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Zoeller upflush stinks up the whole house with sewage fumes when u flush. Replaced toilet wax seals 3 times. Tightened bolts on tank . Checked for gaskets sucked in or broke . Nothing works

10 year old upflush

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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djchillsnyc
  • 151 Answers

SOURCE: have to flush 2 or 3 times to empty toilet bowl

hello, this is a standard toilet you will need to inspect the flapper that is the rubber flap that holds the water up in the tank it works when you pull the lever it pulls the chain upward and lets the water flow if this flapper is old it may not stay up long enough for the water to flow. open the tank top and flush the toilet see if this flapper is staying up long enough and giving the tank enough time to empty if not change this rubber flapper its inexpensive part.
if this is not the reason then you need to adjust your water filler valve there should be a small screw on top of the pivoting float arm
if you have to adjust it for the water limit line inside the tank this will be the proper amount of water needed to flush once completely

also check that the chain lenth on the pull lever is not pulling the flapper down quicker than its supposed to,

try this let me know your results
hope it helps

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

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  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Toto Toilet - no water flow to refill tank after flush

Remove the tank lid and look at the fill valve. Is it a yellow valve?
This fill valve is common on the Toto Toilets and can easliy plug with debrie.

They can be disassmbled and cleaned. however, I usually just replace the valve with Fluid Master Fill valve.
You will also want to check the water coming into the toilet by turning off the water that supplies the toilet and disconnecting the water supply line. After removing the water supply line turn on the water at the valve to make sure that the water is flowing properly. Check the supply line also to make sure it is not plugged.
Be sure and place a small container to catch the water that will come from the valve. A towell will also help from making too much of a mess.
If the Supply line and the valve are clear the problem is in the fill valve.
The G-Max system denotes the Flushiing system which is a 3" flapper that allows the water from the tank to flow into the bowl quicker.
Good Toilets!

sanray

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Toilet Refills Every 15-Minutes

I have minute amount of leakage into the bowl causing mold to grow. I believe that it may be the rubber seal for the flapper body to the porcelain.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: Sani-Plus

float switch of level control is defective. replace same with new part

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

projdoc
  • 2237 Answers

SOURCE: toilet wont flush completely. it may take 4 times

there is no air release. the vent must be clogged somewhere. you can take a hose up there and see if it drains all the way or floods over. since the tub drain has a trap and the toilet itself is a trap, there has to bee a good amount of air pressure coming up without a release. i would say an obstruction. possibly at the junction of the main and the vent.

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

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2 Answers

How to fix a new toilet flange so it will not leaked down onto the drain pipe


Hi Connie.

Hoping I'm visualizing this properly. The stand pipe under the house is generally pointing upward and has a flange on it. The toilet will have an indent on the bottom that is somewhat larger that the flange diameter. Then there will be a wax ring that is seated around the neck of the flange right before the toilet is placed down on top of it. The general process is that a new wax ring is placed, the toilet is lifted and, as carefully as possible, lowered straight down over the floor bolts. Once it makes contact on the floor, the toilet is gently rotated a small bit clockwise and counterclockwise to make sure that there is a good solid contact with the wax. The toilet is set square to the wall and, hopefully, with the floor bolts centered on the slots. Someone sits down carefully on the toilet to put pressure on the wax and seal it (this should not be done on a cold day, as the wax may not flow, and may even crack and leave a gap).

From what I saw you write, my questions would be whether the wax gasket was installed. if not, pull the toilet, obtain a gasket, and try again. if one was installed, were the remains of the old gasket thoroughly cleaned away from flange and toilet bottom? if not, the old wax may have cause uneven flow/sealing with the new ring (too much wax in the space).

You can also check that the leak isn't coming from higher up, like at the join from bowl to tank. If it's leaking there, depending on your toilet model, it might leak once the flapper is lifted in the tank, flow down the back outside of the toilet, and down under the house. In that case, it could be a bad seal, or the tank-to-toilet bolts not having been tightened.

Hoping this gives you some ideas

D

Dec 01, 2015 | Home

1 Answer

I have just bought and installed the newbury close couple tiolet but when i flush it there is water leaking from the bottom of the cistern, but it only happens when i flush it any hlp would be great.


You need the proper wax ring to seal the toilet to the flange. Remove the toilet and check the wax ring. If it isn't compressed, get a spacer and a thicker ring.

Dec 05, 2014 | Home

1 Answer

Toilte leaks in front have chk the lines and find no leaks. Is it the toilte


If you have found no leaks on the supply line, be sure to check the seal between the tank and the bowl. This is a common source of leaks, especially on older toilets that have seen much use.

