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Sounds more like a problem in the UPS than the battery. If you don't have a voltmeter or a friend who has one (should read 12 volts), try connecting the battery to a 12v car light globe (brake or turn indicator globe). The globe should glow brightly and get warm. If so, the battery is fine.
on the previa, the main fuse box is located in the top of the dash board, the panel above the heater switches comes off to reveal it. There is a little level/clip just above the heater switches hidden by the curve of the panel, push and lift. Turn the ignition switch to the "Off" position. Insure the component with the suspected blown fuse is turned off. Reach under the central instrument panel cover, located above the air conditioning controls in the center of the dashboard, and press upward on the panel cover release latch. This is where most of the fuses are located in a Toyota Previa. Lift the panel cover up and off. Observe the underside of the control panel cover. It will have a schematic diagram along with the name of each circuit controlled by the corresponding fuse. Determine the location of the fuse that controls the affected component. The Toyota Previa makes use of three different types of fuses: type A, which are thin and elongated, type B fuses that resemble a box with a window in the top to reveal the fuse link, and type C, which also resemble a box with a clear plastic top. Grasp the suspected fuse and pull straight up and out. Look down through the clear top of the fuse. If the metal connector is broken and not connected, the fuse is blown. Insert a replacement fuse of the same type and amperage rating into the vacant slot. Replace the instrument control panel and press down until it snaps closed. Turn the ignition switch to the "On" position. Activate the suspected component. If replacing the fuse did not solve the problem, troubleshoot further or take the car to a qualified technician for repairs.
L2 is a Surface Mount Technology (SMT) inductor. Component marks by convention: L inductor, C capacitor, R resistor, F fuse, D diode, Q transistor, X crystal (xtal), U Integrated Circuit (IC).
L2 is probably a wire through some bulk ferrite for EMI filtering from the power controllers/invertors/CPU/GPU to stop the battery broadcasting the system hash/noise far & wide.
Holding the original L2 inplace while attempting to power up the device worked, but soldering it in didn't. A scavenged similarly sized & shaped L marked component from an old harddrive PCB - from the 5 volt line off the molex power connector - worked fine. Paul Coucher
Makita generally does not provide a schematic for the charger wiring. The only parts that are usually replaceable are the cord and housings and possibly a fuse. If this is an older charger I would look for a "cold solder joint" I fixed quite a few for this and one component breaking loose. I dont know if Makitausa website can help or not. What volt is this charger, I have a couple in my garage that I can look at also
Check if "L2" is in place. Ususally drop from its position in the circuit board near the power switch, is a little black piece with solder in 2 sides. And the symptoms are almost the same as the blown F1 and F2 fuses.
If you opened your DS and didnt found it or wasnt aware and lost it you'll need a parts circuit board to take it from and solder it to your board, as theres no known part specification or schematics for the DS, at least as I know the only way is using a Henry meter to get the L2 value.
And you might have a water damaged board or broken top screen ribbon cable too as for the tick sound from the speaker is new for me.