Question about Acer Aspire 7738-6719 Notebook

1 Answer

Screen flashes on opening top. A slight tap or wrigling back and froward usually fixes it. Suspect it is a cable problem.

Th model number shown above is not exactly correct it shoul be 773G LX.PPC0X.324 but I don't think that matters.

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  • David Balmford Jan 17, 2013

    How do I get at it

  • David Balmford Jan 19, 2013

    The Invoice salls it : Acer Aspire 7738,AS7738G-734G50MN and also LX.PCC0X.324. Hope that can identify it.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 20, 2013 Just wanted to be sure this is indeed the laptop in question, David. A) Remove ALL power. Remove the AC adapter (Charger), and Battery. B) Don your ESD wrist strap. Connect it's alligator clip to a good ground source. I connect to an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of an empty desktop computer case. I feel an Anti-Static Mat is unwarranted. (Can expound on this if you like) You can set a large metal serving tray, (Unpainted), on the table you're working on; and connect to it. Or perhaps a large metal knickknack (Unpainted) Do not relieve your body of Static, and you can use your laptop for an expensive doorstop. (Or Frisbee. "Wow. Look at that thing GO!") Average cost is around $3 to $6. C) Laptop closed, turn it over, set it on the table. I suggest using a soft static free cloth, to protect the table, and the laptop.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 20, 2013

    D) Battery Compartment facing away from you remove two Philips head screws from the large panel, and remove the panel. If your model has a second Harddrive (HDD2) remove the HDD2 panel. (Two Philips head screws) The Harddrive is contained in a sheet metal Harddrive Caddy. Slide the caddy towards the outside of the laptop, by it's silk strap. Lift ON the side of the laptop OPPOSITE the contact pins; at an angle. Then remove the harddrive. (There is sufficient space when the harddrive is slid over, so that the contact pins will not be broken, or bent? Go ahead then, and lift on the contact pin/motherboard side. I just like to guide based on it may not be this way, and refrain from having someone who has no knowledge of this procedure, bending or breaking the contact pins )

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 20, 2013

    E) Remove all Ram Memory modules. ('Stick') Lay them aside in a Static free environment. F) In the large panel compartment area, you will also see the Wireless Module. Has Two terminals, and two wires connect. One Black, one White. They MUST go back to the same terminals. You may wish to make a small mark on the White wire, and a matching mark on the Wireless Module terminal the white wire goes to. (Sharpee?) Remove the Wireless Module. The wires are Wireless Antenna wires. They lead up through the laptop, through Channels and Latches. They MUST go back through the same route of Channels and Latches when reassembling, or the laptop will not go back together correctly; and/or the wires may become pinched, and damaged. Make notes, and drawing, or photograph with good lighting. (The Wireless Antenna wires lead up into the Display Assembly, and connect to the Wireless Antenna)

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 20, 2013

    EDIT: 1) May be a 3-wire Wireless Module, or 2-wire. Make notes as to where those wires go. 2) The large panel is the Back Panel. Forgot to post previously. Moving on; G) Remove the main Harddrive. HDD1. H) Remove the TV Tuner Card's black antenna cable. (Wire) Remove the one Philips head screw in the corner, that holds the TV Tuner Card in place, and remove the TV Tuner Card.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 20, 2013