Before you do that though, check carefully at the base of toilet to see if its possible any water is appearing from under the toilet. Your toilet sits on a seal, most often made of wax (sometimes rubber) that seals the water and waste from the toilet into the drain pipe. Normally, those seals last many years. Flush the toilet 3-4 times and observe whether any water seeps out under the toilet. Give it a few minutes (4-5) and recheck. If it is leaking, the fix is pretty simple: Shut off the water, disconnect the source water line just so you won't risk breaking it, and remove the 2-4 toilet bolts. Rock the toilet gently and pull straight up until the seal comes loose. The beeswax seals seem to work the best. Scape off as much of the old wax as you can, and set a new one. They are very inexpensive, and sell for around $2-3.00 USD. To reinstall, remove the protective lining (if present) on the wax, place the ring on the toilet, not the flange and carefully place it straight down onto the flange. Try not to make a mistake - line it up carefully. Press down on the toilet's seat area, maybe rocking yourself a little, until you can see the toilet is back in position.

Next, VERY CAREFULLY tighten the toilet's mounting bolts, a bit at a time, until secure. Over-tightening can break porcelain toilets, so be careful.
OK - either that's fixed or you've ruled it out. Next is the tank seal. Unfortunately, the only way to get to it is take the tank off. If its come to that, first go to the hardware store and secure a replacement set containing the tank seal, a new pair of brass bolts, and the bolt seals. Expect to pay around $4-5.00 USD for the set. The job is pretty easy, you use a wide flat-bladed screwdriver to loosen the (usually) brass screws in the bottom of the tank after shutting off the water and while an assistant holds the nuts from the bottom. You COULD do if yourself, but an assistant makes it easier. Carefully lift off the tank, and you'll see the seal. Remove it, and replace it with the new one, being careful to put it in the right direction, as they are usually cone-shaped. Set the tank back on, put the screws back in, using new seals/bolts (just for good luck) and reassemble. BE CAREFUL when tightening the bolts!! You can easily crack the tank if overtightened.

This is a lot of writing, but just to give you an idea, I could probably change a wax ring in 10 minutes, and the tank seal in 15 or so. Best wishes -

Jun 09, 2014 | Electronics - Others

1 Answer

Caroma toilet 12years old, concealed cistern. Water leaking around base when toilet is flushed. water level maintained when not flushing, so the leak must be between the cistern and the bowl. Had a plumber...


Fixing a leaky toilet is actually rather simple, requiring few tools and just a little time and effort. In looking at Caroma toilets on Google, they appear to be just a standard type of unit, and should present few if any problems for yourself or any handyman of modest skill.

If it is leaking around the base of the toilet - where the toilet sits on the floor, the repair item is a simple wax seal. Here is a tutorial to effect this repair: Replace Toilet Wax Ring. The wax ring is very inexpensive, usually $5 to $10 USD.

If the water is leaking from between the tank (cistern) and the toilet bowl, the job is even easier, as it does not require lifting and moving the entire toilet. A good tutorial for that repair is here: How to Replace Tank to Bowl Gasket . The gaskets, new nuts, bolts and rubber seals come in a kit and also cost only $5 to $10 USD.

I am sorry to hear your Plumber insisted you buy an entire new toilet, but do remember he is in the business of making money!

Jan 28, 2014 | Home

1 Answer

I have a problem with the water in the tank leaks past something, maybe the flush valve assembly and the tank has to refill about every 25 min. I got a new flush valve assembly and changed it and put...


Hi keithn60...

I had the same problem one time with my toilet tank, the answer is to put some silicone on the seal washer between the take and bowl assembly and to use a level on the tank to tighten it just enough to be level and not leak.
Please take time to rate me

Jun 27, 2011 | American Standard 4021 White Cadet 3...

1 Answer

My eljer tank cracked and I need to install a new tank. How do I just install a new tank? The bowl is fine. Companies are trying to charge me about $300 to do this and I do not have the money. Please...


Let's assume you can buy the tank.
Installation of tank is simple.

If you can buy the eljer tank, you can buy whole new toilet with bowl and tank from home center.

We'll walk through instructions for both options.

1) How to replace tank on existing bowl.
-Tank is attached from underneath with two nuts.
-Turn off water, and hold flush valve down to drain tank
-Water connection is one nut. Follow supply line up to where it connects to tank. Loosen the nut that is around supply line just underneath tank. Pull nut downward and notice a black rubber washer that is probably stuck inside nut, or is stuck at bottom of tank. Make a note of where that nut is because it seals the water line to tank.
-You might also have a flex connector instead of supply tube. In that case, just unscrew flex connect from bottom of flush valve.
-Look beneath the tank and there are two nuts that hold tank to bowl.
-Take off these two nuts. A ratchet and socket is best tool, but you can use crescent wrench. -Notice these nuts are not exceptionally tight, but they are firm.
-Straddle the bowl and hold tank with two hands and lift up. Tank will come right up.
-Notice that on bottom of the tank: there are 2 bolts sticking out and there is a spongy rubber washer. This is the spud washer. Your new tank will have new washer. This washer seals tank to bowl so water doesn't leak when you flush.
-Notice round opening where flush water flows into bowl. Spud washer seals this hole. If you have experienced slow flushing, or if you have hard water, pour several cupfuls of CLR Calcium Lime Rust into the hole. CLR is sold at Home Depot by the gallon for $10.

