The problem could be a attributed to a broken motor coupling and/or defective gear case (transmission). Since the motor coupling is the easier of the two repairs and least expensive, I would recommend checking the motor coupling first. Here's the steps required to check and replace a bad motor coupling:
Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on
which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the
top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are
facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a ***** under each
end cap that You will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, You will need to slide a
putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up.
There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the
back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small
plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat
blade *****driver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top.
With the *****driver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back
of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on
the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip
under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the
casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward
slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and
7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the
washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE
DRAIN HOSES in place
and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a
gentle pry of a *****driver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released
from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the
motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.
8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care
not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the
Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and
lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a *****driver. This will
release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove.
(WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you
release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out
fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in
place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.
9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the motor Coupling is directly behind
it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting
the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the
other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. Often, the plastic tines shear off, the rubber bushing rips, or the center hole on the drive shaft rounds out causing the coupling to slip. Replace the coupling if this is the case. You may have to use a
*****driver to remove the old pieces. Make sure you replace BOTH halves of the
coupling even if one side appears good.
10. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a
hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the
coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit
the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you
place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember
that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and
that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.
11. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to
the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the
other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs
will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line
of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so
that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you
can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You
will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top
bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.
12. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.
13. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to
get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install
14. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case
under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through
the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the
washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on
the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not
get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in
15. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and
reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the
washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the
washer. It will snap back into to place.
16. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not
reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
17. Reinstall console.
I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and
follow the steps as written. A new
motor coupling should cost less that than $20. Post back if you need further assistance.
Mar 09, 2008 |
Estate TAWX700JQ Top Load Washer