Splendide 2000, 1999 vintage, noise on dryer cycle.
I opened up the top and found a small motor like device on the right side with a grey plastic fin cap vibrating and rattling severely. What is that device and what has happened, how to fix it? Should I try to spray lube it? Doesn't look like it can be removed in place but don't know for sure.
Re: splendide 2000, 1999 vintage, noise on dryer cycle.
Without having seen the motor, it sounds like the piece might have something to do with cooling since it has a fin, and the plastic hub has worn down to the point of the shaking you mention. I would look at a parts layout and see if the cooling fan/fins are avvaileable without purchase of the motor and replace that piece only.
I am not a washer dryer guy, but it's something to think about.
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www.splendide.com/service/TRAINMANM_Complete.pdf WD802M (Splendide 2000). WDC1025M ... 6SOHQGLGH¥. Front Loading AutomaticWasher Dryer ... Description of Preset Wash Cycles / How to Set A Wash Cycle ONL: 21. Description of .... may appear to work well after repair is finished, but failure may occur at a ..... rear of the main top, then slide forward. Removing the ..
Big job. The top comes open with a small screwdriver, or better yet a putty knife slipped to the right and left front corners and pried up. You have a plastic clip on either side of the front top which will snap open when pried. Then, the front of the machine is usually held on with two screws that are inserted into the top front from the top sides, one screw in each side. The bottom is easier, once the top screws are out, you lift the whole front panel off. Down at the bottom of the front panel are two clips that go in two holes to hold the panel on. You will also be unplugging the wire connector to the door switch. We also had this happen, and if turning your clothes inside out or tying the strings doesn't work, we found to put such items inside a mesh "unmentionables/undergarments" bag stopped the problem. Be blessed.
Check the brackets that hold the top rack for any broken plastic brackets. My dishwasher was making the same noise and after noticing the broken plastic pieces I pulled out the dishwasher put it on its side removed a white panel on the bottom that is attached with two screws, removed the drain line and inside there were two plastic tabs from the broken bracket. Once those were removed the grinding noise stopped. The bracket holding the drain hose can be removed with a pair of pliers.
Open big front door, grey cover on right side top has a wire loom with three pin connector on left hand side. Check to see if unplugged. Connector is under little grey plastic cover remove with phillips screwdriver. May have to open tranport bed with green handle to reistall small cover.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.The motor coupler may be broken.It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin.This are possibilities to be checked.Thanks.
On almost all dryers the top will release by itself without requiring you to remove the front. There are two small clamp-like mechanisms under the top on the front side. They can be released easily by sticking a flat-tip screwdriver straight into them and pushing in. Once you open the top you can spin the drum by hand and tighten the screws on the fins.
Take not however that some fins are only placed in by plastic snaps, and if it is loose it probably means that it is broken and will require repairs.
Remove the top - two screws in the back then slide forward
In the front right top you will see the air box and the terminals for the heater coil along with other wires and sensors. Start the washer on a dry cycle and check the voltage to the heater terminals. You will be looking for 120 AC. If voltage there but no heat the heating element is bad. If no voltage there follow the wires to the overheat switches and check the voltage on the other side of these switches (round devices with two terminals on top). If there is voltage there then the switch has tripped. Unplug the machine. Look for a spot of paint on this switch, scratch it away and you will see a small hole. Insert a strightened paper clip into this hole and push to reset the switch. Re-power and test the results.
No power to these switches probably means a bad circuit board $$$.
I had the same problem but it's the FRONT Panel you need to remove. Before you start, unplug the thing first. BTW I did the whole proceedure in 10 minutes using an electric screwdiver / philips bit and a socket set with an 8mm socket with my leg in a cast. You can do better, I'm confident!
Two 8mm hex head bolts hold each fin on the drum. They can be tightened. You need to open the dryer front since they bolt from the outside of the drum. To open the dryer front you first take the door off by removing the two philips head screws, then slightly lift the door and pull toward you (the door hinges have little hooks on the end that inserts into the slots (this little design keeps the door from falling off during removal and install-nice). Then remove the two philips screws on the other side of the door opening (opposite the door hinges). These screws hold two plastic brackets (be sure to see how they are aligned before you remove them so you know how they go back on.
Now the front frame panel looks like an "H" . Grab the top two arms of the 'H" and give a quick ****. The top arms of the 'H" will come loose. The bottom part is held by a couple of clips, just pull up and the front panel comes off.
You will be able to spin the drum until the hex bolts for the fin(s) in question are visable / reachable from the right side (just above the heater unit-hope you unplugged the dryer earlier). I tightened it using an 8 mm socket.
Now reverse your steps: put the front panel back on the bottom clips and snap the top "H" arms back in place. Reinstall the plastic clips / screws and then put the door back on.
Hi Scott! On this model there's a little work to do to get the top open.
1. Remove the two screws that secure dryer door hinges to the frame. 2. On the opposite side of the door frame there are two screws also. Remove them and the plastic parts the screws go thru. 3. Remove the door by pulling it off with the hinges still attached to the door itself. The door will come right off for you if you took out the right screws in step one and open it and then pull away from the dryer (This model has a reversible door, designed for the customer to easily do themselves).
Now with the door off, the entire front panel pops loose, it is "ninged" at the bottom by two clips. The whole front panel will lift right off. Set the panel aside. At the top of the edges of the cabinet, there are two metal hooks, one on each side, that are held in place with a 5/16" screw (use a 5 1/6" nut driver to remove) After you remove the screws on these hook brackets, remove the brackets themselves. They are hooked into the top on either aide.
Now you can lift the top off sir...
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We had the same problem with our splendide 2100 top loader. If you remove the top cover, you will find 2 circular like black discs (the size of a dime) on the right hand side about 6 inches from the front. You need to push those down (with a very small blunt object) to reset them. Please make sure that you unplug your washer/dryer before you attempt this. Good luck.