You can use ANY lens t take low light photographs, however if you are hand holding camera you should use as fast a lens as you have at your disposal ie F1.8 (faster if you have it!)
If you are using flash it will not matter but are limited by range of flash gun!
I my opinion the best way is to use a tripod, no flash and fast lens.
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I would say it depends on the type of photography you intend to do.
Obviously, you're going to need at least one lens, whereas you can take photos without a flash at all. If you're doing landscape photography during the day, you won't have much need for a flash. If you're doing studio photography, you're going to need a flash or other source of light.
If you are shooting with the new film from the Impossible Project, you need to turn the button which makes the photos come out light or dark all the way to the dark side. At most cameras this little button is next to the lense. It's hollow and you should be able to see a little lense inside of it. You probably took your photos with the button to the light side, which causes your photos to come out lighter (this was useful for taking photos with a dark background).
I also recommend you to buy a flash for your camera. I use a Polaroid as well and I noticed how my photos didn't get overexposed when I used my flash. Odd isn't it.
hi, it depends on what you are wanting to do, photo or video. if you are wanting to do action underwater and where the camera has to be water resistant then i would recommend one such as go pro Hero range. for some nice photos for events such as weddings then a DSLR with a good all round lens would be good. you would have to decide which brand you want to go with as extra flash and lenses have to be compatable with your camera. top brands for quality durability and variety of accessories are Canon or Nikon, there are of course others such as olympus, sony, pentax, fujifilm. it will be your decission. When buying a camera i should be able to work well in lower light as well as in bright light. i should have preset settings for beginners and also some manual settings to get some more dramatic effects when you get more experienced. but first look at the different cameras and see which one suits you where you can quickly find the settings and feels good in your hand. it should have a flash connection for more light when needed. what you do not need to get is one with the most Megapixel this is only useful when the pictures will be shown on very large screens or will be made into very large poster such as for advertising. a good 8-12 megapixel is good enough but it is fine if you want to go higher. I am now using a Canon 650d as i wish to have good video as well a great photos this camea also has stereo sound for video and is a lot cheaper than the professional canon 5d mk 111 which is on of the cameras of choice for professionals. but i also have a 350d which also takes great pictures and is good enough for most things, as the iso only goes to 1600 even with a lower f stop lens it is not so good in very low light with no flash. for canon or Nikon alike you can get some great deals on used cameras and equipment. but if buying second hand look at the memory type the most used today is SD cards, such as the HDSC type and for faster processiong when making video or many photos in a sequence a Class 10 card is very good for this. also ensure the batteries are still ok and will no go flat in a short time maybe ask if a new battery is included in the deal when you buy. I would speak to a salesman at a store that sells many different makes of camera then you will get the chance to view and get an unbiased opinion of what is best for what you want to photograph.
This is a general problem with low-light photography. The human eye can adapt well enough to see the action on the field and sidelines, but the camera can't. This leads to digital noise, which appears as something similar to film grain (and will henceforth be refered to as grain). Here are some suggestions, none of which are perfect.
If you're close enough and it's permitted, use flash. This is harsh lighting and will turn the background black, making her appear to be cheering in the void.
Lower the ISO and use a slower shutter speed. This will cause any subject motion to blur in the photo. Some of that might be put to use by panning the camera to follow the action. Otherwise you'll need a steady support for the camera, such as a tripod or monopod.
The other big reason for the graininess is the small size of your camera's sensor, compared to that in DSLRs. Smaller sensors mean less light hitting them and thus more grain. Larger sensors make DSLRs more sensitive to lower levels of light and thus provide better low-light capability, with less (not no) grain. DSLRs can also use faster lenses, which further alleviates the problem.
The noise can often be reduced in software. Refer to your photo editor's manual for details on the procedure.
More likely you don't have enough light for clear photos. There's not too much you can do about this, since you probably can't add more light to the stadium or arena and the action is too far away for your flash.
