Warm to hot water from both sides (hot is turned off)
I have the heating unit turned off, the cold is on and both fans are operational. I removed the back panel and cleaned out the dust from the intake area, I have now cut away the cheesy plastic "grates" that cover the fans and replaced with a piece of furnace filter to better keep dust out while still allowing for air flow. However, with only the cooler on, I still get warm water from both sides?
Re: warm to hot water from both sides (hot is turned off)
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Does the passenger side fan in the engine compartment come one when the a/c is on? There are relays and such that make them work not just a positive and negative. Would check that out if that is working. Did you burp your cooling system after all these items where replaced? Simply remove cap when it's NOT HOT, and start it up let it get up to operating temperature, while doing this look and make sure that the radiator is circulating fluid inside it. After it's warmed up see if the fluid level inside the radiator doesn't drop some fill with HOT or WARM water NO COLD AT ALL, you can crack your heads, block, or head gaskets, not to mention burn yourself with the super heated steam produced from introducing cold water to a hot system. So you have filled up the radiator, now replace cap, let car cool off some 10 or 15 minutes. No go give it a try, if nothing else this is a all but free trick might be all that is wrong. Let me know if you have any questions about the above, also please let me know if this fixed your issue. Hope this Helps.
The crackling noises is just from air in the water and should be of no concern. If you are having a problem of heating up the water with the unit it is most likely do to water moving too fast through the lines. Ideally, there should be a shutoff valve installed on both sides of your heater (makes for easy removal if it needs to be serviced). But if you turn off the valve about 1/4 to 1/2 way on the one on the "in" side of the heater (where the cold water enters) then you will slow down the water going through the heater and this will give the water a better chance to heat up. This should alleviate the heating problems you are having. If you do have a shutoff valve on the cold (in) side of the heater, shut it off about 1/4 to 1/2 way and then go to your shower and turn the hot on all the way (no cold). Wait for the water to warm and test the water by hand to see if it is the temp you want. If it is still not warm enough, turn the hot on the shower DOWN just a little. This will actually make the water hotter. I know this doesnt seem right but it will. On the other hand, if the water coming out with the hot water fully turned on is too hot, then just turn on a little cold water at a time until the water is the temp you want. Remember, always give the water plenty of time to get from the heater to the shower before you decideof its the right temp. Ideally, you should be able to turn the hot water on all the way and get the hot temp that you want and if you want to cool it down, just turn the cold on just a little bit until it is where you want. I'm fairly sure the problems you are having are due to the water going too fast through the unit and once you adjust that and understand better how these tankless heaters work, you wont have any more trouble. They are difficult to get used to after using conventional water heaters and the manufacturers arent very good about giving you these hints so they will work properly. You will need a professional to uninstall and hopefully this will work and you want have to. But if you do, it requires shutting off the water to the unit. Shutting off the pwer to the unit. Unattaching the water lines to the unit and then unattaching the electric lines from the junction box or wherever they are attached. The heater then can be removed from the wall by unscrewing the screws from the hangers which hold it to the wall.
Verify all your components are operating - Compressor? Condenser fan motor? Blower fan motor?
If not check voltage to any that are not operating.
If all components are operating and the coils are clean - the refrigerant level is most likely low.
These unit is design to operate at a specific flow rate and cannot be ajusted if you need to have a warm shower you will need to get a bath remote where you can turn down the temp whenever you need without disrupting the flow rate
We had the same problem - the hot water would only be hot for 3 -5 minutes and shut off, then we had to turn the water off, wait a few minutes, and do it again. VERY FRUSTRATING.
Solution: The Rinnai serviceman showed me the heat-exchanger blower/fan: It was clogged with dust and moths.
Another clue: Our Rinnai was extremely noisy when the heat came on. After the fan was cleaned and replaced, it is nearly silent.
If you are reasonably mechanically inclined: TURN THE BREAKER / POWER OFF to the unit.
The blower-fan is located in the lower central area of the unit (at least on our unit). If you draw imaginary north-south, east-west lines through the center of the unit, the fan is in the lower-left quadrant. There is a spring clamp securing the black rubber accordian-like tube to the fan. There are two screws that secure the fan to the unit. there are two plugs that connect to the fan, as well as a third air-flow sensor that should be removed. then you can look at the fan unit, as well as the grill on the underside of the heat-exchanger that should be cleaned.
My thought was to go out and get a simple bug-screen, and place it over the air-input outlet vent going outside, but the repair guy said that although it may sound good, if that screen ever gets clogged, or reduces airflow to the Rinnai, then the unit will work harder, or even shut off, giving the same problem.
Try turning on the faucet by the dishwasher and let the water run until it gets hot. Once this is done turn on the dishwasher and see if the water is warm or hot. Most dishwashers do not heat the water (residential dishwasher) they take the hot water from the hot water side of the sink. If the water heater is located a distance from the dishwasher then the cold water fills the dishwasher before the hot water can make it to the unit. This should cure your problem.
It sounds like the condenser coils , the coils by the compressor , need cleaned badly . This (and the compressor cooling fan) , can cause the compressor to cut off on overload (due to the heat) , thereby not circulation refrigerant thru out the freezer coils .
The water line goes from inside the freezer door ( cold ) , under the refrig ( warm ) , then to the inside refrig water reservoir ( cold ) . After that , you should get cold water , until the reservoir is drained of cold water .
I would think the door you hear flapping is the door that controls the airflow across the heater coil - and the fan keeps blowing the door closed, preventing the airflow from going across the heating coil. I don't know whether this vehicle is vacum controlled or cable controlled - so either it's a disconnected cable, or a leaking vacum line.