Question about Bose Lifestyle 5 Music Center Ps3-2-1 Acoustimass Subwoofer & Cables 2 Speakers

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Is it possible to wire my Bose PS3-2-1 II subwoofer with my Onkyo TX-SR 309 receiver without the actual home theatre system? How; what wires, media cables etc. would I need?

A friend of mine gave the woofer, once they moved from the states as they had no use for it... the only problem was that no other parts of the system can be found. Was just wondering whether it possible to hook up this with my existing system.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: No power to the Acoustimass bass

Hi, have you checked the internal fuse in your sub?

Posted on Dec 22, 2007

quang123
  • 107 Answers

SOURCE: Bose Lifestyle 50 - connection to a non-bose amplifier

The 2 system are completely different your is low level input and its is having only 2 input L and R when those signal they get inside your sub it process through an DSP ( Digital Signal Processor ) and become 5 output to yours satellite cube speakers
The AM6 or 10 are high level input connected direct to any output of any AMP from those signal they convert down to low frequency for sub woofer

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: connecting ipod to bose system

Look at the back of your 3-2-1 to see if the auxillary is a single or dual output. You will need that information when you go to Radio Shack, or you can also get at the Apple store, a connector from Gigaware that connects to the ipod. It was only $15-$20,

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

dunnbiker
  • 8546 Answers

SOURCE: how to hook up bose series 2 eq to onkyo tx sr 875 receiver.?

I wrote most of this for a different receiver, but if you account for minor differences to your receiver this will work just fine.

There's good news and bad news. The bad news you need a separate amp because a multichannel receiver with Bose 901's attached as recommended for a standard stereo receiver will only sound right in STEREO on stereo analog material. The other speakers around the room are not designed to receive its Active Equalization and if you engage your Tape Monitor you will NOT BE ABLE TO HEAR DIGITAL sources at all. Tape Monitor is for analog stereo material only and on modern AV receivers it disables any digital inputs so you really can't use the Tape Monitor circuit or attached devices for modern digital sources. However, you can still employ the various DSP options to spread 2-channel analog source material around the room. I do.

The good news. I have a setup similar to what you want to do and it works great! I see on the SR875 there are Pre Audio OUTS. This is easy.

A separate stereo amp for the 901's was my solution. I run a Carver AV-406 (5-channel amp) for my 901's in Front, 2 Subwoofers and the Rear Surround channel, with the Active EQ between the receiver Front L&R Outputs and the 901's amp channels. My receiver controls everything and just drives the Center and Surround speakers.

You could get by with just a stereo amp for the 901's. A Carver M-200 is a good efficient amplifier that would have you cooking just fine (2x100W). Run it with the Active EQ between the receiver Front L&R Pre-Outputs ** and the 901's amp channels.

** Front Pre Out >>> Bose EQ Amplifer IN, then
Bose EQ Amplier OUT >>> new amplifier IN.


Attach the 901's to the new amp, set its volume to Max and run through your receiver's speaker level setup.

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: How to use the Bose Acoustimass Subwoofer with other receiver...

I received a broken Bose acoustimass subwoofer... and by broken I mean the built in amp part didn't work. I don't have the module to control it either... and I wasn't given the unusual power cord so I couldn't even test it.
This is made in 1991, so I suspect it might be a series 1. It's in a white rectangular wooden box with a white plastic amp controller section up the top. It might be similar to the one you have.
Anyway, there was a little flap at the very top in the center and I removed a screw, then gently levered off the volume/bass/tone dials off with a flat screwdriver. I was then able to lever the entire top plastic outer box. I ended up just removing all of the circuit boards, heat-sinks etc. I won't go into the details but its a simple matter of undoing whatever screws you find and unclipping any joining cables between boards.
The power supply is mounted in a recessed plastic box that kind of sits inside the top of the box... I removed the power supply from the plastic box and set it aside.
Eventually I had the entire top section clear with a stereo cable coming out of the woofer. I snipped off the white connector at the end of the cable (that used to plug into one of the boards) and hung it out the top. I then replaced the recessed plastic box (that had the power supply) so that the top of the box was sealed again. I put the heat-sink over that just because it looked nicer (there are no electronics for it to absorb heat from). I made sure everything they were screwed down properly (so no undue vibration).
Basically I have now taken out all the electronic components leaving the driver in a sealed box, with the stereo cable still hanging out. I stripped some plastic off the ends of the stereo cable to expose the wires and attached a long stereo lead to the wires. I put the other end of the lead into the speaker out of my home stereo amplifier.
I started playing some music and it actually had quite a lot of bass. It wasn't too great at mid-range or high-end but it's not really supposed to as it's meant to be part of a 2.1/5.1/7.1 system. It will be good as part of any surround sound system.

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

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