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Pam are you sure it's boiling? If the Antifreeze is boiling I'd think you'd see steam coming out of your reservoir as the water expands into the reservoir, but you didn't say you see anything like that.
Of course engines get hot, that's why we have the cooling systems but it doesn't sound like it's "boiling" to me with no signs of visible steam unless your antifreeze level is really low?
If it's really boiling, and you antifreeze level is good, then your reservoir should be getting filled up with expanded hot water that goes into it to catch it when it expands.
If the water isn't going into the reservoir, then maybe your antifreeze level in the radiator is too low and you need to add antifreeze?
Best to fill the radiator with the engine cooled down. If you ever have to open the radiator when it's hot, NEVER open it with your bare hand as you could get scolded with boiling water. Instead use a big thick towel to remove the radiator cap off a hot engine. Again, if you can, just wait until the engine cools then open the radiator cap.
With the engine cool, you can fill the radiator with a 50/50 antifreeze mix. The 50/50 mix come premixed 50 percent water, and 50 percent antifreeze. So you can throw that stuff straight into the radiator.
Non mixed antifreeze needs to be mixed 50/50. Some people use 50 percent distilled water when they mix it because distilled water doesn't have the minerals in it that may get stuck in your radiator. That's being a bit picky about it though. Tap water works fine in a pinch. The other 50 percent is antifreeze. You can mix it right in the radiator too, put in a measured amount of the antifreeze, followed by the same measured amount of water. The water pump will mix it all together when you run the engine.
Put the cap back on and run the engine and if/when the water "boils" it should go into your reservoir. If it does boil in go in the reservoir then yes...your engine is getting hot and the antifreeze is boiling.
When the antifreeze boils, it's probably because your thermostat is stuck closed. That means the thermostat isn't letting water circulate through the radiator to get cooled. Thermostats are cheap...no more than $30 I'd say for most cars. Changing them is pretty easy too as they are usually right at the top of the engine. A mechanic may charge $100 to change it....but it's an easy job on most vehicles requiring just a couple sockets/socket wrench.
as you neglected to mention the make , model of the engine you will get a generic answer
most trimmers run 50: 1 and chain saws 25:1
most fuel caps have the required mix moulded into the cap
any way a mix of around 35:1 will get you out of trouble when running there should be just a trace of blue smoke
no smoke then add more oil and if clouds of smoke cut it back
This is for the car overheating/fuel overload problem....To begin with it would be a Very Big Help to know the Make,Year,Model and,mileage of the car ...also does it have an electric cooling fan or a mechanical cooling fan.?...What size engine,is it a car or a truck..?...So I can still give you a blind idea....The water disappearing to begin with plain water will evaporate and disappear..especially when it gets hot it will steam away quickly...Unless you have a proper 50/50 coolant and water combination it will always disappear....Do you have it mixed with coolant...?..Have you checked for any leaks ..?...Here is what to do..Get a gallon of pre-mixed 50/50 coolant ..I don't know what you drive so just start with a gallon..or perhaps 2 to be safe..make sure it is full..only check and add to it with cold engine..If it has a radiator cap put it directly in radiator and just add to reservoir after radiator is full...Now for the carburetor..How do you know it is over fueling..?..That would indicate it is running rich...(Too much fuel)..Did you remove one of the spark plugs and notice it dark black looking..?..Did someone tell you., Or Do you just know.?... Do you smell fuel,Are there excess amount blue or black smoke from exhaust..Or do you see fuel leaking around carburetor or smell fuel while driving ?...There could be many things wrong with the carb as well as the coolant ..The carb has adjustments"The choke could be sticking.Please send more info for carb...run engine until it gets hot,have it parked in a clean area where you can see underneath..also have a good flashlight to inspect engine while looking for leaks....then write back and tell me what you see...Please.....Brooks..
Hi, If you see white smoke coming from tail pipe then you will know it is leaking through engine.
I would suggest after you replace head gasket, that you put new radiator fluid (50/50) mix and a new thermostat in. The fluid will keep it from boiling over. Good luck.
Lightly seat both screws then open each of them one and one half turns. This is the factory setting for Japanese bikes. Clean the air filter, install a new spark plug, I assume the Sym has a two stroke engine, mix the gas ans oil 32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of two stroke engine oil per gallon of gas. NEVER use motor oil, only two stroke engine oil. Also, tighten all carb fittings such as mount bolts and clamps. Replace any rubber fittings if you see cracks. A cracked manifold will let air into the mixture which leans the mix and makes the idle rev upward.
It's possible that a little fuel vapour come out of a carb on an hot engine that has just stopped.
Does the motor starts again and runs well in higher rpm ranges? Is the stall only when idling? If so, enrich the idle fuel mix ( screw out the idle mix screws half a turn t a time )
The white smoke indicates the need for new valve guide seals. The black smoke indicates that the fuel/air mix is far too rich. Re-jet the carb to stock #137 main jet. Don't mess with the pilot jet if the bike idles okay. No other settings to mess with. Install a new stock plug ; NGK R CR9E
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Check the jet needle clip on the top of the needle. Put it in mid-range. Put the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
I just thought of somthing. You may be creating the rich mix problem yourself. See the following starting instructions. There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
The de-compression lever, always used.
The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.