Question about GE DPSB519EBCC / DPSB519EBWW Electric Dryer

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Ge dryer drum

I took the front panal of my dryer off to replace the top bearing, air duct,and the drum slide. I noticed the drum is really loose, prior to ordering new parts ti was rubbing and very loud. Is the drum supposed to be loose and when the parts are installed will the new parts ho;d everything in place?

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: GE DBL333EAOWW dryer

yes ...order it... you re better off changing the 2 paire of slices on the front when your take off the front from the drum ...its grey or green or white ...they must be finish ...beware they're expensive ....

Posted on Nov 30, 2007

FRANKSFIXIT
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Squeeking noise

Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Posted on Mar 05, 2008

docjohn174
  • 943 Answers

SOURCE: ge dryer

Hi Thanks for the question .Open the door,screws under top. remove screws. lift up top. 2 screws on the inside of front , remove. pull front away front bearings on the front support. . thanks the appliance doc. Please rate my answer thanks

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

TheMobilian
  • 8147 Answers

SOURCE: squeaky dryer drum...felt thing came off how to replace it?

Squeaking is cause by the drum bearing worn out and telling the tale. As it get thinner and thinner it begins to rub against the metal outer casing it is embellished in. To inspect it you must rmove tyhe front and get the drum out. Start by opening the the door and removing the screws holding down the top. Then raise the top and get the screws out thathold the front on. Use the rear acces panel(if applicable) to get the idler loose or access that idler from the front.e24a4b7.jpg

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: Ge dryer started making a loud rubbing sound

Sounds Like the drum is scraping. You can remove the drum and inspect the felt bearing/gasket for damage or a coin or screw that got lodged in it. You will need to remove Top and front in order to remove drum Carefully note the routing of the belt near the moter.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • 207 Answers

SOURCE: How to get the front panel off GE Profile Harmony

Here's a simple overview of what you have to do:

You actually don't remove the back sir, but that's okay, that's a common misconception for this model dryer. The proper way to disassemble this particular dryer is you start with the top. You have to start with the removal of the control panel, then the top of the dryer. What I would consider the top cover. Then you'll have to remove two plastic brackets. Then you have to remove the front. There's two aluminum brackets in each corner, remove those. Open the door and there'll be two more screws to remove on each side. You have to lift the front just a little and then pull towards you. I forgot to mention, before that part, you'll need to ensure you are disconnecting the electrical wiring. There's almost no chance of connecting the wrong ones even if you forget. GE made this part novice proof. Once you get the front removed, you'll see the lint/trap. There's a couple of screws on either side of the aluminum housing. Not much to it. Let me know if there's anything I can clarify further. Have fun!

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

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2 Answers

GE Dryer DBVH512EF0WW vibrates/shudders excessively. Particularly with the top on. I've replaced the front top bearing, drum slides and felt seal. What is my problem?


The only thing I can think of is if you have plastic inserts built into the drum then maybe you installed the wrong kit in the dryer.
Their are basically 2 styles of GE dryers. Those that have a steel drum and a bearing with glides on the front panel and those that have felt on the front panel and the plastic glides mounted in the drum itself.

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1 Answer

Replace slide DPRS405EA0WW


you need the front 1/2 top bearing G.E. part # WE3M26,also the 4 drum bearing slides that are mounted on this bearing need to be purchased too as they do not come with the door bearing,you need 2 white slides ( Part # WE1M504) and 2 green slides, (Part# WE1M507)which can be purchased along with this bearing

Aug 20, 2012 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

I have a DBXR453EA dryer which I cannot find on your list. When the dryer is in use it sounds like a bearing might be going bad or t roler is going bad. I tried to open the side up, but I cannot figure...


This dryer uses nylon slides to support the drum in the front. These are very cheap ($5) and not too difficult to replace.

The side panels do not come off on a front-loading GE.

Unplug the dryer.

Remove the screws along the top of the door opening and lift the top upward. Old machines have clips.

Remove the screws on the sides that are about 6" from the floor When these are removed, the panel is loose and may fall, so hold on to it). The front panel (door and all) should be free. You may find it easier to disconnect the wiring to free the panel entirely; be careful not to damage the connectors.

You should now be looking at the drum. Under the drum, in the front, are two little pieces of nylon. These are the slides. If your dryer doesn't have these, it uses a drum support bearing, a large white plastic piece that is about $25.

http://www.repairclinic.com/Drum-Or-Tub-And-Related-Parts?s=t-+DBXR453EA+-%3d%3dc26

Good luck from Detroit, MI.

Jul 11, 2011 | GE DBXR463EDWW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a GE profile Dryer DPSE810GOT and the dryer sounds like its running on metal to metal is the felt around the drum one piece or two and counld that cause it


The felt is two pieces. And, no, the problem is the drum support glides have worn through, allowing the drum to continue to wear into the front drum bearing. Replace the front drum bearing (WE3M26) and the drum slides (WE1M481) located at the top front of the drum.

Feb 28, 2010 | GE DPSE810EGWT Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I need a manual or somebody to tell me how to remove the back of my hotpoint dryer. Model DLL2650BGLWH. It sqeeks really bad and I was told it's prbably a shaft or bearing. Also, can I just try to...


