Question about Mitsubishi WS-55513 55" Rear Projection HDTV

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Ws55513 dm board coil section L9B21 broke off. where can I find another

Section L9B21&22 of the dm board the tiny coils 1 broke off. I have seen web sits for them but I do not know which to get because there is no info for these little things. And mitsubishi is no help.

Posted by on

  • Brad Sherrill Jan 20, 2013

    Well um on the DM Board for a WS55513 55" Mitsubishi ptv V23 chassis there are x2 small black squares L9B21 & 22. I know they are coils of some type but they have no info on them and Mitsubishi say they have no schematics for them but they are there. if you hold the board and you look at the capacitors directly across on the oppisite side of board is where you find what I'm talking about. iwould put a pic on but for some reason my computer isn't letting me. I hope this helps and thanks for looking into this.

  • Brad Sherrill Feb 11, 2013

    any body have anything? any ideas?

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6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: WS-65517 mitsubishi

Download Chris@ChrisAndNat.com ............T.

Posted on Nov 09, 2007

premtech
  • 934 Answers

SOURCE: Mitsubishi ws-55513 green flashing light issue

I would asssume that the four cap replacement you're referring too is in the power supply of the DM module. (The large silver looking box on the left looking at the back of the TV)..
You can unplug that module from the signal board and remove it. Open the cover and you should find 4 16v caps in the power supply. If they look buldged chances are they are the failure. If not you might want to take an ESR meter to them to confirm they're okay and move on... In the back of that module is a small vertical board called the E2P module. Unplug it from the DM and plug the DM back into the signal board. If it powers up your picture might not be in the best alignment but you've identified the problem - just replace the E2P module.
If none of this works you're going to start getting into some greater technical requirements - but let's cover that when you get that far...
Bill

Posted on Dec 28, 2007

  • 2315 Answers

SOURCE: Mitsubishi TV parts: IC

Check HERE for the DM power board.

Posted on Mar 04, 2008

Slinteriors
  • 8617 Answers

SOURCE: green blinking light problem too. on a Mitsubishi WS65869

You can go to this link they have the kits with the high temp higher volt capacitors and complete detailed instructions on how to do the repair.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

Posted on Jun 03, 2008

  • 668 Answers

SOURCE: Mits WD52725 DM Board

Dan,
I would causion removing the DM board in this unit. It is buried and the real problem is that there is many capasitors across all the boards of the chassi assy that could go bad. Replacing the ones on the DM will not guarantee fixing the dreadful green Blinking
LED. The only way I have known it to be fixed properly is to actually send the chassi assy. to Mitsubishi for them to refurb it. The negitive thing is that it is exspensive and they will only refurb it through aAuthorized Misubishi Repair Facility.
Cost would probly be around 800.00 to 900.00.
I know it is not what you wanted to hear,
but that is mt take on it.
Hope this helps,
Skyassoc
But it is the

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

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Diverter valve on Hotpoint FFA70 recieves no power, Fridge ok


Bonjour..Your system check (hot cold) is correct. Generally all new refrig/freezers cool only the freezer & bleed cold air off to cool the refrigerator. Most diverter/airflow dampers I have seen are mechanically operated for simplicity & to keep costs down. I would unload freezer and pull the panel off where you see the fan mounted. Go slow, don't drop any screws.You may not get them back. Look at the drain pan under the evap. coil. If it has ice that is built up in layers. Suspect the defrost termination thermostat. If the evap coil is clogged with heavy frost, suspect 1 the defrost timer and 2 the defrost heaters mounted on the evap. coil. Let me know how you make out.

