Have bottom oven door on Whirlpool RBD245PRS0 problem
Was putting the doors back on the oven, top went on OK, bottom both went in, the left did not lock, the right locked. The left is loose where you can see all of the latch. Have not forced anything and have tied door so will not hang. Been unable to get it unlock on the right and the left will not go in. This is a built in oven.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Okay this doesn't make sense did the breaker trip if so look for a short to ground I have serviced many of wall ovens in self clean the TOD does trip do you have a display if not the thermal cavity fuse is open if it stopped in self clean the door is locked as a tech I went to the auto store and bought some feeler gauges use one at the top of the door in the middle slide gauge between door and body push to the left to release the catch door should open
Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.
WHIRLPOOL - most models Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.
F1 - Analog control board Failure Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board F1 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - Oven temperature sensor open Replace oven temperature probe F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Oven too hot Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Clean temperature too hot Replace oven probe F5 - Door latch switch fault Test and replace the door switch.
Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:
F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop) Replace control board F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open Replace temperature probe F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted Replace temperature probe F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high Replace temperature probe F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot Replace temp. probe F5 - E0 - Check door latch F5 - E1 - Check door latch Replace switch if defective
WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:
F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error Replace ERC F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error Replace ERC F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors Replace ERC F1 E4:2 - Model ID error Reinsert keytail. F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error Replace ERC F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error Replace keypad assembly F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged reinsert the keytail F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open Test and replace top probe. F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted Test and replace temp probe F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature Test and replace temp probe F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature Test and replace temp probe. F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open Test and replace temp probe F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted Test and replace temp probe F5 E0:14 Door switch errot Test and eventually replace door lock switch F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating Test and eventually replace door latch F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error Test the cooling module. PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault. PF occurs when power is disconnected.
WHIRLPOOL Models SF3, 30'' and 24"
F2 - Oven temperature above specifications Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary F5 - Push button stuck or faulty Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing) Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor) Replace ERC. F8 - Electronic control logic error Replace ERC.
I had the same problem the first time I used the cleaning cycle. The oven was under warranty when it occurred so I watched the repairman when he fixed it. He not only installed a larger fan, but he had to replace a thermocouple that is on the back of the oven, part number 4450934. The oven seems to die (lose power) after every cleaning cycle. I'm now ordering my third thermocouple. To replace the part, you have to pull the oven out from the wall to access the back. To do that, open the oven door. (If your door is locked because of the cleaning cycle, you may have to
take a hacksaw blade to slip it in to see if you can trip the latch.
The repair man was lucky when he did mine as the door clicked open when
he was just messing with it so I don't know any trick to get it
unlocked. He said that because the thermocouple died, it didn't provide the signal to unlatch the door, so the oven thinks it's still at 500 degrees and keeps the door locked which is part of the safety process). If you do get the door open, on the sides of the oven itself, at the bottom inside hinge of the door, you will see a screw holding the molding (frames the side of the opening of the stove). Remove each screw (left side and right side at the bottom) and pull the molding off. You now have access to the screws that hold the oven to the cabinet that it is sitting in. Remove those screws (mine has one on each side) and you can then slide the oven out. It's heavy so you will need help or have some thing you can slide it on to. It needs to come out far enough so you can access the back. You will see the thermocouple on the back, held on with two screws. Remove the wires and take the part off and throw it away (or keep it so you know what to order again next time as you will be replacing it again after you do another cleaning cycle) GREAT WHIRLPOOL PRODUCT. Reverse the process and you will be baking in no time.
Just managed to put the doors on. Do the bottom door first. There are 2 little spikes on the bottom of the door. You need to slot them into the holes in the frame. Then make sure that the little metal flaps on the top of the door fit UNDERNEATH the inner door frame. Screw together.
Same with the top door, additionally add the trim on top.
Thanks to solution #1 - I've literally been fuffing about since yesterday evening, I was about to call out the engineer! :)
ok wht you have to do is grab the hinge with pliers or your hand and fold the hinge to the open position,carefull this hinge has some pressure to it and you dont want to pinch your skin ,once the hinge is open,you want to take a screw or strong nail and stick it thru the hole that is between the top of the hinge and bottom in the center put the nail thru the hole and let the hinge close slow i,it will hold the hinge 3/4 open,now hook the door on it will be 3/4 open once you feel it latch on the door open the door all the way pull the nails out and close the door ,it takes a little practice but youll get it remember to use the nail to hold the hinge open,youll see the hole on the hinge
facing the front of the oven (while off) put your hand along the back of the oven toward the top left side. there should be a techinical spec sheet with a list of what the codes mean and possable solutions.