Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
If there is power to the timer and still it does not move on, check the door switch . If not there is fault in the program controller timer unit. Please check the cost and estimate.
Posted on Jan 18, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Washer, Loose Timer Knob
There should be a spring clip that holds the timer knob on. It or the timer knob may need replaced. Here is a picture of the timer knob and the spring clip. Sure hope this helps and best wishes.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
I cannot guarantee that this will help, but I was able to fix my front loading Kenmore Model 417.44052401 only because of helpful people in internet forums.
First of all, there is an extremely helpful troubleshooting guide on applianceaide.com. It describes Frigidaire Washers, but Kenmore is made by Frigidaire, so it will work. You can find it here:
Anyway, here's my story:
Wife washed some clothes, but when it was time to drain and spin, nothing but a buzzing sound came from the machine. She got worried that something would burn up, and cancelled the wash cycle. She had to take the wet soapy clothes to her mom's to rewash.
I drained all the water in the tub out with a small cup.
Then I got on the internet and found the aforementioned help guide on applianceaid.com. I ran the diagnostic, and it indicated Error 31, which was the pressure sensor reporting that there wasn't enough pressure.
I had also read on another forum where, someone had a very similar problem, and he found something crazy like a superhero arm in the impeller in his pump. He removed the rubber boot that connects several of the hoses to the pump, and voila, he found said object and some loose change.
Earlier, my Wife had told me that she thought the underwire from a bra must be stuck in the machine somewhere because one of them came out torn and missing the underwire.
So, I disconnected the rubber boot, just as the other guy had done, and sure enough, there was the metal underwire, and about 10 dimes & pennies. Apparently, the underwire was stuck in the impeller and would not allow it to spin so that it could **** the water into the pump and send it down the drain.
Disassembling it was the easy part.
It took my wife and I about an hour and a half just to get the "boot" hooked back up to two hoses and a tube. My big clumsy hands could not get the job done, but my wife's small hands were able to get the hoses reconnected while I held the hose clamps open with a pair of vice grips.
It was not a complicated job at all in theory, but it was hard to reconnect everything. But, we got it done and didn't have to spend a dime. In fact, we found about 35 cents or so. LOL. It cost me about 4 hours of my time, but it was well worth it.
After everything was reconnected and reassembled, I ran the diagnostics again, and this time, at stage 9, where it had previously failed, it passed with flying colors! Yay!
I just finished washing a load of towels that we dirtied when we opened the "boot" and all the water I could not scoop out earlier came rushing out. Worked with no problems.
Hope this helps someone.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
This a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The brake on these washers is driven by the clutch on top of the transmission.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
If the washer drains the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again or stopping and starting the cycle knob, and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, or stopping and starting the washer torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Nov 16, 2009
I HAVE A KENMORE FRONT LOADER WASHER. MODEL 41743042200 AND IT MAKES A NOISE WHEN IN THE SPIN CYCLE, THIS ONLY HAPPENS WHEN SPINNING. CAN SOMEONE HELP
Posted on May 26, 2010
It appears your timer has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
Posted on Sep 12, 2010
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