Question about Philips Cineos HTS9800W System
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: red light flashing 6 times
I found the above web site pretty helpful, too (AVForums), and have spent a couple of hours reading that thread.
Seems like the capacitators are often why the power won't come on. Also, some people mentioned that holding a blow dryer to your TV will make it come back on. According to the tech-savvy people that could mean that your "solder joins" are cracked. So when they're cold they'll contract and lost the connection,and when you heat them up, they expand and reconnect where they are supposed to. I'm not tech savvy and this doesn't explain much to me, but it's interesting, and I'm sure somebody will go "aaah, I see...."
I'll quote a post from AVForums:
"The main components that wear out are the capacitors which, with aminimum amount of electronics knowledge and a suitable soldering iron(you need one with a tiny point, preferably a butane gas powered one)and a powerful magnifying glass. This must be self supporting or onethat hangs from a neck cord.
The capacitors and any other parts you need can be purchased very, verycheaply from rswww.com and they offer a free delivery service or, foran extra fee, a next day service!
When you remove the back panel from the TV, you will see a few circuitboards and you need to locate the one for the power supply.
On mine it is really obvious as it is situated at the top just left ofmiddle. They all have numbers printed on the circuit board. Mine are2662 (25V 1000 uF) 2663 and 2664 (both 50V 100uF)
The ones originally fitted are '85 deg C' but it is best to replacethem with ones that are '105 deg C' because they will last longer.
These '85 deg C caps' normally have a guaranteed life of of 1000 hours,whereas the '105 deg C' ones have a guaranteed life of 2000 hours!
This being the case, when Philips build the sets they know that theywill probably break down after a minimum of 1000 hours of use. If wesuppose that the caps last for twice their minimum life span (2000hours) and the TV is switched on for an average of 5 hours per day overthe year one, ore more, of them will probably fail in the secondquarter of the second year.
With this knowledge, for high cost items such as this, you would alwaysbe wise to take out an extended warranty and Philips, or any othermanufacturer, should be obliged to include an information card warningconsumers of this fact!
The Aluminium Electrolytic - Radial capacitors in question are,usually, 2 x 100uF. The voltage, I believe, depends on the screen size.My 42" screen requires 50V whereas the 32" version uses 25V caps.
There is also a larger 1000uF capacitor, of a similar type, that willbe sighted close to the other two. This seems to be 25V, whatever thescreen size!
The only thing you must remember when replacing these caps is that thelonger leg on the capacitor is 'Positive' and the shorter one is'Negative' and you must ensure that you do not damage the circuit track!
If you are careful and have a steady hand it is quite an easy job butif you are not too sure, you will probably be able to find a localrepairer that is able do the job.
However, you have to beware of the Companies that offer a service wherethey come and collect the tv for a set fee, usually just under £100!They then work out the cost of the repairs and, if you give them the goahead, they deduct the amount paid from the overall repair cost.
I have looked into many of these and, even if you agree to the repairestimate, usually in the region of £300, they never seem willing toguarantee the repair for longer than three months, six months at thevery most!
When you consider that these components cost a matter of pence you can see the value of trying to repair it yourself."
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
Don't have a "solution" yet, but found this table that decodes the blinks:
Error Code Table
0 = No error
1 = X-ray protection, E/W protection, and/or Vertical protection active
2 = High beam current protection active
3 = Reserved
4 = +5V protection active
5 = Signal Processor (IC 7150) register corrupted
6 = Signal Processor (IC 7150) error
7 = Total failure
8 = Internal RAM error (Microprocessor IC 7000)
10 = NV memory (IC7088) addressing error
11 = NV memory (IC7088) size error
12 = Histogram (YUV) (IC 7770) error
14 = Sound processor I²C error (TDA9855)
16 = Main Tuner I²C error (IC 1125)
17 = PIP Processor I²C error (IC 7350)
18 = PIP Tuner I²C error (IC 1127)
I, too, have the 6 blinks of a red light. I found another person online that suggested that perhaps the power cord was "defective" as it's a common issue. I replaced the power cord with one from an old computer (they're the same cord) and it seems to be OK now. That's all I can offer you at this time.
Posted on Jan 24, 2010
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Tips for a great answer:
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Start with the headset powered on. Press and hold down
the call control button while also rotating the multi function dial
upward (away from the light) until the indicator light on the headset
starts flashing red then green. When prompted for passkey, enter
For the Plantronics M1000 (discontinued):
Hit and hold the volume/mute switch in until the indication light starts blinking.
For the Plantronics M1500 & A500 adapter (discontinued): Turn the headset on and the adapter off. On the headset push in and hold the mute/volume dial until the indicator light begins to flash. On the adapter press and hold the blue power button for 10 seconds. The light on the adapter will flash once after 3 seconds- continue to hold the power button for another-7 seconds until the light flashes red. If the pairing is successful, the headset will sound a tone and both the headset and adapter lights will turn off.
For both the Plantronics M1000/M1500 (discontinued): If you remove the battery cover from the headset and then remove the battery itself. On the Green PC board itself there will be a letter followed by 4 numbers. These 4 numbers are your personal PIN code.
You can also use the Plantronics Bluetooth Pairing Guide
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