Parts http://www.repairclinic.com/Refrigerator-Parts?s=t-Hotpoint+FFA70-%3d%3da4&z=50

7_11_2012_6_53_37_am.jpg

Jul 02, 2012 | Hotpoint FFA70 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

Tip

Maytag Side X Side Refrigerator adaptive defrost check



To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top
about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull
downward and foreword , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4"
screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both
light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these
5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive
defrost board ( adc ) . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white
box will be seen . Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug
going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then
another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert
one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will send power directly thru the defrost bi-metal ( thermostat ) AND
heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , if you have a clamp on amp meter , clamp around the jumper wire while pushing in the light switch ( to turn off the light to get only defrost amps ) which should be 3.5 or above indicating bi metal and heater are good and adc is bad , OR , wait about 3-5 min and
look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost
heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater
.If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the
plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bi-metal are good . If
you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost
board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and
reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer
panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black
element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace them to the top of the coils
and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good ( should show continuity ) . If the element IS
good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils .
This is the defrost thermostat ( bi-metal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good .
If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the
bi-metal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bi-metal
already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part
can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bi-metal and the top plastic
" cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bi-metal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its
designed function .

on May 27, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Vertical line


If this is a CRT TV then the failure of the following must be checked as it is the failure of the horizontal section..
1. check the soldering on the horiozontal coils, the linerity coils and the deflection coils.
2. Failure of the pin-amp section. the linearity section.
3. failure of the horizontal coils.
4. Open reisitors/ shorted or weak capacitors in the sections .
6. Faulty IC - horizontal/deflection circuit/ frequency and drive IC.

Aug 30, 2011 | Televison & Video

2 Answers

Does not go into defrost mode. refrigerator section becomes hot


The defrost is not working.This happens due to the evaporator coil in the inner section of freezer is got blocked by ice .--------

Try manual defrost reset procedure: ----

First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take near to 4 hours to get run in its proper cooling cycle. Then check, if the problem returns again. If the same problem occurs then it's defrost problem. The defrost board and the defrost thermostat/heater is not functioning properly and it has to be checked and replaced.

--------------------

The procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the refrigerator section and the refrigerator section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. Now this problem which you mentioned. In this problem the freezer thaws, this happens if the thermostat is not functioning or the heater is not heating. Then the ice starts getting collected on the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil is at the internal section of freezer. If too much ice gets collected then this ice blocks the fan in the freezer section from functioning and this blocks the damper section with ice getting collected there. This all procedure is controlled by the defrost board of the unit.

-----------------

So first try reset procedure.If that is not helping then defrost assembly parts are to be checked and replaced.The defrost thermostat is located in the freezer section beside the evaporator coil.The defrost heater is located in the freezer section beside the evaporator coil.And the defrost control board is located in the fridge section.-------------

you can get the required parts from online sites like:---

www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site.---------This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Feb 21, 2011 | Whirlpool GS6NBEXR Side by Side...

1 Answer

Over the past couple of weeks, my Side-By-Side Refrigerator freezer has not been running properly. It thaws out for a day or two, then it starts freezing again for a couple more days.


The defrost is not working.This happens due to the evaporator coil in the inner section of freezer is got blocked by ice .--------

Try manual defrost reset procedure: ----

First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take near to 4 hours to get run in its proper cooling cycle. Then check, if the problem returns again. If the same problem occurs then it's defrost problem. The defrost board and the defrost thermostat/heater is not functioning properly and it has to be checked and replaced.

--------------------

Check the damper if there is too much water collected in the damper then press the damper and remove the water collected in it. The procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the refrigerator section and the refrigerator section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. Now this problem which you mentioned. In this problem the freezer thaws, this happens if the thermostat is not functioning or the heater is not heating. Then the ice starts getting collected on the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil is at the internal section of freezer. If too much ice gets collected then this ice blocks the fan in the freezer section from functioning and this blocks the damper section with ice getting collected there. This all procedure is controlled by the main defrost board of the unit. Now if the damper is not got blocked with too much water or if the ice is not got collected on the damper area then check the evaporator coils. If there is too much ice got collected on the coils, then takes a hair dryer and melt the collected ice. Then see if the problem returns again. But if there is little bit ice collected on the coils and fan is running properly then it's not a problem. In that case main board is faulty and it has to be replaced. The main defrost board is working but its not controlling the functions as required so the freezer thaws after couple of days.

---------

You can get required parts from sears part direct online site or from repairclinic.com site.

