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Question is a bit vague, does this apply to your washer dryer? This seems to imply that the appliance will need to have the 240v option selected on the appliance before it's connected to 230v. It's NOT the same as a device which can accept between 110- 250 volts, it's 120 OR 240 ( 240 is to all intents the same as 230). My answer is NO
The reason for the 120/240 volt outlet is to be able to run things like large electric heaters or even your clothes dryer as they all require 240 volts. If you use it as 240 volts you will not have maximum current output on your other outlets so you wouldn't be able to plug anything really big in. And yes you can only use is as a 120V output if you would like but you will need a special attachment or extension cord. I'm going to leave you with two reference pages I looked up that you should have a look at.
Are you connecting this Dryer cord to the Dryer or are you looking for a wall plug with this same configuration to plug into. This is a standard double ground configuration and you can buy the wall receptacle at a hardware store. Your house should have 4 wires to this, 2 lines, a neutral, and a ground. As always the recommendation is that you have an electrician install your house receptacle. Your Dryer power cord is something you can install however. The two outside terminals on your dryer 240 volt wiring block are connected to the two outside wires on your power cord. It does not matter which wire goes to which side. Your two inside wires on the power cord are connected like this. One to the middle terminal on your 240 volt dryer terminal block and one is connected to the dryer case itself. Again it does not matter which wire goes to which ground. Make sure all of your connections are tight, as loose terminals eventually burn up. Do Not plug in your dryer power cord until everything is hooked up tight. I actually had a customer plug in his cord and then try to connect the wires to the dryer. The wires arced together and blew the terminals into molten metal which burned this customers hands and face. Do not do and electical repair unless you know what you are doing. On your cord the two straight terminals are line terminals, the round and L shaped terminals are grounds or neutrals. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
please 200- 240 volts is a standard for all and for the breaker is depending of the country if 120 v single phase you will install as usa if 220 v single also you can connect you breaker but the problem is some countries are not 50 hz comfirm the unit is 50/60 hz.
sounds like youve lost one leg of power to the unit, the element uses 240 volts and the motor and timer are connected one on each 120 volt leg to balance out the electrical load chk your input power for 240volts first
Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous. Testing voltage
output requires working with electrical current. Do not attempt this measurement
without the proper tools and safeguards . To measure the voltage at an electrical outlet requires the use of a
multimeter. Always test your test equipment for proper operation before use.
Set the multimeter to AC voltage. The markings may appear as VAC, AC V, or a
V beneath a wavy line. Choose the AC voltage closest to the voltage you will
measure. Standard current in home and businesses in the USA is in the range of
110 to 120 volts. Some circuits used for equipment such as dryers, air
conditioners, electric stoves, ovens and other large equipment may use voltage
in the range of 220 to 240 volts. These heavy-duty circuits can be identified by
their non-standard outlet plugs.
While grasping the insulated portion of the probes (never touch the metal
conductor during testing) place one probe into each of the two terminals. The
multimeter will display the voltage. Carefully remove the probes, being careful not to touch the metal part of the
probes to anything or each other.
The voltage should typically test in the range of 108 to 121 volts for most
circuits. If voltage is higher or lower, professional electrical service may be
possible voltage issue be sure you have steady 240 at 2 outside screws on ac connection next ck timer quick ck unplug dryer remove console cover short large red and black wires together plug back in and turn on ..possible motor switch ..contacts in motor switch close as motor runs supplying one side of element with other 110 volts
NO HEAT, CHECK THE FOLLOWING:
1. CHECK SETTINGS OF THE SELECTOR SWITCH. MAKE SURE A HEAT SETTING HAS BEEN SELECTED.
2. IF IT IS AN ELECTRIC DRYER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET.
3. CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT WHILE THE DRYER IS RUNNING. IF NO 240 VOLTS, TRACE WIRING BACK TO OTHER COMPONENTS OF THE HEAT CIRCUIT. WHEN YOU FIND 240 VOLTS ACROSS THAT COMPONENT, THAT IS THE BAD ITEM.
4. CHECK FOR BURNT WIRES IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT. (HEATER, THERMOSTAT, HIGH LIMIT THERMO, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, TIMER, THERMAL FUSE).
CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET. THE DRYER WILL RUN WITH ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE 240VOLT CIRCUIT BUT THE DRYER WON'T HEAT.
IF YOU OWN A METER AND KNOW HOW TO USE IT, TAKE THE BACK PANEL OFF OF THE DRYER AND FIND THE HEATER ON THE RIGHT SIDE FACING THE BACK OF THE DRYER(WHIRLPOOL AND KENMORE DRYERS).
CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE TWO TERMINALS OF THE HEATER. IT WILL BE THE TWO TERMINALS LOWEST TO THE GROUND AND HAS TWO RED WIRES ATTACHED TO THEM. IF NO 240VOLTS, BACK TRACK THROUGH THE CIRCUIT AND CHECK EACH ITEM YOU COME TO. IF YOU FIND 240VOLTS, THAT IS THE BAD PART.
FOR MAYTAG PRODUCTS, REMOVE TWO SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM FRONT OF THE DRYER AND SWING THE BOTTOM OUT UNTIL THE CLIPS DISENGAGE FROM THE TOP. SET IT ASIDE. THE HEATER IS LOCATED IN A TUBE AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF THE INSIDE. CHECK IT THE SAME WAY.
THE FIRST THING TO CHECK IS YOUR POWER. THE OUTLET HAS TWO ANGLED HOLES THAT SHOULD TOTAL 240VOLTS ACROSS THEM. THE L SHAPED HOLE IS THE GROUND AND THERE SHOULD BE 120VOLTS FROM EACH ANGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE. THE DRYER'S MOTOR ONLY RUNS ON 120 VOLTS ( FROM ONE ANLGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE). THE HEATING ELEMENT CIRCUIT RUNS FROM ONE ANGLED HOLE TO THE OTHER(240VOLTS)
THE DRYER WILL RUN BUT NOT HEAT WITH ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPPED.
IF POWER IS O.K., THE NEXT THING TO DO IS PULL THE BACK PANEL OFF OF THE DRYER. THE HEAT ELEMENT IS IN A BOX ON THE RIGHT SIDE WITH TWO RED WIRES GOING DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. IF YOU HAVE A METER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE TWO WIRES ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE HEATER. IF YOU HAVE
240VOLTS THERE, THE HEATER IS BAD. IF NOT, THE ROUND ITEM NEAR THE BOTTOM IS A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT. IF YOU HAVE 240VOLTS AT THE TWO TERMINALS ON THE THERMOSTAT, IT IS BAD. PART #
279769 COMES WITH THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT AND THE THERMAL FUSE FOUND AT THE TOP OF THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. CHECK THE THERMAL FUSE THE SAME WAY.
IF IT IS BAD, YOU WILL SEE 240VOLTS ACROSS IT.
IF ALL THOSE COMPONENTS ARE GOOD, IT COULD BE THE TIMER, TEMP SELECTOR SWITCH, OR THE MOTOR'S CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH. YOU WOULD HAVE TO READ THE WIRING DIAGRAM INSIDE THE CONTROL PANEL TO CHECK THOSE ITEMS.