Since the low light is going to force a rather slow shutter speed on you, you need to stabilize the camera. Use a tripod or monopod. That won't stop the athletes from blurring, but at least the setting will be sharper. Alternatively you can try panning with the motion, freezing the athlete and blurring the background.
A faster lens will get you a couple of additional stops, but as such lenses can cost $2000 and more, unless you're taking pictures for Sports Illustrated...
If you're getting shadows on the bottom center of indoor photos when take with a flash, it is most probably due to the length of the lens on the camera.
A long, telephoto / zoom lenses will create the largest amount of shadow, while shorter and wide angle lenses will be least likely cast shadows. You can reduce the amount of shadow in pictures by removing the lens hood that may be on the end of the lens. The lens hood is to primarily to shield the lens from direct (sun) light, and probably isn't needed for indoor flash photography. Also, rely less on the zoom function of the lens on the camera and physically moving closer to your subject instead. The flash will need to provide much less light output and result in more flashes per battery.
You could use a separate flash - held off the camera so that the lens is not obstructing the light of the on camera flash. Using a Nikon Speed Light, you can set the on camera flash to provide a low output, that would be used primarily to trigger a Nikon Speed Light held by someone or arranged on another surface etc. Youtube is a great source for real life, practical "How To" videos for many operations of the camera and accessories.
If there isn't good lighting on the stage (nevermind the auditorium), your 18-135mm lens does not have enough light-gathering ability for action shots, especially when you zoom in for that close-up of your daughter. Even at the highest ISO speed setting, you would likely have shutter speeds longer than 1/30 second, too slow to avoid camera shake and certainly too slow to freeze action. While a dreamy motion blur can make a nice impressionistic effect, I'm sure you want to recognize your daughter.
Sorry to say that the only solution for low-light, no-flash shots is to spend money on a fast lens. Either that or sneak in beforehand and put high-wattage lamps in the stage lights. The best value is the Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D lens available new with full warranty at B&H Photo (bhphotovideo.com) for $134.95 with free shipping. This lens gets highest marks in every professional review, and it's a huge value at that price. Or, if price is no object, go for the 50mm f/1.4D at $350. These are both prime lenses, not zoom, so you will want to get there early so you can choose your seat for the best view close to the stage.
Any number of things.
Low ISO. No Flash. No tripod. Too little light. No "shake" correction on the camera.
Depending on the goal of the photo, you may wish to use a tripod. Or use the flash. Or use a higher ISO (400+). Or any combination of these.
The easiest thing to do would be to make sure you use a flash. If you're trying to take a photo of something without the flash, you'll have to use a tripod. And even then, if something is moving fast through the frame, it'll likely be blurry. You simply need more light.
If you're new to digital cameras, I recommend the automatic settings. There's an "action" mode which usually has a man running as an icon. Or someone in motion. Some cameras even have settings for use at night or in darker rooms. Try those.
If you feel comfortable, you could manually bump the ISO up to 400 and try again. Your photo may be a little "grainer" and will probably look a bit ugly blown up much over a 5x7, but for 4x6 or anything online, it should be fine.
The Konika Minolta 7D is a DSLR. With the DSLR you have a much bigger sensor, and can use much bigger lenses (with larger apertures - lower f-stop numbers) to gather light to the sensor. This allows the DSLR to take much better photos in low light. You will never get the same quality out of a small pocket camera like the Nikon S60. Hand-held non-flash photos in low light with this camera are going to
have the flaws you have noticed - especially in the darker areas of the
image. This is digital noise caused by amplifying the signal from the
sensor as the camera processes the image with the high ISO setting.
You said you are sure that you are using the highest picture quality settings. The next thing is to change the ISO - this camera's "high ISO" does not produce images with good quality. The camera automatically uses a high ISO setting in low light, you need to tell it to not use high ISO by setting a lower ISO value. When shooting with a low ISO setting in low light, you need to use a tripod, and your subject can not be moving.
If you need to take hand-held photos, or your subject is moving, then you need to use flash with this camera, or else use your 7D.