Question about Sony SLV-D300P DVD Player/VCR

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Sony SLV-D300P DVD Player Assembly needs to be replaced.

While Shipping a vdv combo. The drive gear assemble for the dvd spin speed has broke. So I want to replace the whole assembly AK97-00329C.  How can I find where to order parts?

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SOURCE: DVD freezes when playing on a Sony SLV D300P DVD/VCR

That particular unit is very sensitive to scratched or dirty disks. Remove the disk and make sure there are no finger prints, peanut butter & jelly, or popcorn butter stains on the back side. If there is, gently wash the disk under warm water with a DROP of mild dish detergent, being careful not to scratch the surface. Rinse the disk well and dry with a soft, lint free cloth (like an old cotton t-shirt) again being careful to avoid scratching the disk. Replace the disk and play.

If the disk is scratched, there is little hope of fixing the scratch so the unit can read it.....

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

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SOURCE: When playing a CD the

Tries it with other audio CD,if it have the same problems.Than the DVD player have a dirty laser eye scaner reader.Tries websites like, to buy a DVD player laser eye cleaner kit disc.

Posted on Dec 03, 2010

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My brush bar keeps falling down. We replaced motor but now the brushes don't spin.

Hi! If you've replaced the turbine & gear assembly and the brushes are still not spinning, a replacement brush-block assembly may be needed. The brushes counter rotate and need each other to spin. If a single brush is falling out, the brush assembly is broken. If the whole brush assembly keeps falling out, the drive pin shaft may be damaged. To order a replacement brush-block follow the link below.

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Jun 03, 2014 | Hoover F7425-900 SteamVac V2 Widepath...


How to fix DVD (not eject)

Please read my tips on how to fix the DVD players (not eject).

This problem is common on all DVD players such as VCD players,DVD/VCR combo,or even DVD ROM..

This simple tips is very easy to perform even you are non-pro in electronics.

This are the steps on how to do a D.I.Y troubleshooting:
  1. Remove the cover of your DVD player.
  2. Look at the DVD or CD tray assembly.
  3. Remove the whole CD tray assembly by loosening all screws at the left and right corner of the CD tray assembly and also you need to remove the front panel of the ejecting tray to get the whole CD tray assembly away from the DVD player for further repair and check-up.
  4. After that,look at the bottom of the DVD or CD tray and try to find out where's the motor that controls the ejecting tray.It is usually have a rubber O-ring or mini rubber belt that control the gear of ejecting tray
  5. Next,when you found the ejecting motor.Try to look at the rubber O-ring or mini rubber belt condition,if it is cut,loosen or disconnected from the motor.
  6. If the rubber belt is in good condition,check the ejecting motor.There are 2 ways of testing the motor,first the resistance checking-you should have a ohmmeter or multimeter (resistance or ohm range) point your (+/-) test prove to the terminal of the motor to measure the resistance.Secondly the actual testing-this procedure you need a battery 3vdc,connect the negative(-) terminal of the battery on the black wire of the motor and the positive(+) is connect to the red wire.If the motor is not spin-up replace it with the same type,rating,voltage and value.
  7. If you already done this procedure and the problem is still there after you replace the defective parts,if any.The problem could be the motor ejecting driver that found on the main board.This is not for D.I.Y because of the parts inside main board is very sensitive and hard to replace.If the trouble is on the main board you have to replace the whole main board or buy a new player.

Thank you for reading my tips.I hope to help you!!

on Jun 08, 2011 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

What does it mean when there is kind of a grinding noise when vehical starts but stops when put in gear?

It could be a defective starter assembly. There are two parts to a starter assembly: the starter motor and the starter solenoid. The offending culprit is usually the starter solenoid. Test the starter. Mount the starter in a large vise. Using jumper cables, attach the ground cable from a battery to the starter body and a positive cable to the starter positive post, where the main battery cable attaches. Attach a jumper wire from the solenoid-activator connection. Carefully jumper this wire directly to the starter positive post. The starter should spin firmly, and the starter drive-gear forcefully extend. Examine the starter drive-gear teeth. They may show much less sign of wear than the ring-gear since they are much harder steel. Replace the starter assembly anyway. The problem is the solenoid an electromagnet--is weak and is not driving the gear far enough into the ring-gear. This improper mesh creates grinding with just enough force to start the vehicle. If you do need to replace your starter this site looks like it has cheap prices, free shipping and great reviews

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I can hear the motor running, but the attachment does not move.

Sounds like what happened to my wife's mixer. There is one nylon gear in the drive assembly that is designed to break if too much load is put on the mixer. Like what can happen with dough or butter that is too hard/frozen. That is designed to save rest of the mixer. Sounds like you need to replace the KitchenAid Mixer Worm Drive and Pinion Gear Assembly. In our case, it was not the nylon gear that broke, but a small pin that is this gear assembly. By getting the assembly & not just the nylon gear, you cover more of your bases. I found a video on line that walks you through replacing the part. I also bought the part online. The assembly part, including shipping cost me $12.95.

Hope this helps.

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Drive shaft spinning and it will not go into gear.

If you put your cycle in gear and the drive shaft spins, but the motorcycle does not move, you probably have stripped worm gears in the final drive housing. Take off the large fill cap on the side of the final drive housing and inspect the large gear visually. It is probably cheaper to buy a final drive assembly and replace the whole unit than to pay the labor and parts to rebuild it. ($700 for the 1100, $850 for the 650)

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I have a 2000 650 vstar classic..the drive shaft just spins. wht could the issue be?

If you are putting the bike in gear while it is running, and the drive shaft is spinning but the cycle is not moving forward, then you have a broken or stripped gear in the final drive. Try draining the hypoid gear oil and open the fill cap to inspect for damage and metal chips.Your best option is going to be to replace the final drive assembly. You may be able to purchase all the parts to rebuild the old one , but all the bearings and gears may cost as much as the whole assembly.A good option may be to look for a good used one.

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My dvd player will not recognize the DVDs. I am not using burned dvd's or anything unusual, it will just say "No Disc" when i have a regular DVD in. How can I fix this?

this is due to a bad optics or mech assembly, the most common failure in DVD/CD players is the spindel motor, this is the motor that actually spins the disc, the bearings in the motor wears out and does not spin up to its right rmp, thereby causing a speed sense error to the microprocessor and the unit stops or says no disc. Replace the mech assembly to restore operation back to normal.

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Lawn tractor, engine model 42A707, starter spins but won't start engine; noted starter gear on top is worn down. Need help to either replace whole starter assembly with gear or just gear?

I had this same problem with a twin cylinder B & S engine and was able to get just the gear drive replaced without replacing the whole starter. Hope this helps you

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How the ring gear shaft comes out? how the whole gear box assembly comes out?

broke the spin pin in thrany need new gear drive assay

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My Hoover steam vac spin scrub model 4060-900 brushes are not spinning and I have lost the manual. Any ideas. Thanks.

The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.

You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.

First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.

Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.

Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.

Vanger Chevane.

Apr 19, 2009 | Hoover SteamVac F5914-900 SpinScrub...

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