-Open box to new tank. Find spud washer and fix it to bottom of new tank.
-Now a new tank is slippery, I want you to set boxes on floor nearby so if tank starts slipping, aim toward a box instead of hard tile floor.
-New tank comes with 2 new bolts, with nuts. Look at instruction sheet and see exactly how they want you to connect bolts to tank. Look carefully where they want you to put washers. These washer seal the tank when you tighten bolts.
-Now your spud washer is in place, the bolts are attached to tank and are sticking out of bottom of tank.
-Straddle bowl and lower new tank into place. Make sure spud washer lines up. Bolts line up. And flush valve lines up with supply tube. It's that easy.
-Tighten the nuts. Remember, not too tight. Toilet is not steel. And you can tighten more if there is seeping water.
-Now tank is in place. Raise nut and washer that are on supply tube and tighten nut onto bottom of flush valve. This nut is fairly tight. You might want to buy a new washer.
-If you have a flex line for the water supply, then just connect the flex line.

-Turn water ON a little bit at a time to avoid gusher if something is not correct.
-Use paper towels to check for dripping or seepage beneath tank. Tighten nuts appropriately to end seepage.
-Flush toilet and look for seepage around spud washer.
-You're done.

2) How to install new toilet.
-Remove old tank as shown above.
-Bowl is held to floor with two nuts.
-Ideal world those two nuts come right off and you lift bowl up off the floor.
-Real world, those nuts are rusted and you have to drill through side of the nut and bolt to break it off.
-Lift bowl up.
-Have cardboard ready next to toilet so you can set bowl on something. Or set it in bathtub.
-Bowl will be damp and wax ring is on bottom of bowl and will mess up the floor.
-Notice how the toilet bolts are set in the floor flange. Take photo if needed so you can put it back. It's real simple, but if you have never done this, a photo might help.
-Take putty knife and scrape wax ring off of floor flange. You want it smooth, but you don't clean it.
-New toilet comes with wax ring and bolts, but you might have to buy these at hardware store. Get wax right with gasket. The boxes are marked. Buy two of them.
-Set wax ring in center of floor flange. Gasket goes downward. Rounded side of wax ring goes up.
-Set new toilet bolts into floor flange. Keep bolts straight up using wax from the old wax ring, or from 2nd wax right you purchased.
-Keep bolts straight across from each other.
-Time to set the toilet.
-Stand in front of bowl and grab on either side at point where seat connects.
-Here's the fun part.
-Bowl has to go straight down onto wax ring so you have to be strong enough to hold tank level while aligning tank with bolts, without knocking the bolts down. Like a carnival game.
-Straddle walk toilet while holding it up high enough so it will not knock over the bolts.
-Lower bowl into place going straight down using bolts as guide. Lower a little bit and check one side for alignment and then check other side until bowl is going down and bolts fit through the holes.
-If bolt falls over or gets pushed away, straddle walk toilet back and set bolt straight up again.
-Once bowl is aligned, keep pushing straight down on bowl, and finally use your weight to push bowl to floor. Be careful to keep bowl perpendicular to wall so tank will sit straight.
-Attach bowl to floor with nuts and washers.
-Install tank as shown above.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on toilet or any do-it-yourself project.

Jan 12, 2011 | Eljer 141-0220-00 Toilet Tank White

1 Answer

HOW DO I CHANGE FLUSH SEAL ON KOHLER ONE PEICE TOILET


The flush seal is the rubber gasket between the tank and the bowl. You do not have one. So I am guessing you mean the wax ring on the floor?? They usually only get replaced when the toilet is changed, unless you spring a leak. Or are you talking about the flapper inside the tank that holds the water till the flush lever is pulled? Get a new flapper, if it is just the flapper you need, otherwise you will have to buy the whole thing, all these parts are available at the hardware store. I think it is held on by a couple screws in there, might just be a press fit, we don't see too many one piece toilets. And the wax ring is about $2, but the toilet has to be unbolted from the floor and water disconnected, clean off the old wax, put on the new ring, smoosh it back down and bolt it back it up. Don't for get the water line. Check to make sure you have no leaks. Hope this helps.

May 23, 2010 | Kohler K-3386-0 Rialto one-piece...

