Question about Sony KP-41T65 41" Rear Projection Television

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KP-41S3U WHEN I SWITCH IT ON YOU GET THE USUAL HISS NOISE OF POWER UP BUT THEN U GET 2 CLICKS LIKE A RELAY CLING SOUND .WHILE ALL THE TIME THE STAND BY LIGHT FASHES AND THATS IT IT JUST KEEPS FLASHING CAN ENY ONE PLEASE HELP ME .THANX

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  • Anonymous Apr 19, 2008

    convergece

  • RAF786 May 07, 2008

    THW LED HAS A SEQUENCE 1 QUICK AND 1 LONG BLICK.CANNOT DO ANYTHING FROM REMOTE EITHER.CAN ANYONE HELP AS I REALLY LIKE THIS TELLY

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I have a sony kp-41T65 burnt capacitor C514. need specs. Help please. Thanks

Posted on Apr 15, 2008

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Lights flip up when car starts,never go's down


sounds like your on off switch in vichle is not working correctly as it may be stuck in the on position even though you switch it off. I say that only because there seems to be power on the light motor all the time and when you start the car they flip up> find the relay that goes to the motor off the lights it could also be that the relay is stuck in the on position. when you switch your lights on you should hear a click noise come from the relay if you dont then it is possible that it may be burnt inside> easy way to cheack is to start the car and remove one fuse at a time if nothing happens replace the fuse and do the next one until the lights close. all you will be doing is removing power off the relay, when you find the one that is powering that motor remove it and replace the relay

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External memorex does a cling cling sound continuously and cannot be detected on the laptop


The external harddrive has a processing unit to compile and store data. A noice is expected as usually functionaily though much more noise is indication of porcessing of data into backup media files. Allow the computer some time soon after usage to achieve processes without powering off. Durign whihc time backup is attained.

Jan 29, 2011 | Memorex Ultra Traveldrive - 160GB USB Hard...

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My Sony KDS-60A2000 is 41/2 years old. About 2 weeks ago I could not get the tv to power up. the green stand by light just kept blinking. I powered off, then powered up again and the tv started and and...


Hi,
TV needs lamp replacement as existing lamp got weak or has been reached to end of its working life, please note that lamp is not dead or broken so that is why lamp lit is not lit at tv front.
Hope these info will help you.
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Nov 03, 2010 | Sony KDS-60A2000 60" HDTV

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Kawasaki eliminator dont star any noise starter, when im push star botton


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, if the problem is that the starter motor will not turn when the start button is pressed, determine if there is a clicking sound:
  • if there is, then the starter relay is activating but not engaging. To confirm, temporarily short the 2 big terminals of the starter relay. The starter motor should turn;
  • to locate the starter relay, follow the battery's + cable;
  • if starter motor will not turn even when the relay's terminals are jumped, the faulty starter motor most likely the carbon brushes and/or the commutator segments;
  • if the starter motor spins when terminals jumped, then the starter relay is faulty;
  • if there is no clicking sound, try with the clutch lever pulled in and/or the side stand folded up;
  • check the neutral switch / light.
Postback results of above tests.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Dec 21, 2009 | 1985 kawasaki ZL 900 A1 Eliminator

1 Answer

I have samsung 40 inch plasma (model LE40M86BD) will not come on . stand by light flashes and clicking relay sound from inside alternately . has gradually got worse.now will not switch on.


You plasma cells have died off. That relay making noise is not good. Sorry about the bad news. Plasma tv are knowing to do that after few years or so.

Nov 23, 2009 | Samsung Televison & Video

2 Answers

Won't start!


sounds like the starter solonoid(or relay) has gone on vacation with out you or the bike the clicking noise would be the (relay) solonoid trying to complete the circut to engage the starter

