Question about Fisher and Paykel Active Smart E522B Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Fisher paykel refrigerator fault model E521T

Beeping

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I had the same problem, constant beeping. I removed the fan, tested it with a 12v power supply, worked fine. The beeping and flashing on the control unit was still happening though. I read online that the door reed switches can play up, so i decided to test this. I took a regular household magnet, the type you use to hold the kids drawings up on the fridge and held it against the door reed switch. Beeping stopped, fans kicked in, everything started working!!!! So I concluded that either my reed switch is not being tripped when the door shuts or possibly a reed switch problem? maybe not as sensitive as perhaps it should be..? either way my next port of call will be look at the seals around the door, are they stopping the door from shutting properly? I thought for a temporary measure you could get a strip magnet and put it inside the reed switch housing. It just means your door wont trigger the internal light when opening...

Posted on Feb 10, 2013

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4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: E521T fisher & paykels fridge is freezing everything

trn your thermostat right down see if that helps

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

sonicboomele
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SOURCE: What is fault code 2

The resistance of the Evaporator Sensor is outside of the normal range (> 45k ohms).

Primary Action

- Check sensor connection at controller.

Secondary Action

- Replace sensor.

Posted on Jul 11, 2011

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher Paykel Fridge. Access to fridge fan.

My fridge is 11 years old and recently had the same problem; the freezer was cooling well, but the fridge compartment was not cooling enough. I searched the Web a read most answers. I thought the fan was faulty, but in fact it wasn't (the fridge has got 2 fans, one for each compartment, and they look very similar, the part number on mine was 883340). The whole problem was a build-up of ice in the condenser unit that is at the back of the freezer compartment. What happens is that the ice blocks the passage of air the fan for the fridge compartment. This of course stops the cool air circulating to the fridge compartment. I was able to repair the fridge an it is now working perfectly. This is what I did:
1) Removed everything from the fridge, food, shelves, the lot.
2) I made sure the fan for the fridge compartment was okay, by connecting it to a 9V battery; the fan was okay. (I did this because after reading the posts I was convinced the problem was a dead fan, but you can skip this step if you can hear the fan spinning and think it is okay). To check the fan, remove by pulling the toll plastic cover that fits below the smaller plastic cover with the temperature indicator. This cover is very flexible and flimsy, start pulling from near the bottom and continue along the right side, flexing it as you go along, until it comes free (there is an insulating plastic foam moulding underneath that comes with it). As soon as you remove this cover, you will see the small fan and the plugs. Unplug the fan's connector (it has a small lock you need to press) and wire it to a standard 9 volt battery. CAUTION: observe polarity! The battery positive terminal MUST be connected to the RED wire (or the fan burns!). If the fan is bad, you can remove it very easily by inserting 2 finger inside the white plastic holder, pushing the fan in (the fan is held with 3 very elastic thin silicon bands, that do not break) ,hooking the holder from the inside edge with your fingers and pulling. It will just come out through the slot. (I did this, but then had some problem in getting it back in place. I finally left it in a near flat position, but not quite as flat as it was. Nevertheless it works okay).
3) My fan was good (I wasted a lot of time doing this), so next I shifted my attention to the freezer compartment. I then noticed that the plastic cover at the bottom of the compartment was half dislodged from its proper location, all covered on ice. I removed the cover, breaking the ice that held it with care. This cover is difficult to remove, there is a lot of pushing and pulling, so be prepared and patient; do not break it (mine came out with a small locking leg broken, but it did go back in place without any problems). I then checked the second fan, that is on this cover; it was also okay.
4) As soon as I removed the cover I saw the problem...ice everywhere! I reached for the house hair drier and after about one hour it was all gone. Note that most of the problem ice is behind the condenser (small radiator looking aluminum frame, that should be left alone. Do not move, push or twist it).
5) once all the ice was removed, I the carefully pushed the radiator back in place at the bottom of the compartment (it just fits and had been displaced by the growth of ice), and replaced the plastic cover.
6) and voila! my fridge was again working perfectly. About 3 hours flat.

Posted on Mar 01, 2012

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1 Answer

Fisher paykel freezer it only has audible alarms and i dont know what its trying to tell me


Looking for specific answers? Provide more details.

  1. Model number of freezer will help.
  2. Does alarm beep when door is closed?
  3. Does alarm beep when door is open?
  4. How many beeps? The amount of beeps will indicate the fault code. From there, more information can be provided.

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If it is beeping, it has a problem other than the beep that needs to be addressed. This is probably outside the skill set of the average person.

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Here is a video which may help you, there are also useful comments

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I would reset the module. Open the fridge door, keep the freezer door closed, then press the mode button (located on the display panel. This will re initiate the electronics

Jun 07, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR...

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close freezer door, open fridge door and press the mode button

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