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Low light lense?

What type of lense do I need for low light and low light action photos?And what flash do you recommend

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You can use ANY lens t take low light photographs, however if you are hand holding camera you should use as fast a lens as you have at your disposal ie F1.8 (faster if you have it!)
If you are using flash it will not matter but are limited by range of flash gun!
I my opinion the best way is to use a tripod, no flash and fast lens.
Bj

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

  • bren&izy2 Jan 25, 2009

    PS also set ASA to 1600 or higher

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What should i buy ? Lense or Flash for DSLR?


I would say it depends on the type of photography you intend to do.

Obviously, you're going to need at least one lens, whereas you can take photos without a flash at all. If you're doing landscape photography during the day, you won't have much need for a flash. If you're doing studio photography, you're going to need a flash or other source of light.

Feb 27, 2014 | Canon Digital Cameras

2 Answers

I have new Nikon D90 with 18-105 Nikon lens. The only problem with the camera, when shooting potraits in dim light without flash, the pictures get black artefacts throughout the faces and skins. I used...


iv seen this on canon, are you sure it is on final image or only on view of image on camera?
view image out of camera it could be that it is not effected.

I hope this was useful.

Jan 24, 2011 | Nikon D90 Digital Camera with 18-105mm...

1 Answer

I am trying to take photos of my daughter cheering at football games ... I am having to zoom in and the pictures are grainey ... typical night game football lights ... how can I improve picture and get rid...


This is a general problem with low-light photography. The human eye can adapt well enough to see the action on the field and sidelines, but the camera can't. This leads to digital noise, which appears as something similar to film grain (and will henceforth be refered to as grain). Here are some suggestions, none of which are perfect.
  • If you're close enough and it's permitted, use flash. This is harsh lighting and will turn the background black, making her appear to be cheering in the void.
  • Lower the ISO and use a slower shutter speed. This will cause any subject motion to blur in the photo. Some of that might be put to use by panning the camera to follow the action. Otherwise you'll need a steady support for the camera, such as a tripod or monopod.
  • The other big reason for the graininess is the small size of your camera's sensor, compared to that in DSLRs. Smaller sensors mean less light hitting them and thus more grain. Larger sensors make DSLRs more sensitive to lower levels of light and thus provide better low-light capability, with less (not no) grain. DSLRs can also use faster lenses, which further alleviates the problem.
  • The noise can often be reduced in software. Refer to your photo editor's manual for details on the procedure.

Sep 22, 2010 | Canon PowerShot G7 Digital Camera

1 Answer

When taking night sport shots I don't think I have the right settings for clear photos they are coming out tooo blurry. Help!!! the photos are grainy also and dark. Could you send me the correct setting...


More likely you don't have enough light for clear photos. There's not too much you can do about this, since you probably can't add more light to the stadium or arena and the action is too far away for your flash.

Since the low light is going to force a rather slow shutter speed on you, you need to stabilize the camera. Use a tripod or monopod. That won't stop the athletes from blurring, but at least the setting will be sharper. Alternatively you can try panning with the motion, freezing the athlete and blurring the background.

A faster lens will get you a couple of additional stops, but as such lenses can cost $2000 and more, unless you're taking pictures for Sports Illustrated...

Sep 11, 2010 | Nikon D70s Digital Camera

1 Answer

When taking indoor photos, sometimes i get shadows on different placesof the photo


If you're getting shadows on the bottom center of indoor photos when take with a flash, it is most probably due to the length of the lens on the camera.

A long, telephoto / zoom lenses will create the largest amount of shadow, while shorter and wide angle lenses will be least likely cast shadows. You can reduce the amount of shadow in pictures by removing the lens hood that may be on the end of the lens. The lens hood is to primarily to shield the lens from direct (sun) light, and probably isn't needed for indoor flash photography. Also, rely less on the zoom function of the lens on the camera and physically moving closer to your subject instead. The flash will need to provide much less light output and result in more flashes per battery.

You could use a separate flash - held off the camera so that the lens is not obstructing the light of the on camera flash. Using a Nikon Speed Light, you can set the on camera flash to provide a low output, that would be used primarily to trigger a Nikon Speed Light held by someone or arranged on another surface etc. Youtube is a great source for real life, practical "How To" videos for many operations of the camera and accessories.

I hope this was helpful!

Oct 25, 2009 | Nikon D80 Digital Camera with 18-135mm...

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Settings for dance/on stage action shots with no flash and low li


If there isn't good lighting on the stage (nevermind the auditorium), your 18-135mm lens does not have enough light-gathering ability for action shots, especially when you zoom in for that close-up of your daughter. Even at the highest ISO speed setting, you would likely have shutter speeds longer than 1/30 second, too slow to avoid camera shake and certainly too slow to freeze action. While a dreamy motion blur can make a nice impressionistic effect, I'm sure you want to recognize your daughter.

Sorry to say that the only solution for low-light, no-flash shots is to spend money on a fast lens. Either that or sneak in beforehand and put high-wattage lamps in the stage lights. The best value is the Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D lens available new with full warranty at B&H Photo (bhphotovideo.com) for $134.95 with free shipping. This lens gets highest marks in every professional review, and it's a huge value at that price. Or, if price is no object, go for the 50mm f/1.4D at $350. These are both prime lenses, not zoom, so you will want to get there early so you can choose your seat for the best view close to the stage.

