Motor for cube release works. water comes out for drinking.no water to ice maker. ice maker looks like it stopped while in release of cubes into bucket. wife thought she heard a tapping noise last nite but didn't know were it came from.is it possible motor to ice maker is shot. cleared cubes that were stuck but no water will come into tray too make cubes
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Bonjour, Ice makers can clog. The water valve can stick open or closed or even not work at all. The water fill nozzle can clog with ice or food. If the unit has been moved the water line could be kinked or the water filter may be clogged. Maybe the water valve for the ice maker water line is turned off. Is there one under the sink? Inside most ice makers there is a thermostat that tells the ice maker that the water is frozen and it's time to dump the ice cubes. That starts a geared motor running to dump out the cubes. And in some cases a mold heater is turned on to help break the ice cubes loose. A lot of ice makers have a cam attached to the motor that turns with the shaft. When the ice cubes are gone the cam starts a timer to refill the ice maker with fresh water to make some more ice cubes. Most "fill" cycles of ice makers are "timed fill". The fill cycle has to start and stop to get fresh water into the ice maker. There may be another thermostat that monitors the air temperature where the ice maker is mounted. If that thermostat thinks the air is not cold enough to freeze water nothing happens. If all the steps don't happen at the right time no ice cubes are made.
There are usually 2 small solenoid valves that are used to control water. Both are generally installed at the rear close to the bottom of the fridge. One of the solenoids controls the water flow for drinks and the other is to control water flow to the ice maker. You can determine which is which by tracing the water supply tubes from the freezer compartment to the solenoid or by process of elimination. The latter method requires that you feel for movement (clicking) or heat on the water dispenser solenoid while someone starts to fill a glass with water from the fridge.
Before going any further, make sure that the ice cube detection arm in the freezer is not up. Gently push the arm down if it is. When ice cubes are ready, the ice maker turns on a small heater to break the bond of the ice cubes to the cube mold. The arm is lifted up and out of the way. Then the mechanical fingers wipe or push on the cubes to dislodge them from the ice cube mold and they fall into the container. The arm is then lowered again and rests on top of the ice collected in the container. The position of the arm when resting on the ice cubes determines whether or not any more ice cubes are made.
If the arm is hanging down, then ice cube production should be on. The problem may be either a faulty solenoid valve (mentioned above), switch in the ice maker assembly - the detection arm in particular or wiring between.
Hey heads up! The ice-cube maker has two parts... In fancy terms the business motor end, and the back-stop. Your back-stop is all busted. Mostly because it's been used successfully as a backstop for a few thousand times. The piece costs about $20, and you can get it at any Samsung parts distributor. The best way to check this is that your ice-cube tray will look like it's coming un-hinged in the back when it attempts to empty the ice.
When it works properly the ice-cube tray is actually contorted about 45 degrees from the front end to the back. The same way an adult male would crush ice.
The cubes are hollow? Means not enough water coming in on the fill cycle to fill the metal ice tray (netal form, see solution #2). There should be an adjustment under the end cover, looks like a screw with a spring around it. Look inside the cover and see if the directions are there for adjusting it properly.
Depending on the ice maker style, they typically work off a motor timer. The timer motor rotates to set up the ice making process... starting with letting water into an empty ice mold tray, allowing ample time for that water to freeze and then to rotate that mold so that the cubes fall out into the bin. In conjunction with that process, a small heater is turned on to release the frozen cubes from the tray. The 'ice tray full' lever signals the system to stop making ice so you may want to verify that the lever is down and not causing the ice maker to stop, If that's down then I suggest you monitor the position of the motor gearset underneath an access cover. With power applied, the gears should rotate and cycle thru an ice making process. If it does and ice fails to fall out, your heater may be defective. Hope that helps...
sounds more like the heater in the ice maker is bad. The cycles of the ice maker are:
1. water comes in to fill ice maker.
2. water freezes in ice maker making.
3. heater comes on to help ice release.
4. motor comes on to eject the ice and start all over again.
if the heater doesn't come on the ice will not eject. replacing the icemaker is typically what needs to be done in this case.
There is no pump per say.. the water pressure is all that fills the ice maker and provides water to the drinking dispensor. The solenoids are also different, one activates for ice maker and the other for drinking water. The fastest way to check water flow is to swap the wires on the solenoids so the drinking water "power" will now power the ice fill solenoid. Once the plugs are swapped and you press the drinking water lever the ice maker should pour water out the fill tube. If that works then you know the solenoid, tube, etc. are all fine. I'd suspect then that the ice maker fill solenoid isn't getting power when it is suppose to fill. Let me know what this test result is.