    IF the laptop came with this option. (I'm typing in a 'ticker-tape' format, and this is SO much fun(?) I) The Back Panel has a rectangular shape going horizontally, and vertically. Looking at the vertical part look to the Left/Middle. (Upper middle) There is one Philips head screw to remove, then the Optical Drive is slid out, and removed. J) There are 15 screws to remove going around the outside perimeter of the bottom; of the laptop. HERE, you can use a magnetic Philips head screwdriver, and remove those screws. ANYWHERE intenally in the laptop = NO, for a magnetized screwdriver, IMHO. Screw doesn't come out? Hold your hand over the screw hole, and slowly turn the laptop over. Tap with a fingertip lightly for more 'encouragement'. Still no? You'll get it/them when the Middle Cover is removed, and the Upper Cover. (Palm Rest Cover) {Just make sure the screw/s are loosened all the way) If the laptop comes with a second Harddrive, (HDD2), there is one Philips head screw to remove DOWN IN the harddrive compartment. Looking down in the HDD2 compartment, there is a hole shaped like a backwards D. To the immediate right is a strip of plastic. The screw is right above that vertical strip, and also to the Top/Right corner of the backwards D-shaped hole. J) Turn the laptop over, back to it's normal position. Open the laptop's Display Assembly, as far back as allowable. I suggest cutting a piece of thick construction paper, or equivalent; to just fit the inside edges of the Display Bezel. Helps prevent accidental damage to the LCD screen. The Middle Cover is the strip of wide plastic, above the Keyboard, and below the LCD screen. Carefully lift the Middle Cover to a standing position, ON the LCD screen side. There are still THREE cables attached to the Middle Cover. Roll the Top (LCD screen side) over, so the Middle Cover is upside down; and lay on the Keyboard. To the Immediate LEFT of the right speaker, is the DC IN power cable. Small white connector. To the Immediate left of it, is the Video Cable connector TO motherboard. Connector is longer than the DC IN connector. Motherboard connector is Black. Video Cable plug is White. IS it plugged in tightly? No, yiu CANNOT just perform a visual inspection. You MUST try to physically plug the cable in tighter. (At this point you can decide to see if that was the problem. Reinstall harddrive/s, wireless module, cables, Ram Memory, etc. Suggest leave the screws out for now. Reinstall the Battery, and AC adapter. Plug AC adapter into power. Turn the laptop on. For my money David, I wouldn't. I would go on ) Do you see any apparent damage to the sheath of the Video Cable? (Acer = LCD Cable) If there is apparent damage to the sheath of the cable, also suspect damage to the tiny wires inside. (Stretched/Broken) No? Go on. LCD screen side of the LCD Cable. (Video Cable) There are FOUR Screw Covers going across the Top. These are gently removed with a computer pick, or similar tool. (Be aware that one slip with a metal tool, may rake right across the LCD screen. Paper protection helps, but lets use caution here) Pick at the base of the Screw Cover, lift up. May take a couple of tries. Remove the TWO Screw Covers at the Bottom. One above EACH hinge cover. Remove all 6 Philips head screws. Remove one each screw from the hinge covers. (Facing the hinge covers they are right in the middle) The thin plastic frame in front of the LCD screen, is the Display Bezel. The Display Bezel has TABS going around the inside edge, of it's perimeter. The Display Cover has matching LATCHES, that the Tabs snap into. (Top cover when laptop is closed) The Display Bezel is made of space-age plastic. Pretty tough stuff, use care and you won't break it. When the Tabs/Latches are releasing, you'll hear snap, snap, snap. Suggest removing the Display Bezel at the Top/Right. In an area in-between the Middle of the Top, and the Right corner; of the Top. Lift on the Inside edge of the Display Bezel. It's flexible, but at this point you are just getting one fingertip under the bezel. (Can't get under? Move over a little. You may be at a Tab/Latch) Now move over about two inches towards the Middle, and place a fingertip underneath. Gently flex up on the Display Bezel, with these two fingertips. A Tab/Latch should release. Keep moving in this manner towards the Top/Left side. Go around DOWN on the Left side. Come back, and go around DOWN the Right side. When the Display Bezel has had enough Tabs/Latches released, the Display Bezel will pop off. Lay it aside. (Use a tool? You can use a thick plastic guitar pick, to start with. Then fingertips. Use a metal tool? NO. The top has the web camera, and Microphone, and their respective cables. (Wires) DO NOT use a metal tool ] Have not had this model series in my shop. (Yet) From reviews it states LED backlighting is used. When LED backlight technology first came out, there were models that used a screen Inverter. A screen Inverter converts the power (Electricity), of the laptop; for the LCD screen, and Backlight. Newer LED technology seems to have done away with using a screen Inverter. Point? If there is a screen Inverter used, it is a small circuit board, and located behind the Display Bezel, and mounted towards the bottom of the LCD screen. If you have one I would like you to take notice. If the LCD Cable (Video Cable) is found to be good, this IS the next component to replace. Going further; To test a screen Inverter requires a Sensitive multimeter. Read fairly expensive, and not something everyone has laying around. For this reason; the ease of accessibility, and usually the low cost; the screen Inverter is usually just replaced. Not the problem? Then the problem is the LCD screen. IMHO better to waste $12 to $20, replacing an unneeded screen Inverter, than to assume the fault is the LCD screen; and spend $60 to $100, and find the problem was the screen Inverter.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 20, 2013

