Question about Pride Used Mobility Jet 3 Power Wheel Chair

6 Answers

Scooter Appears Dead

I have a Pride Jet 3 Scooter that was donated to us by the Shriners for my daughter. I just replaced both batteries because they were reading about 4 volts each. After I replaced my batteries with two new fully charged batteries, the scooter worked for about five minutes. I turned off the scooter. Adjusted the seat to fit my daughter. I tried turning the scooter back on but it would not turn on. Leds on the arm controller would not lite up. The circuit breaker and fuse both checked good. Measured voltage on both batteries. Voltage is reading about 12.8 volts dc on both batteries. I plugged the scooter into the wall outlet to charge the batteries for about 12 hours. After 12 hours, I noticed on the automatic charger the green lite was on indicating the batteries are charged (I did not notice if the green lite was on prior to charging the batteries). Also, I measured about .1 amp of current coming from the charger. When I tried turning the scooter back on using the batteries, still the same thing. Scooter would not power up using the battery voltage and the LEDs would not lite up on the arm controller. When I plugged the scooter into the wall outlet, the LEDs would lite up.

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  • ronspecker Jan 26, 2009

    I have already checked all connections.

  • ronspecker Jan 26, 2009

    All connections checked good.

  • ronspecker Jan 27, 2009

    The problem is fixed.

    Solution:



    1. I ohm checked from the negative terminal of the rear battery to the center post of the connector that goes to the arm controller. The line ohm checked good.



    2. I ohm checked from the positive terminal of the rear battery to one side of the circuit breaker. I found and tightened a loose terminal on the circuit breaker.



    3. I ohm checked from the other side of the circuit breaker to negative terminal of the front battery. Line ohm checked good.



    4. I checked the voltage of the rear and front battery. Both batteries measured about 12.8 volts.



    5. I measured the voltage from negative terminal of the rear battery to to the negative terminal of the front battery. Measured 12 volts.



    6. I ohm checked from positive terminal of the front battery to pin 2 of the connector that goes to the arm controller. Ohm checked bad.



    7. I checked the voltage from negative terminal of the rear battery to pin 2 of the connector that goes to the arm controller. The voltage should read about 25 volts. The voltage initially read about 25 volts then dropped to zero volts.



    8. While montering the voltage from negative terminal of the rear battery to pin 2 of the connector that goes to the arm controller, I moved the positive y-wire that splices with another wire that runs to pin 2 of the connector that goes to the arm controller. The voltage fluctuated from 25 VDC to 0 VDC. Repaired the splice. Scooter now powers up fine.

  • ronspecker Jan 27, 2009

    See my comments on how I isolated and fixed the problem.

    Thanks for your help.

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6 Answers

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  • 2,559 Answers

Check power connections on the control board(sounds like it may be just a loose connection)

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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Welcome to Fixya! From reading the Responses stated above and the Question that you Posted, Not one Person asked you if you have tried to get a New Charger. It seems that since you have Changed the Batteries and all and they will not Charge, The Charger would be the First thing that I would Check. Get a New Charger and I think that it Might Solve your Problem. Let me Know!

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Without an available wiring/schematic diagram best suggestion would be to check for the presence or absence of voltage from the battery terminals to the motor controller and the motor itself. Initially, limiting the diagnosis, it would appear that the main fault is between battery and the arm controller. Since the LEDs do light up on charging, this exludes the arm controller itself. Trace the B+ line and pay particular attention to connectors that have bigger wires. It is also possible that the terminals/connector pins are corroded. It is preferable to use a test light rather than a voltmeter when tracing the B+ line. The rational is a DVM or VOM may measure 12 but that would go down when there is load. A test light on the otherhand subjects the testpoint to a voltage check while providing a load.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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What your describing is bad connection to the batteries , think about it , if the batteries have a bad connection to the cables , but the cables still connect fine to the electronics , this would explain why led's work when charger is installed , becaus its connected to the electronics without the batteries inline . just like cars , someone has a new battery but won't start unless its jumped , bad connections .reasoning , well oxidation on metal or lead cable ends , loose connections . check a little closer . i think you found your answer .

J5

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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A small tip here - bigger is better. The large diameter wheels clear gaps in concrete or pavement that would hang up a skate wheel or a scooter with smaller wheels. Most electric scooters also handle well in gravel and small terrain features. We don't recommend slamming electric scooters into a curb to get over it like some people do with their bike. This could result in damage to the electric scooter. Simply Ollie up a curb and keep going.

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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Probably it is bad connection between scoter battery and electric motor. Check the contacts if they are tight and not deposited
Good Luck

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

  • Grigory Zyryanov Jan 26, 2009

    If you can have current ftom wall but not from battery you need to check the connection is tight and if there is no deposition on connectins. They can reduce the current dramatically

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