Question about GE Microwave Ovens
The microwave just stopped after opening the door the display whent blank and nothing works. I have power to the outlet. Looking at the manual I see no fuse info. any ideas?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our
site here to help you.
You will need the free Acrobat Reader to view or print it in case you don't have it.
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille, on the floor of the oven behind the control panel, between the door switches, or on the filter board near where the cord comes into the unit.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
So don't let that fool you.
If the cavity thermostat needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the wall.
If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Dec 25, 2008
you must remove the MW take off the cover then look for a large metal can (capacitor) and a white (ceramic) fuse...look and, smell and, you should find the cause
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
It has probably had an overhesat problem and the repair is quite simple. First you must remove the cover. This will require the removal of alot of scres on top, bottom and rear of machine. Once done, looking down at the top of the microwave all the way to the left about half way from the front to the rear you will see a round senso with two black wires going to it. This issimilar to a fuse and when you remove it, you can test it with a continuity testor. Electric should flow through it with no resitance. If it does not, it must nbe replaced. It's about ten bucks.
Posted on Nov 20, 2009
NO internal fuse. It is most likely, the magnetron, and or High power diode. As related In all likelihood the mangnetron has failed, or perhaps even the Power Supply. or a fault that is shutting the system down for safety reasons You need to have it serviced by a reputable service centre/man. Ensure you get a firm "Quote" before proceeding, and remember these days the cost of repair can equal or exceed the price of a new one.
Posted on May 10, 2010
SOURCE: microwave is dead as a door nail
There is usually a 125V, 20 AMP line fuse inside the microwave. Its usually mounted at the point where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Unfortunately, you will need to uninstall the oven (if this is an over the range model), UNPLUG it and remove the exterior case to access. The case comes off in various ways depending on manufacture and model. I found this illustration at pcappliancerepair.com based on the model number you listed this question under:
There is a line filter assembly listed as item 1420 in the drawing. This is where the line fuse is usually mounted. Keep in mind, there are different vairations on the model number you provided. You need to look at the model number you have and include all the numbers. I reviewed most of these models and they appear to all have the same parts. You can usually purchase a box of fuses at a hardware store for just a little more than what the manufacturer charges for a single fuse. 125V, 20AMP Ceramic Slow Blow fuses are recommended. If you wish to order on line, use the part numbers to search by comparison as the model number you listed this question under may not be available at all the websites I have provided. The parts, however, ARE listed.
If you have any questions, or need additional assistance troubleshooting, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the microwave UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (removed) from the circuit. These ovens can blow a fuse by simply sitting idle. This can occur from any power fluctuations, brown outs, voltage spikes, etc. Or, it could be the symptom of a component that may have failed. If you find the internal fuse blown and replace it, only to have it blow again, you have a more significant problem than a simple blown fuse.
Posted on May 20, 2010
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