2 Answers

Leaks when cleaning the bowl. Bowl moves a bit. Plumber was afraid to tighten bolts too much for fear of breaking bowl. How tight?


Leaks at the floor or the tank where it meets the base behind the seat?

Generally tight enough to sinch it so as not to leak.

If the whole unit moves on the floor the wax ring may need to be replaced. If the tank leaks be sure the bolts are tightened evenly with new gaskets sealing them inside the tank. Tighten the nuts evenly until it stops moving freely and the leak should stop.

Dec 17, 2009 | Toto Aquia II Dual Flush Toilet

1 Answer

How do I install a gerber 21-375 Toilet? It came with no instructions.


The Gerber Ultra Flush Back Outlet toilet, that uses 1.1 Gallons of water to flush?

Just like any common toilet. Install the tank to the bowl of the toilet, set the toilet, install the flush mechanism in the tank, attach the supply line.

1.MAKE SURE you put the two plastic U-shaped spacers on the back of the bowl!
2.Install the round rubber gasket in-between the tank and the bowl.
3.Set the tank down on the bowl. Make sure you have the round gaskets that go up under the bolt heads, then insert the two bolts into the tank, and through the bowl. NOT installing these will cause a leak!

Tighten these bolts down, until the nuts are JUST touching the tank. (There is a flat washer that goes under each nut)
DO NOT tighten one bolt all the way, then tighten the other bolt!!
These bolts MUST be tightened evenly. Tighten one turn on one bolt, then go to the other bolt.
DO NOT overtighten, or you will break the bowl, and/or the tank!

Make sure your toilet flange on the sewer pipe is in good repair, and clean, from the old beeswax ring. It can be messy, even using gloves. Use a flat painters stick to help remove the old wax ring. Scrape off into a old can. The wax thin residue on the floor and flange is fine.
Set the new wax ring in place, remove the plastic liner that comes with the ring. DO NOT leave that thin plastic liner! It's just to install that wax ring!

Install the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor, or reuse the old bolts if they are in good repair.
Tighten EVENLY, and don't overtighten! You can crack the bowl.

Now install the toilet mechanism in the tank.
Here is a 1 Page, Tank to Bowl Installation Guide from Gerber. It is a PDF file. Let it download ALL the way before looking at it.
http://gerberonline.com/fileLib/Toilets%20Ultra%20Flush%20IS.pdf

Should this direct link not work for you, here is the page it came from,
http://www.gerberonline.com/Catalog.aspx?categoryID=2204&itemID=3514

It's on the right side -> Installation Instruction (PDF)

Jul 02, 2009 | Gerber Blades Gerber Ultra Flush White ADA...

2 Answers

How to Install Toilet


It's not terribly complicated, assuming that by "install a new toilet" you mean where there was alredy an existing toilet. First, remove the old toilet. Shut off the water supply valve, and flush the toilet. Then use a spone to get rid of the water that remains in the tank. Remove the nuts on the two bolts at the base of the toilet where the toilet meets the floor. These are usually hidden under two plastic caps. Now gently rock the toilet until it comes away from the floor. Get help to carry it out. Clean up the old wax that's around the flange where the pipe disappears into the floor. Don't be a wuss, it's only wax. Now you'll need the new toilet, a new supply line, new mounting bolts (don't reuse the old ones) and a two wax rings. Yes, I said two wax rings. You'll see why in a minute. Assemble the new toilet according to the instructions provided. Now here's a warning: Do NOT overtighten the bolts the hod the tank to the bowl. You're dealing with ceramics here, don't break them. Now, put the new hold-down bolts in place on the flange. Read the insturctions that came with the toilet, but you have to do this NOW. Now you'll need a helper. With the toilet upsided down, unwrap a wax ring. Make sure it's room temprature or it won't seal. Press the wax ring around the outlet flange on the base of the toilet. Now you and your helper carefully turn the toilet over without crushing the wax ring. Lift the toilet and slowly lowe it so the wax ring is centered over the "flange" which is where the sewer pipe goes into the foor. Then press the toilet firmly in place. Now if you're like most people, you screwed up here and crushed the wax ring without being centered on the flange. That's why I told you to buy two. Now you know what not to do, scrape off the first one and start again. When you've got the toilet sealed on the flange, connect and tighten the nuts on the bolts. Now you may have to use a hacksaw to cut off the remaining ends of the bolts so you can get the neat little plastic caps to fit. Now connect the water supply line. Now's where you start praying. Turn on the water and let the tank fill. Check the supply line for leaks. Fix as necessary. Now flush. Is water running out from around the base of the toilet? No? Good, you got a good seal. Yes? Very bad. Time to go back to the home center for yet another wax ring. Repeat the sealing process and get a good seal this time.

Aug 27, 2008 | Kohler Santa Rosa K-3323-0 White Compact...

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