Question about Whirlpool Microwave Ovens
The technician was working on the electrical subsystem in the house when the microwave went out. We want to know where the fuse is located so we troubleshoot it for repairs.
SOURCE: GE JVM1440 Spacesaver Microwave
You can fix it without the aid of a repairman. Simply unplug the microwave and remove the outer casing. There should be a few screws around the bottom edge and back panel. Once you have the unit open, look for where the power cord comes in. There should be a circuit board with a fuse mounted to it. This is your input line filter. The fuse should be a 20 amp appliance fuse that you can pick up at any hardware store (Lowe's and Home Depot both carry them). DO NOT op test with the outer casing removed. Potentials of about 14,000 volts are present in the high voltage network of a microwave oven. Close the unit up BEFORE you power it back up. Let me know if this helps.
Posted on Aug 11, 2007
SOURCE: Inner 'glass' of door
The inner glass can and should be replaced. It protects the metal mesh screen from getting dirty, which can cause it to be damaged and allow microwave leakage. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Posted on Sep 22, 2007
SOURCE: Microwave keeps blowing fuse
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that\'s usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that\'s usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
Here are some links with info on part testing:
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by
entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Please write back with your brand and model number if you need further help.
We\'re happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jan 13, 2008
This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.
Please feel free to contact me directly if you need more help.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
William E. Miller, AS-EET
Posted on May 09, 2008
is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch
mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or
problem on the control panel.
Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.
If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on May 26, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Either you have defected (weak) circuit breaker and wiring or bad Microwave oven.
The 99.99 % house hold Microwave ovens pull less than 15 Amps. They may have internal ceramic 15A fuse or 15 Amp internal circuit breaker.
To isolate your problem:
Plug your Microwave oven to different areas (different electrical circuit) if the different circuit breaker still trips... your Microwave oven has a short - Most of them has a small ceramic fuse 15 amps fuse.-also check some inter lock switches at door .
If the Microwave oven works Ok then you may have:
2a. You may overload the existing electrical circuit, try to unplug some other appliances
2b. You may have bad electrical outlet receptacle (Replace it with the same type , - may need helps from licensed electrician)
2c. Weak or defect house hold circuit breaker. (Replace it with the same type , brand - may need helps from licensed electrician)
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