Question about Kenmore Refrigerators
My refriderator even though the motor was running or say working generated no cold or freon
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I don't know this particular frig, but evidently the defroster doesn't work. Frost buildup has blocked the flow of cold air.
There is a defrost timer, under the frig, accessible from the front. You can turn it with a screw driver. Turn it till you hear a click. If the timer hasn't been turning, that should turn on the defroster, a heating element nested among the freezer coils. Wait half an hour and if it is defrosting, water should be dripping into the drip pan underneath the frig. If so, then replace the defrost timer and you're good to go.
If that doesn't make it defrost, then the problem is probably the defrost thermostat, in with the freezer coils. When the frig defrosts, the defrost heater stays on until the defrost thermostat gets warm. It should be open circuit while warm. But if it is open circuit while cold, it is bad and is the cause of your defrost problem.
If you open up the freezer coils, use a hair dryer to defrost. That is safer than hot water.
Hope you can fix it.
Posted on Aug 01, 2008
Setting it to 5 is what the manufacturer recommends. If you set it to 1 and the frig is still not cold, then you probably have a faulty cold control (thermostat)
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. A ball of ice on the coils and the rest of the cooling coils are bare or only a few coils frosted a little and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture one, example picture two, example picture three. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
Your refrigerator has a defrost timer located near the floor and behind the kick plate. Remove the kick plate grill and turn the timer slowly clockwise until refrigerator compressor stops running. Leave it there for about 30 minutes or until refrigerator restarts. During this time the refrigerator should be in the defrost cycle. Open the freezer and you will possibly hear a crackling noise or the noise of water sizzling as it drips from the evaporator to the defrost heater. If your refrigerator does not restart after this time then turn the timer again slowly until the compressor restarts. If you do this then the timer will need replaced If no defrost takes place during this time then we need to move to the rear of the freezer and unplug the refrigerator and do some test on the defrost heater. Let me know how this worked out for you. The part number for your defrost timer is 10530703
Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 19, 2015 | 2010 Dodge Journey
Jan 04, 2015 | Refrigerators
May 05, 2014 | GE GSS22SGM Side by Side Refrigerator
Jan 01, 2014 | Refrigerators
Sep 03, 2011 | 2000 Dodge Durango
Jun 28, 2011 | Whirlpool ET1MHKXM Top Freezer...
Jun 19, 2010 | Freezers
Oct 07, 2009 | U-Line ?chelon 2175RB-00
Jul 30, 2008 | 2001 Buick LeSabre
41 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!