Hi. I have the amp hooked up as follows: 12v + from car battery to fuse then straight to amp 12v + input. The remote wire is hooked up to a 12v + supply from a switch. Neg. is hooked up directly to the frame. I have the speaker wires theat used to go to my factory subwoofer connected to a box that coverts it to RCA for the amp, which of course is connected to the input side of the amp.
A voltage reading of 12.74 volts is at the Pos. and Neg. terminals at the amp, but when the remote is switched on, the voltage drops to 4.337 volts and the green light is of course, now dim. I checked for loose connections and even ohmed my pos. and neg. wires with a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance. I also took the speaker wire for the factory subwoofer and hooked it up directly to the speaker wire input on the amp with no success.
The neg. cable is hooked up to a mounting bolt at the rear deck of my car. It seems to be a ground as I have referenced it and recieved a good reading. Is it possible that something is dropping out when the amp demands power? I did also run the car with 13.54 volts being supplied with the alternator running.
Disconnect the remote wire and make a jumper at the amp from the 12v + to the remote input and see if you get the same results. If yes, then you probably have a bad ground point. It might not be able to handle the transfer load it's receiveing. If no, then you have an issue with your remote wire or power wire. Check for any kinks or pinches in the wire.
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With the radio OFF, take a jumper wire and connect from the 12V input to the remote input of the amp to see if it powers on.(BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE GROUND). If it does, your remote from the radio is either cut somewhere, or not working at all. If it doesn't turn on then turn on the radio and do the same thing with the jumper wire, if it turns on, then your 12V power from battery is not working, maybe a blown fuse by the battery?
Check the wires at the amp. Make sure that the wires are neatly bundled and clean cut when connecting them, a stray wire may be going under one of the connections from the battery input to the ground input of the amp, there for causing a direct short and blowing the fuse. I am assuming you mean that the amp's fuse is blowing. Get yourself a test light and test the wires for power. battery power?(12V) is always on and remote power(12V) comes on only when the radio is on(it should be the blue wire in color). Then make sure you have a very good ground, I always use the seat belt bolt or car seat bolt(direct to chassis). If you checked all these steps with no luck then the culprit may be your amp.
Fused 12 volt power wire from the battery connects to +12V at the amp. Chassis ground wire connects to gnd at the amp. Switched 12 volt power wire (accessory) (remote turn on from after market radio) connects to rmt at the amp.
remote wire/ fuse possible? have you checked? traced all voltage?take and disconnect remote wire from amp and make short wire from remote to 12v if green light works then u may have bad remote wire or blown fuse.
There should be 3 wires on the power side of the amplifier.
Ground - to the car chassis
Power - to the car battery
Remote - to the remote turn on lead from the head unit. (this emits a 12V signal to a relay inside the amplifier for it to turn on when the radio does)
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You should verify some other way (with a multimeter or another amp/device) that your 12V is working at the amp. Then to troubleshoot the Remote wire, take a short lead of scrap wire and run it from the 12V power input of the amp over to the Remote input like a jumper. If the amp still doesn't power up, then look for and check the fuse on the amp. If there's good power at the amp, the remote input has good power, and the amp doesn't turn on, and the fuse isn't blown, then the amp is probably toast. Good luck!
You'll also need a remote turn-on source for the amp to operate. Normally, this is a blue or blue/white wire from your head unit, but for test purposes, you just need 12V to the "remote" terminal on the amp. The amp should power up without speaker inputs or speaker connections, but it is not recommended.
Red - Power (to ACC in vehicle)
Black - Ground
Yellow - 12V positive (battery lead)
Blue/White - External Amplifier Control Lead
White - Left Front Spkr +
White/Black - Left Front Spkr -
Gray - Right Front Spkr +
Gray/Black - Right Front Spkr -
Green - Left Rear Spkr +
Green/Black - Left Rear Spkr -
Violet - Right Rear Spkr +
Violet/Black - Right Rear Spkr -
The red and white RCA pigtail leads is for AUX input
Left set of Preamp Outputs - Rear Channels
Right set of Preamp Outputs - Front Channels
Only Models C3433U, C3304U, and C3333U have a 2nd set of RCA pigtail leads for subwoofer output.
Unfortunately, I can't find the manual for that amp online, so I'm flying blind. If there's anything similar to "system control", that is essentially the same thing as the remote.
Another thing to try is try connecting the +12V wire to one of the "+" inputs at a time. If one of those connections is the remote, hooking +12V up to it but not the other will cause the amp to not turn on. If the amp turns on no matter what "+" input you put +12V on, then we know both "+" inputs are probably are just for +12V.
It's also possible that the DIN plug has the remote as one of the connections in it. Don't know that without the manual.
But, if the amp really, truly has no remote wire connection, you'll need to get a SPST switch or relay to turn the amp on/off. Otherwise, without a switch or remote, your amp would be on 24/7 and drain your battery in no time.
I have found the problem to my Kenwood KAC-7202. The amps fan was the only thing that would come on thats it. So I started checkin zener diodes cause all transistors checked out fine. So I remember readinf about a guy that had same problem and took it to a shop and they said it was some diodes. Well, thats what I was thinkin or the transformer. It turned out that 1 zener diode was no good, diode D9 1ss133. I took a zener out of an old vcr I use for parts and put it in and the fan came on as usual then the red light. Then I hooked my mp3 player to the rca input and hooked up some speakers and it works great. Hope this helps you other guys with the same problem. Check your zener diodes with a digital volt meter, if you get any measurement other than the reverse impedance which will read between 600 and 1200 ohms some lower or higher and then reverse the leads on your meter and if you get any reading it's no good and the reading will be 0-50 cause mine read 047 ohms.