    Yep! This ticker-tape format is gonna 'kill' me! lol! Sheesh. Second harddrive (HDD2) removed. THEN look down in the Harddrive compartment for the single Philips head screw. Carefully lift the Middle Cover ON the LCD screen side; to a standing position. Roll the Top over towards you, lay the Middle Cover on the Keyboard. Also apologize besides my 'prattle', that this is also tough to read. In the Solution area I can break it down into paragraphs. Not in the Comment section. NOW, going on; This is the screen Inverter test. The LCD screen (Acer = LCD panel) can be removed with the Brackets still attached. All you are trying to do at this point is tilt the LCD screen forward far enough, that you can physically check the tightness of the connector, on the back of the LCD screen. WATCH the length of the LCD Cable, and make sure performing this procedure does NOT pull on it. If so the LCD screen/Brackets will have to be removed as an assembly, and moved towards the LCD Cable connection at the motherboard. We're trying to 'cheat' here, and leave most of everything connected. Then test the unit by turning it on, (After replacing the main components, Battery, and AC adapter), to see if loose connections was the problem. No? Still same problem? Then remove the LCD Cable. You need to peform a continuity test with a multimeter set to OHM's; or have it done. You can take the LCD Cable down to the nearset small computer shop, and have the resident tech check it for continuity. Should only be a coupla' bucks. LCD Cable checks out? Then as I previously stated go to the screen Inverter. No screen Inverter? Problem is the LCD screen. Screen Inverter has been replaced, and problem still exists? Problem is the LCD screen.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 20, 2013

    There is a step that has been left out of this diagnostic flowchart. Testing to see if the graphics chipset, (Mounting usually), is the problem. I have assumed, and so have you; that the LCD Cable (Video Cable), is the problem. Bad on my part. The first of this diagnosis should be to; Laptop OFF, monitor OFF, connect a VGA monitor to the VGA port, on the Left side of the laptop. This is an example of a VGA Cable, and VGA connector (Port), Scroll down a little for VGA Cable example. You can use a CRT type of monitor, (Looks like a small TV), or a flat LCD screen monitor of it has a VGA cable. Turn the monitor on. If a CRT type allow it to warm up. Turn the laptop on. By factory default settings the display should show on the external VGA monitor. IF not; there are at least 3 display options; 1) Internal monitor of laptop ONLY. 2) Internal monitor of laptop AND external VGA monitor. 3) External VGA monitor ONLY. Press, and hold down on the Fn key, and at the same time tap once on the F5 key. (The F5 key is the Display Toggle-Over key) Nothing on external VGA monitor? Hold the Fn key down again, and tap once more on the F5 key. NO display on external monitor means a problem with the graphics chipset. (Mounting to motherboard. The graphics chipset is soldered to the motherboard with a BGA surface mount. Ball Grid Array) Could this graphics chipset be mounted on a graphics adapter card; which uses the MXM technology? Actually is a removable/replaceable graphics card, and not soldered to the motherboard? Yes. You will know if it's an option that was used for your laptop. I would like to know also> Post back in a Comment. For additional questions please post in a Comment. Regards, joecoolvette

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 20, 2013

    Metal tools = NO, Service Manual -> It's in PDF file form. At the Top is the page number box. Numbers in this box DO NOT match the actual manual page numbers. It is off by 8. Page 58 in the page number box at Top; is actually page number 50 for the manual. Go to Page 65 - Removing the Middle Cover. This is for the motherboard side connector of the LCD Cable. Page 92 - Removing the LCD Bezel, (Display Bezel) for the LCD screen side connector of the LCD Cable. (Back of LCD screen) Page 96- Removing the LCD Panel with Brackets; is for tilting the LCD screen forward enough to access LCD Cable connection, at back of LCD screen. (Also to access screen Inverter IF used)


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  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 19, 2013

    David, post the entire model number. Need to know Exactly what Aspire model we're working with.

  • David Balmford Jan 19, 2013

    I have left the screen in the "open" position for 2 days and it is still working perfectly.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Jan 20, 2013

    Doesn't mean anything David, because it is based on an assumption. You assume the problem is the LCD Cable. I also concur, but in reality a diagnosis should be performed to KNOW what the problem is, and repair it. JMHO.


