Question about Mitsubishi WS-65909 65" Rear Projection Television
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a mitsubishi ws-65909. We had a power
I am a proud owner of the same TV you have. A couple of months ago, we had repeated, intentional rolling power outages in the Dallas area in an ice storm. I had the blinking green light of death also. The problem is in your DM module. If you remove the back panel on the set and expose the boards, the DM is the one farthest to the left. It is actually located inside a metal frame that surrounds it. You can disconnect the wiring harnesses coming out of it to the other boards. You may have to label the harnesses, but typically they are labeled so you can simply match the numbers of the harness removed to the receptacle into which it was originally plugged. There should be about 5 of these to remove. I recommend using needle-nose pliers, as they can be very hard to unplug. Just don't squeeze too hard and crack the plastic.
Once you have disconnected and removed the DM board assembly, you will need to remove the metal housing and disconnect another series of wiring terminals in order to fully expose the power boards within. Make sure you keep track of which screws go where, as some may be longer than others. Phone pics of wiring harnesses can come in handy so you remember where they go. After the metal housing is removed, you will see an elevated, smaller board attached to the much larger main board. The small PC board needs to be separated and removed so you can hold it in your hands and work on it. At this point, you have the option to take the board to an electronics repair shop or to fix the problem yourself (as I did) and save yourself some money. A decent repair shop should remove and replace the defective components for about $20, PARTS INCLUDED!. There are 7 capacitors that need to be replaced. They cost less than 50 cents apiece at an electronics parts supply shop. You may find them at RadioShack, but I recommend an electronics supply shop. This way you can buy capacitors that have a higher voltage rating than those originally installed. A higher voltage rating is recommended and will in no way affect performance or outcome. In fact, the original caps (capacitors) were rated too low in terms of both voltage and temperature. I believe the original caps were 1000 uf (microfarad), 16-volt caps which are black in color - indicating they are 85 degree compliant. Look for 1000 uf (microfarad) capacitors with a brown color that indicates they are better for high-temp applications of up to 105 degrees. You will be able to clearly see on the cap that it is 1000 uf, 25 v, 105 degrees C. One very important thing to note is that a defective cap isn't always obvious and will NOT always display symptoms of a bad cap. Typically a bad cap will have an outward bulge on the top, like a soda can about to explode. It may also show signs of dark, caramel or black colored syrup-like liquid oozing out of it. This should be considered, but definitely not ignored. When I fixed my set, ALL of the seven replaced caps actually looked like they were brand new and showed NO typical signs of fatigue or failure. I replaced all seven anyhow, put it all back together, and brought it back to life and saved myself many hundreds of dollars. The primary point I wish to relay is that you do not rely on the apparent physical appearance of the caps to decide their state. I hope this helps any and all with the symptoms related to the constant blinking green light which responds to nothing on the Mitsubishi WS -65909. You CAN save your TV by spending less than $75 by doing it yourself (less than $15 if you have a soldering iron and solder) or take it to a ****** who won't do component-level repairs and will just replace the whole DM board for 700 bucks or so. I know these sets are old and rapidly being replaced by LED, Plasma, and LCD sets, but you can't beat the pic for the price. If I get enough requests, I will figure out how to post a video how to to do the whole thing. I hope this helps. This will fix the constant blinking green light with no power-up on the Mitsubishi WS-65909 rear-projection TV!
Posted on Apr 08, 2011
SOURCE: Mistubishi ws-65909 will not come on
you need to hold down enter and device until it stops blinking
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
SOURCE: Mitsubishi WS 65909 Power
The constant blinking green light means that the TV is not booting up. This is a common problem on this set.You need to remove the shield from the DM board (standing upright on the left where the DTV RF connector is)and inside you will see the four leaky capacitors (1000 MFD 16 VOLT)replace them,plug the TV in and wait 70 seconds for the blinking light to stop,then turn on the TV.The hard part will be removing the board from the TV(lots of screws and connectors,takes time) You must do some checks first:LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Verify the standby supplies, 12-volts at connector KA pin 17, 6-volts at KA pin 18 and the 28-volts at KA pin 19, if the supplies are present suspect the DM PCB part # 934C067001 LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Check C9B01, C9B02, C9B10, and C9B11 (1000 UFD 16) on the DM PCB, if they are bad replace them with part # 181P734030 (680 UFD 16 V). LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds . LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector RF pin 4 and 5 on the Signal PCB if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D736001. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector RF pin 4 and 5 check good suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C061001.
Just click below for more information.; http://www.fixya.com/support/t838883-mitsubishi_wd_52825_tv_wont
Hope it may help you ;
Regards,
VOTIT
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
SOURCE: Wont power on
did you check the two 5 amp picos that normally blow when the Ics fail? They are F9ao4 and F9a05
Posted on May 25, 2009
SOURCE: Mitsu WS-65909 COMES ON AND TURN OFF IMMEDIATLY, ERROR CODE 2-2
Two blink code on this set means Usually one of the two pico fuses that protect the STK-393-110 CONVERGENCE IC is blown--the fuses will need to be tested and the chip and them replaced--
If you have enough skill I have step by step start to finish instructions for this repair in this set---set detects one of the voltages to the Chip is not there and shuts down instantly. I have photos of the chip, fuses and protect resistors this set uses also.
If you want the instructions for free give me a email and I will send them to you for free--if you are able to do this repair yourself you will save a lot of money--you can buy the chip on Ebay for about 14 dollars plus shipping and the same seller sells the pico fuses..............
If you want to attempt this give me a vote here--If you are not able to do it yourself I have suggestions for you about getting the set fixed--I have done hundreds of these sets!
Just reply to this post here.
Let me know what you want to do, I am here to help people
SD TECH
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
Testimonial: "This is what I thought from reading your other posts, please send me instructions. mchamber5@yahoo.com Thanks"
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