Question about Roper RES7646KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer will not start, but does have power. The light and heating element are working, but the drum and blower are not functioning? Door switch is working properly, and there were not any previous problems before the dryer just stopped working. Drum belt is fine. Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Conor

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  • Anonymous Nov 17, 2007

    My dryer, Whirlpool,LEN2000KQ1,has power, but would not start, so replaced the door switch and the dryer worked for a few minutes when it finished the cycle it wouldn't start again. Is there any other start switch on the dryer That I can check?

    Thank you, Denise

  • Joel Underwood Dec 19, 2007

    GE electric dryer just stopped working. The door light works. A couple weeks ago the timer went out & I wonder if the dryer was left on high heat & forgotten about & the motor burned out. Any suggestions?

    joel

    granpyoel@hotmail.com

  • Anonymous Feb 06, 2008

    dryer was working perfect, took last load of clothes out of dryer and now it wont start

  • Anonymous Feb 17, 2008

    Dryer will not start. Checked the breaker switch and that was not the problem. It was working yesterday, but will not start today. Any suggestions? Thank you.

  • mickenn Feb 24, 2008

    Mine has the same problem, and does hum when you set the timer with no need to hit the start button. Any suggestions? We think it is the start capcitor.

  • beerbellybud Mar 19, 2008

    I do not have the same model number but I do have a Roper dryer division of whirlpool. My Roper dryer wont start, it worked fine yesterday. When pressing the start switch I get no hum or buzz acts like its unplugged. I have checked the breakers OK, checked for 240 at the outlet OK, and I have 240 at power cord block on dryer also checked for 120 at neutral and ground all is OK,checked dryer door switch it ohms and has 120 going to it, the start switch ohms at the two blue wires with a flicker of ohms at the pink and black wire, there is 120 at the blue wire going to the start switch after pressing the switch power passes through to the other blue wire, just a flicker of voltage momentarily at the pink and black wire, Checked thermal fuses and get ohms. Not sure what to check next.

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The components to check include the motor's start switch & capacitor, if so equipped, the push to start switch, & all associated wiring. Check to see if motor & drum turn freely. Does the motor hum when starting is attempted?

Posted on Jul 15, 2007

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1 Answer

Dryer will not start. Heater element comes on full. Door switch ok. Drum will turn manually.


Not sure about your unit but I believe that it has a thermal fuse (start fuse) located near the blower wheel,ohm it out to see if its good.

Jul 31, 2015 | Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer not heating up


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Apr 15, 2011 | GE DCVH515GF Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer has power and functions but will not heat. Checked all modes with same result.


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the blower motor to make sure it is not faulty, also check the blower fan blade to make sure it is not broken or plugged with lint.
Check the Door Switch.
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
If it overheats the dryer will not operate properly.
It's located on the blower housing.
It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
You can test it with an Ohm meter/continuity checker, if no continuity,
replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website, it will give you an idea what you are in for:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Jan 15, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity...

1 Answer

Won't start, breaker is good, power is getting to dryer, light is out.


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the blower motor to make sure it is not faulty, also check the blower fan blade to make sure it is not broken or plugged with lint.
Check the Door Switch.
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
If it overheats the dryer will not operate properly.
It's located on the blower housing.
It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
You can test it with an Ohm meter/continuity checker, if no continuity,
replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website, it will give you an idea what you are in for:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm

Jan 15, 2011 | Maytag PYE4558A Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer won't stay going after button is released and the door safety button is still functioning, also the heating element is still working.


This is what is probably going on. There are two parts in the motor that cause the drum to rotate.
One of them is "start" winding. It literally starts the drum's rotation. Once the drum motor has started the drum to move. The second portion of the motor, known as the "run" winding takes over and keeps the drum turning. When the Drum winding burns out. The same symptom is caused when the switch attached to the motor is also damaged. In your case, although this is rare. I think it may be the switch.
The reason being is that the motor has a combination switch that also connects one side to the heating element. In a nutshell, If you get the dryer not continuing to turn AND the heating element stays on. There is a problem with the switch.
If you get the heating element going on when you push the start button but turns off when you release the button. The problem is the motor having a burned out run winding. Either way, it is less labor intensive to replace the motor when you take it out. Doing it switch is not easy. Hope this helps. If not write back to me and we can continue.
Best, Mark

Dec 28, 2010 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer powers up but won't start - smell of electrical burning. Is it the motor bushes? zanussi TC7103W


Electric dryers usually have a motor with a switch that prevents the heating element from being powered until the motor is spinning. In series with this are limit switches to prevent overheating if there is too much lint or too little air flow around the heating element. Also, the motors are induction or brushless. So the smell is coming from the heating element burning off some lint nearby as it reaches the high limit temperature and shuts off. This can be due to two conditions if we can assume the motor is running (has a switch that is closing to power the heating element). The most likely condition is that the drive belt is off the pulley or broken and the drum is not turning. You will be able to tell this easily by sounds or by opening the door to see the drum slowing down. If that's not it, examine the blower which forces air through the drum. There are a lot of variations, so look for air intake and drum exhaust ports that can be clogged with a sock, lint, etc.

Dec 12, 2009 | Zanussi TC7114W Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer spins but it is not getting hot or blowing air. I think replacing the heating element and/or thermal fuse will solve the problem but what about the blowing air?


WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOOR THERE IS A SLOT WHERE THE DOOR SWITCH MAKES CONTACT TO LET THE DRYER RUN. TAKE A PLASTIC OBJECT AND HOLD THE DOOR SWITCH IN AND START THE DRYER DO YOU SEE THE ELEMENT GLOWING IF YOU DO YOUR ELEMENT IS NOT BAD THE BELT THAT TURNS THE DRUM SHOULD TURN THE BLOWER TOO.IF YOU SEE TWO BELTS ON YOUR UNIT GET6 BACK TO ME

Aug 09, 2009 | Roper RES7646KQ Electric Dryer

3 Answers

Dryer wont start


First I would check the door switch I could have broken off or quit working if that is ok then there is a white thermal fuse on the blower housing behind the back panel check with a ohms meter to see if it is good it has two wires going to it

Mar 30, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Commercial dryer model #MDE26CSACW won't start


near fan blower ,had a fuse white by pass than try if work change it than clean the vent

Nov 13, 2017 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Replace thermal cut out units


This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.

The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.

CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.

Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:


1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.

5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.


Dryer Does Not Run At All:


Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.


These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.

May 19, 2008 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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