Urnace fan of some sort runs all the time - set on automatic
Our electric bills have been higher than if we actually heated with electric. 1900 square foot patio home (built 1997) electric bills running 250.00 gas bills 225. furnace fans (seems to be one on bottom of furnace and the other one seems to be blower fan--one or the other runs 98 percent of time. Have furnace serviced and checked twice a year Can't find manual. Please help.
Re: urnace fan of some sort runs all the time - set on...
If you have it cleaned twice a year they should be able to find this problem. It is one of two thinkgs. There is a limit switch on the fan at the top (inducer) this may be weak and causing the inducer run frequently. The other is there is another limit switch it is a main limit on the fire wall it is also weak and that is why the main blower is running it is trying to cool that limit.
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No theirs no danger in running the Emergency Heat all the time, Emergency Heat is your backup heat mode. when the Heat Pump is not working do to a malfunction or Defrost, the Emergency Heat kicks in. The Emergency Heat is usually electric heaters so your electric bill will be much higher.
Yes, electric space heaters do use more electricity than most people would expect. And, since yours "never shuts off", your electric company is going to love you. Part of your problem may be, that the heater output is not great enough to heat the area to a temperature that would automatically turn the heater off. So. therefor it runs continually, until you turn it off. Is replacing the existing heater with one that has a greater output the answer? Maybe, but it would use more electricity to maintain a higher output. Hopefully, it would heat the area quickly and turn off quickly, saving you a minimal amount on your electric bill.
For the most part, as far as efficiency is concerned, you can't beat a vent-free gas heater, fireplace or gas logs. They're 99.9% efficient and will even work if the electricity goes off. They come in Natural Gas and Propane (LPG) models and can go just about anywhere in your home, when sized properly. Most have a built-in thermostat to maintain your comfort level. And, unlike and electric heater, the heat is warm and moist ... you feel it quicker and it's more comfortable.
Hope this gave you some insight into portable electric heaters.
Heat pumps are a very efficient design when working properly. But lose efficiency the colder it gets outdoors. I usually tell people when it drops below freezing to turn the thermostat to aux or em. heat. A heat pump can remove heat from 20°f air. But not very well. More heat at 30°f air, obviously, and so on. So the colder it is outdoors, the longer it will operate to remove heat from outdoors. And then, if it can't keep up, it brings on the electric heat elements to compensate. Now you are running both outdoor and indoor heat. This is where it's inefficient and costly. Also, the outdoor will start to freeze up. This is normal unless you can see a substantial amount of ice. The heat pump will engage defrost mode, cycling on the electric heat indoors. And defrost mode is actually cooling mode! The reversing valve in the heat pump switches to cooling mode, cycles off the outdoor fan, and defrosts for a set time or temp. So now your electric heat is engaged, and your indoor coil is a COLD coil! Not hot! Very inefficient. These 2 things are why your elec bill is higher in the winter. So it makes sense to me, if the elec heat is going to be on anyway, to move the tstat to aux or em. heat, when it's going to be below freezing outdoors. This will turn off the heat pump and use elected heat only. The only down side to this is, if you don't have enough elec heat to keep you warm, you may need both heat pump and elec heat. So trial end error until you find what works. Also, have a qualified tech check the system for operation and efficiency. Hope this helps!
Well a dryer heating element does draw quite a bit of amps(that is why it is 220) but it cycles on and off & it is not an appliance that is used everyday. The first think I would do is read the electric meter and verify that it was not misread before condeming the dryer. If the electric meter reads are correct then it is possible it could be the dryer heating element shorting. How much do you actually use the dryer? Is the heating in your house electric and have you been using it? You could also have your electric company test the meter. Look at your usage of electricity for last year at the same time(it will be on the bill) and see what the number was.
Okay did you check your thermostat to see if you have the fan switch on auto? The switch must be on auto or the fan will continue to run. If the thermostat fan switch is on auto then there is a malfunction in the thermostat probably. You can go to your forced air unit and on unplug the unit. That way it will not turn on at all, because the forced air unit is controlled by the thermostat. Hope this helps.
I have one of these heaters as well. The input/output dials are thermostats.
The higher the input dial is set, the more power the heater draws during its charge cycle (ie the "on" period that is set on your time panel). Which means a higher daily ration of heat, and a bigger power bill.
The higher the output dial is set, the more quickly the heater lets the stored heat out. So the highest setting would give you most of your daily ration of heat during the "on" period but less heat for the "off period... while the lowest setting would give you a relatively constant heat output throughout the day.
The biggest wasters of electrical energy are Heat and A/c, water heaters,dryers and ranges. The more you insulate the less you have to cool or heat. If you live in a warm climate, consider installing an attic fan that runs on a thermostat or timer. During the summer allow it to run, during winter turn it off. Ceiling fans in rooms that are occupied create the illusion of being cooler, allowing the thermostat to be turned up.I'm not sure of the exact numbers but any thermostat setting on your a/c below 78 is more inefficient so try kicking the a/c up and the heat down. I'm a Florida boy so I can't tell you much about baseboard heaters. I know that anything that heats things up cost a lot in energy.
Consider installing a hot water heater timer. Commonly called a "Little Grey Box". Whenever your water heater is not actually being used it is still heating the water. A big waster. Once installed set the timer to cycle the water heater off during times when you commonly don't use it. Overnight,when your at work etc....
Somewhat antiquated, but a clothesline always uses 100% less energy than a clothes dryer. :) Short of this, try to fill the dryer all the way and make sure your dryer vent and lint trap are clear.
Microwaves draw 1/3 the energy of a range and run for 1/10 of the time. Microwave as many things as you can. In our house we have started microwaving canned veggies and boxed side dishes and such.
These are the big ones I've done at my house. A lot of the other things seemed to be more work than they are worth. Some actually end up costing you more if you don't own the house for decades.
There are many sites you can visit such as your local power company and possibly your local government pages.
Good luck. I'm in the same boat with the high power bill.
The service technician was partially correct. The compressor does not run all the time, but the fan inside does, and this actually is for efficiency. There must be something else affecting your electric bill.
There should be a switch on the thermostat.
And another switch
Normally, you just set it for heat or AC and set the fan for auto. If it isn't wired correctly, the switches won't make any difference. It will either run all of the time or not at all.