Broiler does not work

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/wall-oven/how-to-replace-an-electric-oven-broiler-element.html Check the thermostat and the control board too

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.

Reseating the Element The broiler is heated using an electric element which should be clipped in to the top of the broiler enclosure. If this has come loose then it might not be making contact with the necessary terminals. Try to reseat the terminal but before doing so you must ensure that the electricity is turned off.
Testing the Element The element is what heats up and cooks the food in the broiler. Over time the heat can damage the broiler element. These elements are supported by stand-offs and if the element burns out or becomes damaged then this can be a common reason why the broiler isn't working.
The easiest way to test whether this is working is to turn the broiler on and look at the element. If it is working correctly then the element should be glowing red.
Another slightly more complicated test for the broiler element is to remove the element from the oven and disconnect it. Then use a multimeter to check the continuity of the element. Set the multi-meter to measure resistance and then put it either side of the element. The normal measurement should be between 20 and 40 ohms. If the element is infinitely resistant then this means it's broken and will need to be replaced.
Testing Oven Controls Another reason why the broiler will fail to work is because of problems with the oven controls. A thermostat is used to set the temperature of the broiler, and the oven selector controls are used to control the setting of the broiler.
Turn the oven controls on to see whether the broiler is working properly. If not the controls can be removed and tested using a multimeter. Check the outputs to ensure that the controls are working correctly.
These can also be replaced if required by fitting a replacement part designed specifically for your oven.


Read More: Troubleshooting an Oven Broiler Doesn Work

Are you having any issues at all with the display at all? Did this start out of the blue or did you have a power outage or anything else?

Hi.

If the element does not turn off, possible faults are:

Shorted temperature probe.
Test temperature probe reading impedance. If impedance is zero or lower than 0.500 Ohms, the the probe is shorted. A good probe reads about 1KOhms.

Contact at element. A contact in element wiring harness may cause the element to stay on. Do continuity test between ground and element and on wiring harness.

Defective control module.
If problem is none of the above, then it is the oven electronic control(ERC). The ERC can be tested reading voltages.

Testing must be done by a trained technician.

Turn the breaker off for 5 minutes then turn it back on see if this helps if not let me know.

There are three possible defects to conside. In order of likelihood given what you've described...

1) The bake element is defective. You can remove it and check it with an ohm meter. A good one would be roughly 20 to 40 ohms, a bad element has high (or very high) resistance.

2) The oven thermostat. It controls both the bake and broil elements, but has seperate control circuits (contacts) for each. The bake element is used most and most likely to fail. You *can* check for voltage while its operating, but if you aren't sure of what you're doing its an unnecessary danger. If you eliminate the element (#1 above) and the wiring (#3 below) then the thermostat is what you have to replace.

3) The wiring from the thermostat to the bake element could be defective. (I'm sorry, I don't know if your bake element has a socket or just wiring. It is possible for a bad socket to burn and pit the element's contacts and to have to replace both.). This is the least common cause, but if you test the bake element resistance at the thermostat, that includes the wiring, and if the element by itself is good, but not with the wiring then its the wiring. Since the broil element works, the wiring feeding power to the thermostat is good, and the only wiring to check was from the thermostat to the bake element.

You probably know this, but on an oven unit there has to be two different phases of 120 to make it work. Check the wires that attach to the oven unit to make sure that you have 240 when in oven mode. If you have only 120, find out which wire is not hot and trace it to its source. Is it miswired at the other end? Is it shorted to one of the broiler wires? Usually there is a schematic to show how the oven is wired. Check for anything that is common to both oven and broiler wires and make sure the wires are on the right terminals. With out seeing the sove it is hard to know what it going on. Hope that helps. Robin

so this unit is electric? does the broiler work? if the answer is yes , the broiler does work...more than likely you need a bake element. Do you have a multimeter? you can also check to see if you have 240 volts going to the element when you turn it on if you have voltage your problem is 100 percent a bake element that has gone bad.

sounds as if perhaps there has been a thermal overload(switch) tha has gone bad, refer to part number 119 on bothe the lower and upper oven for refernce , you should have continuity trough the switches.
ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Lassomption/5995383394.pdf