Question about Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do remove the front of my washer model number 110.88752796

How do i remove the front of the washer on a strackable unit kenmore model numer 110.88752796

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 17,129 Answers

Please check this link: Removing front Panel

Posted on Jan 18, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Need to purchase CCU for Kenmore Elite 45966 Front Load Washer

try here http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/smartsearch.aspx

Posted on Jan 11, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: I have a kenmore front load washer model number 4174104200 and water is leaking onto floor

Can you describe WHERE the leak may be coming from? If the leak is coming from the front area of the washer, it may be the door bellow (rubber gasket), or the drain pump. You will need to open the door and pull back the folds in the rubber gasket and inspect for cracks or tears in the rubber. To inspect the pump, you need to remove the bottom panel under the door and look for any leaks inside the unit. The drain pump is in the front, directly under the wash tub. Also check all hose connections. If the washer is leaking from the rear area, check the fill hoses and drain hoses for cracks or holes. Make sure all hose connections are tight. The fill valve is another possiblity too. You will need to remove the top panel to view the valve to ensure it is not dripping. Please verify your symptoms and let me know. I hope this helps.

Posted on May 01, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: My Whirlpool Duet Washer, model number WFW9400SW01 will not turn on. The button lock is off and does light up indicating power to the front panel/unit. Any ideas?

if you are mechanical and are not afraid of small wires you can try this. I had the exact same problem on my machine. i very slowly diasssembled the machine. not hard to do. removed the top. unscrews from the back and slides to the back to come off. remove the door. unsnap the plastic plate that goes around the door.it is held on by small snap clip that pop off if you use a small flat screw driver to pry it out. remove detergent tray. and screws that attach it to the inner box. now the hard part. remove the face plate. it unsnaps similar to large door plate.very carefully unclip the circuit boards. they are held in by plastic clips around the outside and white plastic clips in the middle. you must gently pry up and release these clips one at a time. a second person is helpful, so are small needle nose pliers. clean both circuit boards very gently with isopropyl alcohol and qtips. mositen the qtips and clean every inch of the boards. be very careful not to bend or crack anything. you must get all the yellowish flux and any other corrosion growing on the board off. there is one more board that must be cleaned. the power supply board. it is mounted on the top right side near where the face plate wire come through. this is not hard to remove it is held in by small clips. the tricky part is the wires. they are all designed so they cannot be plugged in incorrectly but i have seen what people are capable of. make a map. number them with a sharpie so you know where they go. remove this board and clean it the same way. this on will probably be the worst offender. i cleaned all the boards reassembled and it works like new. below the door is a panel that should also be removed. there is a removable drain filter that should be cleaned out. i found pens and toys in mine. the machine could not pump out the water fast enough and would shut down and trigger f70 and f 20 codes.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Removing a pressure switch (Kenmore HE2 Front Load Washer)

This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.

Water Does Not Shut Off and Overflows: The water level in a washer is controlled by the Pressure Switch. The switch is usually cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached. In many cases, the small air hose comes loose from the Pressure Switch fitting and/or falls off. This air hose is required to detect the air pressure from the wash tub as tub fills. With no air pressure, the switch will not function and the result will be a wash tub that fills continuously to the point of overflowing. The same would be true, if the air hose has any cracks, splits or holes in it.

Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.

What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.

On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the "Load Level", "Load Size" or "Water Level". On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.

How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½" off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.

NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: front loader door boot replacement

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn't cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.


http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbwdbgtqbsqkfbgxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kdtfgttdqxkfqrdrrdq/1/1303472/5961857/image45926img-or.jpg

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 16, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Need to remove front of washer


What is the model number of your unit? Look under the lid for the model.

Nov 01, 2012 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My washer is showing a error code of f-28. What does this mean


The F28 error code in most Kenmore models is a MCU (Motor Control Unit) failure or a wiring issue. You did not include a model number for your washer. Without a complete model number I am unable to supply you with anything other than generic help.

Jan 10, 2011 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Need to replace transmission. How do I remove the necessary parts


Can you provide the exact Make, Model and Kenmore model number? ..........

Kenmore model numbers use the format ###.######## with the first three digits of 110 for Whirlpool manufactured machines.........

The model number on top load washers is usually found by lifting the lid and looking above the tub.

The Fixya numbers are Stock Numbers.

Since basic top load direct drive, top load electronic and front load washers are very different, the actual Model Numbers are necessary to give you an answer.

NOTE: If this is a basic top load, direct drive unit, and you can describe the exact problem, it's usually a lot less expensive (and relatively easy) to repair rather than replace a transmission.


Aug 14, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Im trying to remove the motor assy from my washing machine and am stuck it seems to be free but wont come all the way out it is a kenmore 4544190


Most Kenmore washers are made by whirlpool, though I cannot find the model number you gave (most Kenmore model numbers start with "110." then the rest of the model number) That being said, I'll see if I can help:

If indeed it is the whirlpool style, then when the cover of the washing machine is off, you will see on the front of the motor the drain pump. first that has to be taken off, remove the two clips, remove the two hose clamps and then the hoses off the pump, then (it may take some force) remove the pump.

Once the pump is out of the way, press the tab on the wiring harness connector to the motor and remove the connector from the motor.

Next there are two clips that hold the motor on, one on top and one on bottom. You will need to remove the two screws out of the clips and pop them off with a flat tip screwdriver. You'll have to hold the motor at this time. Twist the clips 90 degrees to remove the out of the way. The only thing now that will be holding the motor is the motor coupling and the rubber grommets to cushion the motor. Now you can pull the motor free from the front of the unit.

If this does not sound like the proper type of machine, Please recheck the model number of the washer.

Oct 29, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

Not finding what you are looking for?
Washing Machines Logo

Related Topics:

110 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Washing Machines Experts

Gerry Harvey
Gerry Harvey

Level 3 Expert

1456 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75077 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

15478 Answers

Are you a Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...