Sept. I discovered it was actaully leaking from under the washer, IAt first it appeared as though it was running down from the top of the washer somewhere. I pulled the washer out and had my son hold it at an angle to see if I could determine where exactly it was leaking from.That's when I discovered it was actually cominig from the Plastic Pump located directly under the tub. In the center part of the pump, there is a circle, surrounded by grey sealant, (on mine), straight from the manufacturer and within a year and a half, the sealant developed a hole which caused mine to eventually pour water from it while filling. It was very simple to fix and only $50.00 for a new pump. Sure Beat those hard to swallow service fees. Good Luck!
Posted on Jan 11, 2008
We have one of two situations happening here. Either your timer is going or the motor is blown. The other thing is to put the machine into spin and see if it drains, let me know!
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
How to replace Whirlpool/Kenmore washer
dual action agitator ratchet ‘dogs’, kit # 285770
Tools needed: Screwdriver, 3/8" drive ratchet wrench, 7/16" socket (older models), 3/8" drive to 1/2" adapter (newer models), long 3/8" drive extension, small amt liquid detergent
1) Pry the agitator cap off by inserting a screwdriver into the cap’s notch
2) Pull the inner cap (if present) off – most Whirlpool machines use this inner cap, with a handle, to gain access to the center bolt
3) Remove the bolt in the center of the agitator
(Earlier models used a 7/16" hex-head steel bolt)
(Recent models use a 1/2" square drive plastic nut – use a 3/8" X 1/2" ratchet adapter)
4) On older models, grasp the bottom portion of the agitator and pull the entire ***’y off.
(Recent models allow just the top portion’s removal to access these ‘dogs’)
5) Older models – place the agitator on the floor, and, standing carefully on the bottom portion, pull the top half off. Turn it over, and the dogs will be accessible for replacement.
6) Newer model dogs can be replaced once the ratchet ***’y is removed. There are several versions currently in use, but most can be replaced without removing the bottom agitator half. All‘4-dog’versions use the 285770 kit, regardless of the cam ***’y style. (Older agitators, rarely seen now, used a pair of 2 larger dogs, which are a different part number)
7) On older versions, be careful to align the two tabs when inserting the upper ***’y back onto the agitator bottom half. When these are aligned, they will friction-fit the two halves together, making it easier to reinstall the ***’y. Handle it only by the bottom half to prevent pulling the top half off when reinstalling.
8) Lightly lubricate the agitator cap’s rubber gasket using a bit of dishwasher detergent, and push it back into place. (On the Whirlpools with an inner cap, lube that cap’s o-ring too – makes it easier to snap into place)
9) Reach around and pat yourself on the back! You just saved at least $75.00!
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main
agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Look at the section on the cabinet.
Then see the following for how to release the console and pull the cabinet.
Posted on May 07, 2010
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