Question about Hotpoint 24 in. FDW60 Free-standing Dishwasher
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem with my machine - ie lots of water coming out front about two thirds of the way through the cycle - engineer (local and very reliable) knew as soon as he came in that I had started bying Powerball 5 dishwasher tablets - they produce too much foam (try opening the door during the cycle and see the amount of foam) and it therefore comes out of the overflow parts on the door. I tried Magnum 5 and got the same problem. Now I stick to either Asda's own basic (not the 5) or I buy the Magnum ones and cut them in half. Has never leaked since!
Posted on Aug 25, 2007
When you switch it on can you still select the wash type ?
If you can, when you shut the door does it start the cycle normally by pumping out the sump, but then when the wash pump (the cause of the main noise during the cycle) would normally start it stops and beeps - opening the door then shows the flashing error code ?
If your symptoms are the same as above or similar, suspect the heater is stuffed. My BFI62 did the above and it turned out to be a faulty (open circuit) heater. As I had no knowledge of dishwashers at the time, I called in a repair guy. As soon as he saw the fault code he suspected the heater - seems a batch of heaters (from the USA) had proved very unreliable (apparently Hotpoint got compensation from the manufacturers because of the number of problems it caused them). The replacement was made in Germany and the repair guy said he'd not known one of those to go faulty !
The repair guy diagnosed the heater open circuit from the control panel inside the door without even removing the dishwasher from it's location. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to note which wires ran off the board to the heater. Changing the heater needed it out and on it's side (be prepared for quite a lot of water on the floor).
Finally, when he'd fitted the new heater, it took him two goes to get the pipes either side of it to seal properly - quite common apparently and the source of even more water on the floor !
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 01, 2008
here are the fault codes for your machine...
Fault codes for LCD Dishwasher Models
Hope this helps?
Posted on Feb 05, 2008
SOURCE: hotpoint fdw20p dishwasher
You need the control panel to reset before anything else can happen. To do this TURN OFF THE PLUG SOCKET FIRST AND UNPLUG. Then you need to drain ALL the water from the machine. Turn off the water supply feed and place the wastage pipe as low to the floor as poss ( 1-2" off floor). Water will gush out so use a large shallow tray and keep emptying the tray. Tilt the dishwasher over slightly to make sure all the water is out.
This will allow the control panel to reset itself which wouldn't normally happen if the base of the dishwasher was holding even a small amount of water.
Re connect the water, plug back in , select the RESET setting on the dial and close the door and switch on.
Leave for about 20 seconds and then turn off.
Rotate the selector switch to "A" Intensive wash and switch
I found this on another site and it really did work for me
Posted on Feb 23, 2008
SOURCE: HOTPOINT DISHWASHER FDW60
I have just had my dishwasher fixed by Hotpoint, as the heater was working and the dishwasher only stopped with the fast and delicate lights just before the drying process he replaced the main control board. This has solved the problem, I suspected the fault to be the thermistor as the heater seemed to be getting to hot but I had no idea where it was.
It turns out the thermistor is attached to the main control board and hangs down behind the front door that gives just a rough temperature level for the main control board.
As it's soldered directly onto the control board I would suggest replacing the whole control pcb for anyone with this fault unless you can find any spec details for the thermistor.
Posted on Mar 23, 2008
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