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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I can only see half of my screen

I suggest you have a bad LCD screen.

HOWEVER the procedure is to diagnose, and not spend money foolishly.

I need to know the laptop manufacturer name, and model number.
I cannot for the life of me believe FixYa would not ask for this, as a general requirement.

The model number is on the Bottom of the laptop.
Post back in a Comment.

In the meantime,

1) Check the graphics chipset first.
Connect a VGA monitor to the VGA port, on the laptop.
If the VGA monitor shows the same horizontal split of the LCD screen, then your graphics chipset is bad.

Laptop OFF, monitor OFF, connect a VGA monitor to the VGA port, on the laptop.
This is an example of a VGA Cable, and VGA connector (Port),

Scroll down a little for an example of a VGA Cable.

You can use a CRT type of monitor (Looks like a small TV), or a flat LCD screen monitor if it has a VGA cable.

Turn the monitor on. If a CRT type allow it to warm up.
Turn the laptop on.
By factory default settings the display should show on the external monitor.
IF not;

There are at least 3 display options;
A) Internal monitor of laptop ONLY.
B) Internal monitor of laptop AND external VGA monitor.
C) External VGA monitor ONLY.

Here's where it gets rough, Dawn;
Hold the Fn key down, and at the same time tap once on the Display Toggle-Over key.

What key is that? Dunno. Laptop manufacturer name, and model number wasn't stated.
HP is usually the F4 key.
Acer? F5 key
Lenovo/IBM? F10 key.

The F key at top should have a monitor outline symbol, and an arrow on one side; for the Display Toggle-Over key.
No display on external VGA monitor?
Hold the Fn key down again, and tap once more on the Display Toggle-Over key.

Same display of internal monitor on the external VGA monitor?
Bad graphics chipset. Actually it is probably the MOUNTING of the graphics chipset TO motherboard.
More on that if it is the problem.

Good display on external VGA monitor?
Problem is the Video Cable, or inside the Display Assembly.

2) Video Cable:
The Video Cable connects to the motherboard, (In an area under the Keyboard, or Switch Cover above it), runs under the left Hinge; and up into the Display Assembly.
From there it may have a small cable coming from it, that connects to the screen Inverter.
The main part of the Video Cable then connects to the back of the LCD screen.

CCFL backlighting uses a screen Inverter.
(Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp)
LED backlighting May, or May Not.

Due to repeated normal opening, and closing of the laptop; the Video Cable may become pinched.
This can cause pulling on the Video Cable, and loose connections.

It can also cause damage to the tiny wires inside the sheath, of the Video Cable.
If you see apparent damage to the sheath of the Video Cable, suspect damage to those wires inside.

Loose connection of Video Cable TO motherboard, or TO screen Inverter, (IF used), or back of LCD screen connection.

The procedure is to remove what components are needed from the laptop, to access the motherboard connector side of the Video Cable; and PHYSICALLY check to see if it is plugged in tightly.

{Components may only be the Switch Cover.
Above Keyboard, and below LCD screen. Has the Power On button, indicator LED lights, and perhaps speakers.

May be the Switch Cover AND Keyboard.
May be the Switch Cover, Keyboard, and Palm Rest Cover; in order to access the motherboard connector of the Video Cable }

Disconnect the LCD screen from the Display Cover, to access the LCD screen side connection, of the Video Cable.

Once all connections are proved to be tight, try the laptop again without fully reassembling. See if you can connect everything, with the LCD screen sitting out a little. Perhaps the Switch Cover off, but wires connected.

HOWEVER of you see apparent damage to the sheath of the Video Cable, or if you don't; the Video Cable MUST be ruled out before going on.

Connections tight? Didn't repair the problem? Remove the Video Cable.
A continuity test of the Video Cable must be performed, with a multimeter set to OHM's.
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Not everyone has a multimeter laying around.
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Should only be a couple of bucks.
(They say they can't check it? GET OUTTA THERE!
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Video Cable checks out?
Then the next component to check is the screen Inverter, again IF used.
Problem is to check a screen Inverter requires a sensitive multimeter.
Read fairly expensive,

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