- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If it is an electric dryer, the first thing to check is if you have 240 Volt going into the dryer, and 120 Volt from either "outside" terminal to the "center " terminal. If you have that, you would have to run down all the wiring and look for loose connections, burnt terminals, etc.
sounds like youve lost one leg of power to the unit, the element uses 240 volts and the motor and timer are connected one on each 120 volt leg to balance out the electrical load chk your input power for 240volts first
THE DRYER HEATER OPERATES ON 240VOLTS. CHECK TO BE SURE YOU HAVE 240 VOLTS AT THE OUTLET. WITH ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT, THE MOTOR WILL RUN ON 120 VOLTS, BUT THE HEAT CIRCUIT WILL NOT.
MOST DRYERS HAVE A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT NEAR THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. SOME HAVE A THERMAL FUSE AS WELL. THE HIGH LIMIT WILL CYCLE, BUT THE THERMAL FUSE WILL NOT RESET. CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE HEATER TERMINALS. IF YOU HAVE IT, THE HEATER IS BAD. IF NOT, TRACE BACK THROUGH THE CIRCUIT UNTIL YOU FIND THE COMPONENT WITH THE 240 VOLTS ACROSS IT. THAT WILL BE THE BAD COMPONENT.
MAKE SURE THE SELECTOR SWITCH IS SET FOR HEAT. OITHER ITEM IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT: CYCLING THERMOSTAT, TIMER, SELECTOR SWITCH, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH.
Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous. Testing voltage
output requires working with electrical current. Do not attempt this measurement
without the proper tools and safeguards . To measure the voltage at an electrical outlet requires the use of a
multimeter. Always test your test equipment for proper operation before use.
Set the multimeter to AC voltage. The markings may appear as VAC, AC V, or a
V beneath a wavy line. Choose the AC voltage closest to the voltage you will
measure. Standard current in home and businesses in the USA is in the range of
110 to 120 volts. Some circuits used for equipment such as dryers, air
conditioners, electric stoves, ovens and other large equipment may use voltage
in the range of 220 to 240 volts. These heavy-duty circuits can be identified by
their non-standard outlet plugs.
While grasping the insulated portion of the probes (never touch the metal
conductor during testing) place one probe into each of the two terminals. The
multimeter will display the voltage. Carefully remove the probes, being careful not to touch the metal part of the
probes to anything or each other.
The voltage should typically test in the range of 108 to 121 volts for most
circuits. If voltage is higher or lower, professional electrical service may be
possible voltage issue be sure you have steady 240 at 2 outside screws on ac connection next ck timer quick ck unplug dryer remove console cover short large red and black wires together plug back in and turn on ..possible motor switch ..contacts in motor switch close as motor runs supplying one side of element with other 110 volts
if this is a 240 volt dryer with a volt meter set on 240 volts or higher ac touch a meter lead to the two outside screws on the terminal block you if connected right get 240 volts
from each outside screw to center screw 120 volts ac
NO HEAT, CHECK THE FOLLOWING:
1. CHECK SETTINGS OF THE SELECTOR SWITCH. MAKE SURE A HEAT SETTING HAS BEEN SELECTED.
2. IF IT IS AN ELECTRIC DRYER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET.
3. CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT WHILE THE DRYER IS RUNNING. IF NO 240 VOLTS, TRACE WIRING BACK TO OTHER COMPONENTS OF THE HEAT CIRCUIT. WHEN YOU FIND 240 VOLTS ACROSS THAT COMPONENT, THAT IS THE BAD ITEM.
4. CHECK FOR BURNT WIRES IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT. (HEATER, THERMOSTAT, HIGH LIMIT THERMO, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, TIMER, THERMAL FUSE).
CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET. A DRYER WILL RUN ON HALF THE 240 VOLT CIRCUIT BUT WON'T HEAT.
IF THE VOLTAGE IS THERE, CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE HEATER. IF IT IS THERE AT THE TERMINALS OF THE HEATER, AND THERE IS NO HEAT, THE HEATER IS BAD.
IF NO VOLTAGE IS PRESENT, TRACE BACKWARDS THROUGH THE HEAT CIRCUIT AND CHECK EACH COMPONENT IN THAT CIRCUIT. IF ONE OF THEM HAS 240 VOLTS PRESENT, THAT IS THE BAD COMPONENT.
POSSIBILITIES ARE, HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT, CYCLING THERMOSTAT, THERMAL FUSE, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, HEAT SELECTOR SWITCH, TIMER. POWER CORD.
CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET. THE DRYER WILL RUN WITH ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE 240VOLT CIRCUIT BUT THE DRYER WON'T HEAT.
IF YOU OWN A METER AND KNOW HOW TO USE IT, TAKE THE BACK PANEL OFF OF THE DRYER AND FIND THE HEATER ON THE RIGHT SIDE FACING THE BACK OF THE DRYER(WHIRLPOOL AND KENMORE DRYERS).
CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE TWO TERMINALS OF THE HEATER. IT WILL BE THE TWO TERMINALS LOWEST TO THE GROUND AND HAS TWO RED WIRES ATTACHED TO THEM. IF NO 240VOLTS, BACK TRACK THROUGH THE CIRCUIT AND CHECK EACH ITEM YOU COME TO. IF YOU FIND 240VOLTS, THAT IS THE BAD PART.
FOR MAYTAG PRODUCTS, REMOVE TWO SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM FRONT OF THE DRYER AND SWING THE BOTTOM OUT UNTIL THE CLIPS DISENGAGE FROM THE TOP. SET IT ASIDE. THE HEATER IS LOCATED IN A TUBE AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF THE INSIDE. CHECK IT THE SAME WAY.
THE FIRST THING TO CHECK IS YOUR POWER. THE OUTLET HAS TWO ANGLED HOLES THAT SHOULD TOTAL 240VOLTS ACROSS THEM. THE L SHAPED HOLE IS THE GROUND AND THERE SHOULD BE 120VOLTS FROM EACH ANGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE. THE DRYER'S MOTOR ONLY RUNS ON 120 VOLTS ( FROM ONE ANLGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE). THE HEATING ELEMENT CIRCUIT RUNS FROM ONE ANGLED HOLE TO THE OTHER(240VOLTS)
THE DRYER WILL RUN BUT NOT HEAT WITH ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPPED.
IF POWER IS O.K., THE NEXT THING TO DO IS PULL THE BACK PANEL OFF OF THE DRYER. THE HEAT ELEMENT IS IN A BOX ON THE RIGHT SIDE WITH TWO RED WIRES GOING DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. IF YOU HAVE A METER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE TWO WIRES ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE HEATER. IF YOU HAVE
240VOLTS THERE, THE HEATER IS BAD. IF NOT, THE ROUND ITEM NEAR THE BOTTOM IS A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT. IF YOU HAVE 240VOLTS AT THE TWO TERMINALS ON THE THERMOSTAT, IT IS BAD. PART #
279769 COMES WITH THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT AND THE THERMAL FUSE FOUND AT THE TOP OF THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. CHECK THE THERMAL FUSE THE SAME WAY.
IF IT IS BAD, YOU WILL SEE 240VOLTS ACROSS IT.
IF ALL THOSE COMPONENTS ARE GOOD, IT COULD BE THE TIMER, TEMP SELECTOR SWITCH, OR THE MOTOR'S CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH. YOU WOULD HAVE TO READ THE WIRING DIAGRAM INSIDE THE CONTROL PANEL TO CHECK THOSE ITEMS.