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Re: How do I make my WM 1832 CW washer ready to move?
It is best to re-install the four shipping bolts in the back of the machine during the move. If you don't have them, contact a dealer. Please don't rate, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my score. Thanks.
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First you will need to get the water out and really the only way to do that if the unit won't drain it is to open the filter to get the water out and besides that, there is probably a blockage at the filter that is preventing it from draining in the first place. You will need a lot of towels handy or a wet/dry vac at the ready!
Oh s***! If the motor turns but the drum does not, the drive shaft has broken loose from the three arms which attach it to the drum. (the part is called the "spider") To repair, remove bolt on end of shaft at center of motor. You may have to cut it with an angle grinder, but don't worry about that, because the shaft has to be replaced anyway. Remove motor rotor and stator. Remove washer front, drain hose, fill hose, shock absorbers, support springs, all wires attached to outer drum, and eventually the entire outer drum. Remove bolts between front and back halves of outer tub to allow removal of inner drum. Remove 6 bolts holding 3 arms of spider to back of inner drum. Re-assemble with new spider and new bolt for end of shaft. If you can do it in under two hours, give yourself a big pat on the back. This is about a 8.5 on a 1 - 10 difficulty scale for washer repair. Good luck Mike.
Any error codes? Pumps out OK?
Sounds to me as if the cold water inlet screen is plugged up, preventing rinse water from entering machine. Turn off the cold water to the machine and remove the cold water supply hose. Check the screen inside where the hose came off the machine. Run some water out the hose into the drain or a bucket before reconnecting to machine. Let me know if you still have problems.
when you take the panels off you will see that the barrel is suspended by springs on top and fake struts on the bottom. be careful when removing the panels. if the barrel is leaning forward it's the front struts, if it's tilting upward it's the rear. and be careful how much you load in a front loader
You should have access to the sides of the drum. Attatch foam to the either the drum or he outside casing.
The problem is caused by the drum moving too much (because of the defective dampers).
This is a cheaper fix than replacement dampers.