Jan 04, 2009 | 2008 Triumph Daytona 675

1 Answer

Webcam Speakers Echo and Double Feedback


"Noise", as used in this document, is a general term referring to any sound a speaker system makes that is not part of the original source material. There are many different types and sources of noise, each with its own solution. Below is an explanation of the common types of noise, what causes them, and how to minimize their occurrence.
Hum or Buzz
There are four common causes of humming and buzzing:
  1. Sound card If the humming or buzzing gets louder or softer with changes in the volume setting, this is an indication of noise coming from the sound card. In this case, check all of the connections to the sound card to make sure they are all completely plugged in and secure. Then, adjust the level setting of the sound mixer to obtain the best performance. Generally, you should leave your CD volume settings in the mixer at full and reduce the sound card's master output level down. For information on doing this, please refer to your sound card manufacturer's documentation.
  2. Unused input cables If you are not using all of the source inputs to your speaker system (such as using a 5.1 speaker system with a 4 channel sound card), the unused input cables will pick up noise. The solution is different for each speaker system, as described below:
    Z-540 / Z-560 (2 channel sound card): Depress the M3D button.
    Z-640 (4 channel sound card): Depress the Matrix button.
    Z-680 (2 or 4 channel sound card): Disconnect the unused input cables from the control pod
  3. High-power devices If you are using other high powered devices on the same electrical circuit, they may be causing hum or buzz. If so, discontinue their use while you are using your speaker system. Examples of such devices include microwave ovens, halogen lamps, power tools, etc. Also note that high-power devices with dimmer switches (such as halogen torchiere lamps) will cause an especially pronounced buzzing effect. To minimize hum or buzz, make sure that the dimmer switch on these products is either all the way on or off.
  4. Electric Polarity In many countries, the US being one, the electrical power grid is polarized. In these countries, the power plugs are designed so they can only be inserted into the wall socket in a single direction. For example, in the US one of the plug blades is larger than the other. To avoid humming and buzzing, both your computer and speaker system must be properly plugged into polarized outlets. If your wall outlets do not have polarized plugs, as in the case of many older homes, and you are using adapters to plug these power cords into the wall, it is possible that the polarity of either your computer or your speaker system is reversed. In many other countries, such as most of the European continent, wall sockets are not polarized at all - making it even more difficult to properly match the computer and speaker system. To solve the problem you will need to remove the power plug from the wall outlet, rotate the plug 180°, and re-insert it into the wall. Try this for your speaker system power cord, your computer power cord, or both. You should be able to find a combination that will eliminate the humming and buzzing.
Pops and Clicks
There are three main causes of pops and clicks:
  1. Sound Card Many pops and clicks are created by the sound card. There are two common causes: sound card quality and older or mismatched drivers. If the overall volume level of the pops and clicks goes up and down as you change the volume on the speaker system, the noise is being generated by your sound card. Lower quality sound cards don't include the necessary circuitry to cleanly remove noise from the sound output. Logitech's higher-powered systems, such as the Z-560 and Z-680, are also sensitive to the overall quality level of the sound card. If you are using an older or lower quality sound card, we suggest upgrading your sound card. The other primary cause is older or mismatched drivers. Make sure you are using the latest drivers for your sound card.
  2. Multi-tasking If you are running more than one program on your computer that accesses the sound system at the same time, small pops and clicks can be common. This is a function of your computer and/or sound card. A common example is using a program that generates occasional audio feedback (such as beeps or other sound effects) while listening to an MP3 track in the background. The solution is to turn off audio feedback in the first application so that the background MP3 track is uninterrupted.
  3. Interrupts in the Digital Bitstream On digital systems, such as the Z-680, it is normal to hear a very faint "tick" when you switch between inputs (by pressing the input button). You may also hear louder 'clicks' or 'pops' on a device such as a standalone DVD player or a sound card if it is plugged into one of the digital inputs. On some systems, this noise may occur when skipping tracks, switching audio streams (for example, from Dolby Digital to DTS), or navigating a DVD menu. The clicks and pops occur because the device is sending out an interrupted digital data stream. This behavior generally occurs with older software and older players, but is uncommon on most modern equipment. The Z-680 has been extensively tested with the latest sound cards, software DVD players, and standalone DVD and CD players. If you experience extensive popping and clicking, we suggest upgrading to the latest version of your software DVD player or, if using a stand alone device, trying a different speaker model. If you need more assistance with this issue, please contact Customer Support.
Stutter
A stuttering sound track is an indication of either insufficient or conflicting computer resources. Check to make sure that your computer has sufficient processor power and memory to handle the applications you are running, especially if you are using a software DVD player. Defragmenting your hard drive may also help. If you are sure you have sufficient resources, check to make sure that you don't have any conflicting IRQ or DMA channels.
We have also seen some software DVD player/sound card combinations that cannot properly output a Dolby Digital or DTS signal through the sound card's S/PDIF digital connector. (S/PDIF is a generic term for either coax or optical digital connections.) The result, when using a Z-680 hooked up to a S/PDIF connector, is a stuttering soundtrack. As mentioned, this stuttering is caused by the computer, not the Z-680 speakers. Switching the software DVD player's sound output to the 5.1 analog outputs will generally solve this problem.
Hiss
All high-powered amplification devices - everything from multimedia systems to home theater systems to movie theater sound systems -- generate some level of background noise, or hiss. In addition, low quality sound cards with poor signal-to-noise ratios can generate a significant amount of steady hiss that is reproduced on the speakers. Under normal conditions at a normal listening distance, the hiss coming from the sound system should not be noticeable. In a very quiet room, or if you place your ear very close to the speaker, you may hear a very low level hiss. This is normal, but should be completely masked by normal music and game sounds.
If you find that hiss is noticeable, it is likely that the speakers are too close to your listening position. If the speakers are too close, you will not obtain the best imaging of the sound and you risk damage to your hearing when the system is playing at full power levels. Try moving the speakers further away from your normal listening position. We recommend at least 18" for the moderately-powered systems (such as Z-340, Z-540, and Z-640) and at least 30" for higher-powered systems (such as the Z-560 and Z-680).
Also, note that the satellites in most Logitech speaker products are designed to be wall-mounted. Wall mounting the speakers provides two benefits: 1) it moves the of the satellites further away from your listening position, making any hiss less noticeable and 2) it moves all of the satellites further away from each other, providing better channel separation and surround sound spatialization.

Feb 16, 2008 | Logitech Webcam

1 Answer

Furnace lights up then shuts off then 1-3 min kicks back on


The clicking noise is the heat fan relay. The limit control switch or the high temp thermal disc is what usually causes this. I am with the other guy as I need a little more info. The limit switch has a flat panel with 2 wires on it and held on by 2 screws. It goes inside the heat chamber and has a long probe on the back, usually 3 to 4 inches long. The thermal disc is just that, a disc about the size of a nickel, with 2 wires attached, and is usually not far from the limit control. If you can find these parts, by-pass them by removing the 2 wires on them and connecting them to each other. If this solves the problem, that's it. A faulty thermostat may do the same thing. Go to the thermostat and connect the red to the white wire, problem stops, change the thermostat.

Jan 11, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Klipsh Promedia 2.1


I was face the same problem 2 year's ago.This problem occur when you move the speaker's here and there.at that time speaker's wire diconnected in inside...please check the whole wire by electricians for where exactly it is disconnected...

Sep 10, 2006 | HP ProMedia Computer Speakers

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