Question about GE GSL25JFPBS Side by Side Refrigerator

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Just replaced mother board on Ge gsl25jfpabs to fix problem with cooling and running constantly. still not cooling but we can hear motor and fan running. no cold air blowing into fridge section. wh

Damper does not seem to be blowing.

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  • Contributor
  • 15 Answers

NEED TO MAKE SURE FRESH FOOD DOOR IS HITTING LIGHT SWITCH TO OFF POSITION IF NOT NEED TO ADJUST DOOR UP ASSUMING THE FREEZER SIDE IS WORKING OK

Posted on Jan 18, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Krames
  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer side cold, frige side warm

Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: the refrigerator section is not cold

Replace the freezer fan motor.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: ge model gsh25jfrfww not cooling just clicking

Replace the main board on the back i got the part for $130 at a wholesale parts store

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge

Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...

Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.

After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.

There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?

If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!

SG


Posted on Apr 05, 2009

tborn6
  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: GE Model GSH22JFTA Top of Fridg and Freezer not cold

check the door gaskets for air leakage

Posted on May 21, 2009

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http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/

http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/

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gee seems to me if your are getting the proper voltage witch you say you are sounds to me like a bad condensor fan motor. is the compressor running, maybe shut off because it was to hot.and you are right the motor voltage is from the board. we have had alot of mother board failures on the ge line. but that would be the problem if you were not getting power to the motor.on some models the power comes from the relay /overload hooked to the compressor. if the compressor doesnt come on and you hear a clicking from it every few minutes then you could have a bad
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the GE refrig has a variable speed fan motor controlled by the mother board located on teh rear of you refrig. the noise your hearing is the fan speed ramping up and down. if this noise is constant its possible the contoller on the mother board is bad and the board needs to be replaced. hope this helps...

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