--------

This will help. Thanks. Helpmech.

-----------------

So first try reset procedure.If that is not helping then defrost assembly parts are to be checked and replaced.The defrost thermostat is located in the freezer section beside the evaporator coil.The defrost heater is located in the freezer section beside the evaporator coil.And the defrost control board is located in the fridge section.-------------

you can get the required parts from online sites like:---

www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site.---------This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Feb 21, 2011 | Amana ASD2625K Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

What causes ice build up on inside freezer coils


To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top
about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull
downward and foreword , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4"
screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both
light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these
5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive
defrost board ( adc ) . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a
white
box will be seen . Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug
going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then
another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert
one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will send
power directly thru the defrost bi-metal ( thermostat ) AND
heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , if you have a clamp on amp
meter , clamp around the jumper wire while pushing in the light switch ( to turn off the
light to get only defrost amps ) which should be 3.5 or above indicating bi metal and heater
are good and adc is bad , OR , wait about 3-5 min and
look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost
heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater
.If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the
plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bi-metal are good . If
you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost
board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and
reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer
panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black
element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace them to the top of the coils
and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good ( should show
continuity ) . If the element IS
good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils .
This is the defrost thermostat ( bi-metal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good .
If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the
bi-metal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bi-metal
already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part
can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bi-metal and the top plastic
" cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bi-metal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed
its
designed function

Aug 25, 2010 | Maytag MSD2756GES Side by Side...

2 Answers

My Maytag refrigerator is not getting cold enough. The bottom (freezer) section is working great, but the top (refrigerator) section is fairly warm....still cool but not cold. It was noticeably colder a...


I had the same problem and had to change the control board, the technician showed me how to defrost manually to keep the fridge cold until he could get the new control board and change it.


Open the refrigerator door push in the light button to turn off the light inside the fridge at the top (keep it pushed in) then push the left button of the refrigerator temperature setting 3 times and let go of the light button the letter "d" will be displayed. Push the left button one more time number "5" will be displayed, push the left button a third time and you will hear noises this should start the defrost process. Wait a while then open the freezer and check the coils on the back wall of the freezer, the ice should have melted. Wait a couple of hours and your fridge should start getting cold again.

Aug 10, 2010 | Maytag MBF2556HEW / MBF2556HEB /...

2 Answers

Coils in freezer are coated with ice, not allow air flow to get to refrigerator. I think the defroster is not working in the freezer coils, but welcome advice.


To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top
about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull
downward and foreword , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4"
screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both
light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these
5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive
defrost board ( adc ) . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white
box will be seen . Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug
going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then
another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert
one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass
the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bi-metal ( thermostat ) AND
heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , if you have a clamp on amp meter , clamp around the jumper wire while pushing in the light switch ( to turn off the light to get only defrost amps ) which should be 3.5 or above indicating bi metal and heater are good and adc is bad , OR , wait about 3-5 min and
look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost
heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater
.If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the
plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bi-metal are good . If
you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost
board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and
reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer
panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black
element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace them to the top of the coils
and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good ( should show continuity ) . If the element IS
good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils .
This is the defrost thermostat ( bi-metal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good .
If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the
bi-metal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bi-metal
already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part
can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bi-metal and the top plastic
" cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bi-metal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its
designed function .

Jun 13, 2010 | Maytag 25.6 cu. ft. Wide-By-Side...

1 Answer

Coil is broken. can it be soldered together?


Good day,
As a rule copper/steel yes. Aluminum no. However, if aluminum, wait a while, some guy may be weaving magic out there as I post this.
Small holes can be epoxied, but your describing a complete break.
2 brass unions and a new section of pipe might be made to work, but the ferrules in the union are copper, and copper and aluminum don't like each other, eventually leading to failure.

Nov 04, 2009 | Frigidaire Freezer FFU1212D

1 Answer

Water damage


Did you take insurance out on the phone? If so they should replace the phone with a new 1 even if it water damage.

May 22, 2009 | Cell Phones

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