Question about Heating & Cooling
How to adjust automatic timing of the creda automatic heater model 79151?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Storage Heater
You will need a volt/ohm meter. remove the element or at least the wires on each end. set the meter to ohms, touch each lead from the meter to the opposing ends of the element. The meter should have some type of resistance. If it shows open or the needle doesn't move (on the older non digital type) then the element is bad.
Posted on Jan 05, 2008
The limit switch is shutting off and you are having to press the re-set button, right? The limit switch, if I am understanding you correctly, is the thermal disc type, may be ok, but what is causing it to shut off? I would first, not put total faith in the serviceman (PG&E maybe) and replace the limit switch. Its only a few bucks,and easy to do. Then if its still the same problem, look into the venting pipe. As it may not be adequate for the heater. Espically if its new. These new wall furnaces are kind of touchy. It may be larger, BTU wise, and the vent pipe may need to be enlarged. If this is a big job, and a bit too impractical, check the vent pipe, make sure its in good conditon, no leaks ect. install a cO2 detector and by-pass the limit switch.
Posted on Jan 07, 2008
I don't have manual, it's a borrowed one. Several days later, I pushed the botton at the bottom several times, looks it solved my problem.
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
I have one of these heaters as well. The input/output dials are thermostats.
The higher the input dial is set, the more power the heater draws during its charge cycle (ie the "on" period that is set on your time panel). Which means a higher daily ration of heat, and a bigger power bill.
The higher the output dial is set, the more quickly the heater lets the stored heat out. So the highest setting would give you most of your daily ration of heat during the "on" period but less heat for the "off period... while the lowest setting would give you a relatively constant heat output throughout the day.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
SOURCE: tip over switch
I have a free standing electric fireplace model HBL-155DLP/M20 serial number 20060731282 manufacturer number 16496. The lights still come on, however the heating element does not, and the blower has stop working, it there a fuse on this or does the circuit board have to be replaced?
Posted on Jan 10, 2010
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When asking for help, you should include the brand and model number to help get a great answer.
The automatic defrost system has 3 parts. 1: Timer. 2: heater. 3: thermal switch
The timer will start the automatic defrost cycle every so many hours. If the timer fails, the defrost cycle will never start. The electrical schematics should be under or on the back of the refrigerator. You can use this to figure out how to test the timer.
The heater is what does the actual defrosting. If it is broken, it will not heat.
The thermal switch turns the heater off when enough ice has been melted. If this switch fails, it will prevent the heater from heating.
The heater and the thermal switch will be wired in series and their connections will be securely covered so you cannot test them independently. You can electrically test then together but you cannot decide which one is broken unless you expose or cut a wire. I have never seen a heater fail.
I see timers and thermal switches fail. Heaters don't fail very often.
The heater and thermal switch are in the freezer area and are very close to the evaporator. You will have to take apart enough of the freezer compartment to get to these parts. You will also need to melt enough ice to get to these parts.
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