Pressure cleaner stops running

Ream out the orifices where the pressure switch tubing connects, these plug of often and need reaming out t5o clear the obstruction.

most commonly found problem relates to an electronic component heating up and shutting down. Have you checked to confirm there is fuel pressure when the vehicle shuts off. Is the check engine light on. Have you checked codes ? I suggest hooking up a fuel pressure gauge and letting vehicle run till it shuts off while monitoring the fuel pressure. If you loose fuel pressure, next step is to confirm there power going to the pump, if there is power going to the pump with no fuel pressure replace pump. Another suggestion would be to check for spark when vehicle stops running to eliminate an ignition problem. good luck

All airless sprayers are on-demand pumps. The two settings are prime and spray. When it is set to prime, the pump will draw liquid from the bucket below and pump it out the side tube and will never stop until you switch it back to spray. When set to spray, the pump will run until the pre-set pressure is reached, then stop. As soon as you start spraying, the pump will run until a few seconds after you stop spraying. Tip size and pressure setting will affect how long after you stop spraying the pump will run. A large tip and high pressure will cause the pump to run longer after you stop spraying.

probrably injectors failing

Hey Jim why havent you replaced the Ign module?It sounds typical of it. Good job checking fuel pressure BTW most dont.

Paint sprayer.
Flip lever down to prime > paint comes out small plastic hose.
Flip lever up to put pressure on spray line.

Problem: prime keeps running and spray line never gets pressure.

Future solution:
You did not clean sprayer very well last time, or it is rusted. When cleaning, run full 5 gallons of cleaner through machine twice.
You should fill spray line and pump with kerosene if machine sits idle more than few days.
We all forget.

Good news: you have prime. If machine doesn't prime, you probably have to disassemble.

More good news: There are two steel balls inside pump. Tap top one with hammer to loosen. Keep machine running. Keep lever up. Start tapping top one. Tap a little harder... keep tapping ... sometimes it will not free up ... take apart pipe and see if you can nudge ball loose >> be careful not to scratch anything... the sprayer is high pressure and all parts have to fit

This sounds like overheating. These small generators don't have overheating protection, but if a low oil pressure or low oil level is present it may be the reason for stopping.

Check the oil level in the starting conditions and again when it stops. It may become under the "stop" level and after some time the precipitated oil has reached the "start" level. The same may be with oil viscosity and oil pressure.

Try to add some oil or change the oil with bigger viscosity.

A power (pressure) washer generates too much pressure. It will bend the fins on the tubes.
Always isolate the power from the unit prior to opening the unit to perform any work. Remember that there can be both 220 and 110 volts present (main and thermostat), so be sure that you have it off.
For the outside unit, appliance parts supply stores sell a chemical that you can spray on with a garden sprayer, and then hose with a garden hose and spray nozzle from the inside.
For the inside coils, you can get good results with coil cleaner from one of the "home hardware" stores, or from an appliance parts supply store. It is in an aerosol can. This is sprayed on the coils and also hosed off.
One must be very cautious when using these chemicals, taking precautions to protect your eyes and exposed skin, as these chemicals are caustic or acid in nature and can easily burn your eyes. They also foam up in between the tubes/fins and on the surface, displacing the dirt.
For inside coils, you can remove the outside layer of debris with a medium brush and then spray. Fin brushes and combs are also made for this purpose. I usually follow this with another brushing and spray again, then wash down from the inside. Here again you need to be careful. The aim is to remove the build up, and flush off the chemical residue, without damaging your coils. It usually takes me at least two cans of cleaner for an inside coil. I drag a garden hose in the house and wash the coil down in bursts, to avoid running the collection tray over onto the floor. Outside coils are usually clean enough after one mixed container in the garden sprayer. Some aerosol sprays are deemed OK for both the inside and outside coils, and I have used them satisfactorily. Again, about two cans is what I usually need. The key, in my mind, is to apply and flush thoroughly from the inside towards the outside.
Hope that this was helpful,

--W/D--

If the fuel filter is dirty it will settle when you turn the truck off. When it runs for a few minutes the debris in the filter will get sucked into the screen and stop the fuel from getting through. If it was a starter or coil, it would not start at all.