Question about Speakers & Subwoofers
I have a KLH Subwoofer model S200ETH everytime I replace the fuse it blows out. I took it apart and checked it nothing looks or smells burnt. I even tested the woofer to see if it was blown out but it is still working. Also the On led indicator does not turn on. Please help!?
I have the same problem. My guess is that the subwoofer coil is messed up. You MIGHT have to get it recoiled. But before you do any of that get someone with a sub to play their sub in your car, if it works.... then your sub is messed up, if not.....then your amp is messed up ( trial and error ). Today i noticed my subs rubber surrounding is crooked, that may be the problem for me. Also when I press down on the sub it makes a sticking sound, like something came loose. So once i get everything opened and out ill let you all know the solution. Good Luck!
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
Well, so far so good. I reinstalled the newly repaired amp and fired it up and so far, so good. Ran it through about an hour of fairly intense break-in tracks and then ran it through about 2 dozen power up and down cycles to try to get it to fail (better now than a month from now and have to fight them on backing it up).
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
make sure you have the speaker connection right if you do then it is a ground problem try plugging it in a different outlet
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Did you ever find a solution for this problem? I have the exact same thing happening with my KLH subwoofer and I'd love to know how to fix it!
Posted on Jan 26, 2010
SOURCE: Polk Audio PSW202 subwoofer.
Fuse probably went bad because either the large filer capacitors at the edge of the PCB went bad and or the final output IC mounted on the heatsink(15 pin) fried. Check the capacitors and all the semiconductor components on the board for burn marks or corrosion. You have to remove the heat sink clamp from in front of the output IC to adequately visualize its condition. In fact you might have to remove the large aluminum heatsink attached to the chassis to get a good view of the IC. If it or the heat sink clamp show signs of thermal burns you need to replace it. The IC is a TS TDA7294 mono audio amp available at Mouser Electronics. Replace the 35V 4700mF caps with 50V 4700mF caps. You will only have enough space on the top of the PCB for one of the larger caps. I mounted the other on the circuit side of the board. Note the polarity of the original caps and respect it in their replacements. The fuse is a 5 X 20 medium speed slow blow 250V 2.0A glass fuse.
Posted on Dec 02, 2011
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