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First write down which color wire goes in which slot on switch.Turn power off! Disconnect wires from defective switch by inserting a paper clip or something a little bigger into the wire connection.Then press the spring down and release the wire to insert in new HUNTER switch. DO NOT CUT WIRES!Call 1-888-830-1326 with model # to order the correct switch.
start with changeing the bulbs make sure you check for single or double condessent bulb if an earlier model you can get these at your favorite automotive parts store then i would change the switch if you have an electrical tester you can set it to dc mode and check the switch by placeing the positive probe on the hot wire terminal or by pokeing a pin into the wire and cliping an aligator clamp to the pin and placeing the negative or ground probe to a clean metal surface for ground. the meeter should read around .5 when the switch is placed in the on position. if the reading is less then the connection is possibly broke some place in the wire if the reading is more than .5 then something is possibly grounding or faulting out the wire you will need to check each fuse at the fuse panel by removing the fuse and placing the positive probe inside the fuse block and touching the negative or ground probe to a clean metal surface, turn the ignition to on position without starting the vehicle, place the switch in the on position and record the reading for future reference it should read .5 depending on year model vehicle. i hope this helps god bless
Sounds the the passenger rear switch is bad. The switch is fed it's own power from the master window switch. There should be two dark blue wires at the rear switch. One should have power all the time. That is the power feed from the master switch. If there is no power to the window motor with the switch in the up position than the up contact in the switch is never making contact with the dark blue power supply wire. If the up contact in the switch is broke than it would explain why it is not making contact with the Light green wire which is the power supply for the window up from the master switch.
Hope that helps.
The wire that runs the length of the handle and terminates at the engine is attached to a spade or bullet connector that is attached at the magnetto (spark plug wire comes from the magnetto). if it jus broke off you should be able to see where it attaches on the connector.
Hi Nicholas. My thoughts on this without being able to see the unit.
One position on the switch is for the power to come into it, probably the L position or "Line In/Power In."
The first position on the switch is most likely the "OFF" position, so I would assume no wire out be connected to it. Most likely the 1 position.
I think it makes sense to assume that the two wires that you see UNCONNECTED are the actual power in wires to the fan, one for low speed and one for high speed, positions 2 and 3 on the switch.
The only way to verify this would be to wire the switch with one of the wires to terminal 2 and one to terminal 3 on the switch. If the fan runs fastest when the switch is in the number 2 position, the wires most likely need to be switched.
Again, just my thoughts.
Let me know if you have questions.
You can change the tps alone. You do not have to change the entire throttle body. It shouldn't be riveted in place, it should have screws or bolts on one side or the other. If it's riveted in place, use a dremmel and grind the rivets off. You can replace rivets with screws on the new unit.
its a pressure switch.....when fully turned to a lock position the switch kicks up the idle 200 rpm. if it shorts the idle will go up 200 rpm every time u start the truck.....common on 98 rodeo models.
My zune lock switch completely broke off in the locked position. I used a paper clip to remove the small plastic tray under where the switch use to be. It came off pretty easily. Then I could see a small black toggle switch can I was able to flick it in the unlock position.