Mar 22, 2009 | Nikon D80 Digital Camera with 18-135mm...

1 Answer

Blurred images


Any number of things. 
Low ISO. No Flash. No tripod. Too little light. No "shake" correction on the camera. 
Depending on the goal of the photo, you may wish to use a tripod. Or use the flash. Or use a higher ISO (400+). Or any combination of these. 
The easiest thing to do would be to make sure you use a flash. If you're trying to take a photo of something without the flash, you'll have to use a tripod. And even then, if something is moving fast through the frame, it'll likely be blurry. You simply need more light.
If you're new to digital cameras, I recommend the automatic settings. There's an "action" mode which usually has a man running as an icon. Or someone in motion. Some cameras even have settings for use at night or in darker rooms. Try those. 
If you feel comfortable, you could manually bump the ISO up to 400 and try again. Your photo may be a little "grainer" and will probably look a bit ugly blown up much over a 5x7, but for 4x6 or anything online, it should be fine. 

Feb 27, 2009 | Polaroid i830 Digital Camera

1 Answer

Olympus D 555 Blurred action shots


Indoor actions in low-to-moderate light are very difficult. This is why professional photographers pay thousands for DSLRs with high quality high-ISO settings, and thousands more for big and heavy lenses that can shoot with a large aperture (small f-stop number) to get the most light into the lens and onto the sensor.

Your Olympus D-555 only goes to ISO 400, which is not suitable for indoor action shots, and the lens is f/3 to f/5 which is not a fast lens. What you are trying to do is simply not possible with this camera. You need good quality at ISO 1600 (or higher) and f/2.8 or faster for the lens. This will give you 8 to 16 times as much light gathering capability in low light situations, letting you use a much faster shutter to capture action shots in low light.

Dec 30, 2008 | Olympus ImageLink D-555 Zoom Digital...

1 Answer

Bad photo quality


The Konika Minolta 7D is a DSLR. With the DSLR you have a much bigger sensor, and can use much bigger lenses (with larger apertures - lower f-stop numbers) to gather light to the sensor. This allows the DSLR to take much better photos in low light. You will never get the same quality out of a small pocket camera like the Nikon S60. Hand-held non-flash photos in low light with this camera are going to have the flaws you have noticed - especially in the darker areas of the image. This is digital noise caused by amplifying the signal from the sensor as the camera processes the image with the high ISO setting.

You said you are sure that you are using the highest picture quality settings. The next thing is to change the ISO - this camera's "high ISO" does not produce images with good quality. The camera automatically uses a high ISO setting in low light, you need to tell it to not use high ISO by setting a lower ISO value. When shooting with a low ISO setting in low light, you need to use a tripod, and your subject can not be moving.

If you need to take hand-held photos, or your subject is moving, then you need to use flash with this camera, or else use your 7D.

Dec 29, 2008 | Nikon COOLPIX S60 Digital Camera

2 Answers

My flash photo's are creating "white" eyes


Without seeing the photos in question, I can't give you an exact answer. My best guess is that your flash was too far away to cause red-eye but was instead reflected from the moist surface of the eyeball as a white catch-light right in the center of the eyeball.

However, I can give you some tips on how to shoot photos in this situation.

First, flash and telephoto lenses do not work well together. The reason for this is that the light provided by your flash falls off dramatically as the distance increases. This is called the Inverse Square Law. What happens is that the light provided by your flash at 10 feet is 1/4 the light provided when the subject is at 5 feet - not 1/2 the light as you might first suspect. For this reason flash becomes essentially useless when your subject is more than 15-20 feet from the flash. Unless you can put strobe lighting on the stage and trigger it remotely from your camera (a very expensive process), you need to shoot with the available light.

First you need "fast glass" - this means a lens with a small f-stop number when zoomed to the maximum telephoto distance. These lenses are heavy, and expensive, but this is what you need to use to get this job done. Let me know if you want a link to some sites that rent these lenses. You need to shoot at the widest aperture (minimum f-stop number). I shoot with a 70-200 lens at f2.8 for this type of situation. Shoot in Aperture Priority mode so you can set the f-stop to the minimum for the lens (e.g. f2.8).

Second, you need to bump the ISO to the highest setting. This is why digital cameras have a high ISO setting, to enable you to shoot in low light. The images are going to have a lot of noise but there's no way around it - this is part of low light photography. Don't forget to reset the ISO after your are done - you don't want to shoot in high ISO all the time - just use it in low light situations.

Third, I usually under-expose by 1 stop so that I can use a shutter that is 1-stop faster than I could use otherwise - to minimize motion blur. This can be done in Aperture Priority mode by setting Exposure Compensation to -1. The shots will be a little dark but I find that it works OK because they "look" like they are on stage this way. You can also lighten them a bit in the post processing. If the light is really, really dim I may even shoot at -2.

Fourth, only shoot when your subject is in the brightest areas of the stage - don't try to get a shot when your subject is off on the side in dimmer light.

Fifth, shoot in RAW. You can do a lot in post-processing of RAW files to bring out details and minimize noise. If you shoot in JPEG there is little you can do to fix these problems in your post-processing.

Finally, you need to either use a lens with IS or VR that helps minimize blur from camera shake, or you need to use a tripod or monopod to help stabilize the camera.

Dec 17, 2008 | Nikon D40 Digital Camera with G-II 18-55mm...

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