Disconnect power to dryer.
Take screws out above door, allowing dryer top to swing up and back.
Remove screw near top from side panel into front panel, allowing front panel to be removed and set to the side.
Some models have a very small access panel at the very center of the drum on back, which may hide an " E " clip on the drum shaft, which would have to be removed, all other dryers no longer use them. Lift dryer drum up slightly and pull it forward a couple inches. (you do not need to remove the belt) Remove all the loose washers / sleaves on the back shaft of the drum and install a new WE3X75 rear drum bearing, then re-install drum. (no need to put the E clip back on.)
Check the drum slides on the bottom front side of the drum. Most times, if the rear bearing is in need of replacement, so are the front drum slides, especially the one on the left (blower / motor) side.
Just trying to lubricate it will not solve your problem.

Feb 18, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Replacement of belt on dryer


Here's how to replace a belt on an GE Profile DPSE810EG4 electric dryer. There may be some minor variation for other electric GE dryers, but it shouldn't be too different. DO NOT USE THESE INSTRUCTIONS ON GAS DRYERS AS ADDITIONAL PRECAUTIONS MAY BE REQUIRED! For the electric DPSE810EG4, you will need a #2 Philips screwdriver, a flashlight, a new belt, and patience. You will also need something very close to the left front of the dryer against which you will lean the front panel. A chair, a washing machine, or a wall all work fine for this purpose.

1) UNPLUG THE DRYER FOR YOUR SAFETY.
2) Pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the ducting.
3) Remove the top four screws on the back panel. (These secure the control panel)
4) Open the dryer door and remove the two screws on the top of the door frame. (These secure the top panel.)
5) Pop up the front of the top panel and slide the top panel forward an inch.
6) Unlock control panel by sliding it to the right, then pull it up to detach it from the top panel.
7) Lift off the top panel and set it somewhere
8) Undo the two screws that hold the front panel.
9) Pull up a little on the front lip of the drum while hinging the front panel forwards. On the DPSE810EG4, you can set the drum down on the support member that is underneath it. (On other models you might need to put something under the drum for it to rest on.)
10) Lift the front panel off of the pins that secure its lower end, and then hinge it to the left (be careful not to yank the wires). Lean it up against something.
11) Open the access door on the back. (On the DPSE810EG4 the access door is the exaust duct itself; remove the screw that secures it and slide it out of the dryer.) Set your flashlight inside the dryer aimed so that you can see the motor and the tension pully.
12) Remove the old belt. If it's snapped in half you can just pull it out. Otherwise, reach in through the back access door with your left arm and pull it off the motor, then come around front, lift up the front of the drum a little and slide the belt off the drum.
13) Reach in through the back access door with a cloth and remove any grease blobs on back of the tension pulley axle. (This way you won't accidentally get grease on the belt during the difficult step which comes next!)
13) Install the new belt. Lift up the front of the drum a little and slide the new belt onto it (the side with the parallel grooves should be touching the drum). Reach into the back access door with your left arm. Grab the belt and pull it around the right side of the plastic tension pulley and then pull it down around the metal motor pulley. You're less likely to get your fingers stuck if you grasp the belt from the front. (The side of the belt without the parallel groves should be in contact with the tension pulley. The side of the belt with the parallel grooves should be in contact with the motor pulley.)
14) Replace the front panel. Set it down on the pins, then hinge it forward while pulling up on the front lip of the drum. Secure the two screws.
15) Make sure the drum turns OK. (If it's fairly difficult to turn, you may wish to try removing the front panel and then try putting it back so that the drum sits inside the felt strip semicircle rather than compressing it. A drum that doesn't turn well will stress the motor and cause it to pause mid-cycle.)
16) Replace the top panel. Put it on top of the dryer, insert the control panel tabs into it, and lock them by sliding the control panel to the left. Slide the top panel back and pop it down in the front. Secure the front with the two long screws and secure the control panel with the four short screws.
17) Replace the rear access door / exhaust duct. Double check that you didn't leave anything inside (including your flashlight). Slide the exhaust duct back into the dryer and secure the screw that holds it.
18) Re-attach the rest of the ducting and move the dryer back into position.
19) Plug it in and make sure it works.

Dec 21, 2009 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...

1 Answer

GE Dryer Model DWSR483EA1WW squeaky noises


Un-plug dryer. Remove screws from front panel into dryer top. (just inside the door, at the top of the opening) Swing top up and remove screw near top of front panel on each side. Tilt front panel forward and lift off, set to the side. (leave wires attatched) Pull drum ahead about 4 inches. Do not remove belt. (it's a little tough to get the drum past the sides of the dryer) Remove the old rear drum bearing and replace it. If I remember correctly, it is a part number WE3X37. Replace drum. Check the front drum support slides on the front panel. They should be about 1/8 inch thick. If the rear bearing was squeaking, they may need replacing also. Finish re-assembly, plug back in and test.

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1 Answer

NVLR333ETOWB HOTPOINT DRYER EATING CLOTHES


Very likely the front support bearing is worn through and cracked there are also three drum slides that are positioned on the bearing which very likely worn to nothing and will need to be replaced as well. For model # NVLR333ET0WB replacement part numbers are:
FRONT BEARING: WE3X77
BEARING SLIDES: WE3X87

Good Luck to you.

Jan 07, 2009 | GE DBSR453EBWW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer drum causing squeak


Most likely the front support bearing. If this is the problem you will likely have to replace the slides too. The wizards have a ten year warranty. The bearing is part number WE3M26 and the slides probably need 3 or 4 of them are we1m333. Hope this helps.

Dec 11, 2008 | GE Profile Wizard DPSE592EAWW Electric...

1 Answer

Squeeking noise


Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Feb 09, 2008 | GE DBXR463GB Gas Dryer

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