It runs fin then when I connect sprayer hose it runs for about 15 min then shuts down.I can start it again and the same thing happens.There is a steel ball and spring that goes in to the quick connect where does it go exactly and what does it do.THANKS MATT
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Re: pressure cleaner stops running
The ball and spring go in the soap inlet valve. It closes this valve when the pump is on high pressure. Your engine may need a tune up, oil, or the idle adjusted.
Choke problem. Sounds like your carb needs a real good cleaning
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Sounds like a bad unloader valve. Do a search on "pressure washer unloader valve symptoms". When they are faulty there will either be little pressure or it will stop an engine abruptly. The engine will not just die down as it you were turning it off. It would stop cold.
Recently I have a similar problem, with a easy solution, just don't push the accelerator nob all the way, leave a 1/4 before reach full power. Apparently some times there is a bad calibration an make the carburetor over flow and lost power.
Not enough water VOLUME and pressure to supply the pump with a steady flow of water. Water is cavatating (adding air to the water) and the piston is heating up and jambing. Try using a larger size hose diameter and a shorter hose to supply the pump.
If your pressure washer works like ours, it has a T connection. A plastic hose comes off the T and goes into the bucket of cleaner Pressure from the hose creates suction across the T and this draws cleaner into pressure hose The plastic hose from cleaner connects to a small brass ball valve on the T The ball valve clogs up or changes over time and cleaner will not draw up into the pressure hose. We would replace the valve stem I don't know if they sell the little replacement parts like they used to
Finally we had so much trouble. We started applying our chemical with a pump-up sprayer. For us, it was cheaper, and the work went faster. We put one guy on the pump up sprayer And then another guy came behind him on the washer.
The reason it stops spraying might be a clogged gun, hose or nozzle-tip.
The reason for pressure buildup killing the engine might be a stuck unloader valve in the pump.
While you are checking each component of the "output" side, spray some penetrating lube into the "input" side of the pump (where the garden hose connects) and let it be working on the unloader valve.
Fix the spraying problem first:
Start at the nozzle and verify that it is open by using low-pressure air. Clean or replace as needed. Next check the hose (with nozzle and gun unhooked) and finally the gun/trigger mechanism.
All must be clear and open to perform correctly.
Next, pour a few ounces of power steering fluid (or similarly LIGHT oil) into the garden hose, attach it to the pump and turn on the water supply.
Leave the "output" hose, gun, etc. UNHOOKED and point the output port of the pump (where the high-pressure hose connects) towards a vacant, safe area.
Startup the engine and allow the oil in the garden hose to work its way thru. (About 1 -3 minutes of run-time.) Shut it down and attach the high-pressure hose.
Hope this solves the problem!
The pump might be binding against the motor, causing the pump to overheat and temporarilly "seize up" and shut the engine off.
After cooling down for a brief period (5~10 mins) the engine can usually be re-started, but the overheating problem will keep coming back.
This happens when the pump either wasn't seated against the engine properly during it's initial instalation, or the pump housing wasn't machined properly and the PTO shaft is trying to drive the pump at a slight angle = excessive friction = overheating.
1) Loosen the bolts that mount the pump to the engine just enough so that the pump can be wiggled slightly.
2) With the engine power switch in the "OFF" position, slowly pull the recoil starter rope so that the engine / pump completes about two revolutions. This helps to align the pump surface with the engine.
3) Lightly snug the pump mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then slowly pull the recoil starter rope again to ensure that the pump isn't binding.
4) Finish tightening the pump mounting bolts in the criss-cross pattern (approx. 21 foot pounds torque).
The entire process should take you roughly about 10 mins from start to finish.
If this doesn't remedy your problem, then try running the engine for 20 mins with the pump COMPLETELY removed so as to isolate the components.
Leaving the hose on shouldn't cause a problem so don't panic. It sounds like you could just have a dirty nozzle. Try sticking a pin or something in the end of the nozzle (machine not running) and giving it a clear out. also if it is a two peice gun, split it and tap the squirting part on something clean like a workbench to clear any debris that might have got in there.