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I replaced my furnace with a G71 2 years ago. Resently it was discovered that they installed the inlet and outlet ducting backwards, will this cause any long term trouble with my new furnace.

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  • Mr. Schafer Jan 18, 2013

    It was th combustion inlet and exhaust.

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  • Master
  • 2,976 Answers

Which inlet and outlet ducting are you talking about? For the heated and return air or, for the combustion intake and exhaust?

Posted on Jan 17, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I INSTALLED A GOODMAN FURNACE WITH THE RETURN AIR

can cause carbon dioxide build up not good for you

Posted on Oct 25, 2009

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SOURCE: bought new thermostate. furnace kicks on. runs for

check connections to igniter could be loose or it is out of postion , or may be needs replacing again

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

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SOURCE: My brand new, recently installed gas furnace is

yes tape would burn there i would remove what you have put inside most when new will give off some smoke as the heat exchanger has some grease coatings on it just burn it off , if this does not stop call back person who fitted it

Posted on Nov 05, 2010

  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: One of my cold air returns is not working

I assume you mean a "supply" vent inside the house either on the floor or in the ceiling.
If there is no airflow out of the register then the supply duct to that register is disconnected, blocked, or crushed. Go in attic or basement or crawl space and check the supply duct to this register and it should be visually apparent what the problem. Since i don't know where your air handler is located, i don't know where your ductwork is located(hence the attic, basement, or crawl space). There is one other possibility, if you find your supply duct is intact from the main trunk to your supply boot, then you may have a collar with a damper where the supply duct is connected to the main trunk duct and the baffle may be closed. If the tab handle on the baffled collar is in line with the supply duct then it is open. If perpendicular to the supply duct it is fully closed.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 04, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Ignition failure after three attempts then sits for an hour.

try cleaning the burners and or adjust the distance the igniter is from the actual burner .

Posted on Nov 14, 2011

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Mid efficient Carrier furnace that wont stop running.


I am assuming for the first explanation, the thermostat is not being satisfied. If this is the case, you may have a duct fallen off and is not heating the interior of the home. I have had several supply ducts fallen off the supply under homes in one subdivision because the original installers only duct taped the supply ducting to the headers and the duct just blew off. This happens more often than I would like to mention in attics spaces also. So if the thermostat is not satisfied look for major leaks.
2nd part, you may need to replace the themostat wire if the wires are shorting out. In particular the white wire is the normal color for thermostat for w connection for furnace control. If a white wire is shorting to any control wire that has 24 volts on it, like the green wire for the fan, red wire for the control voltage to most controls etc, the furnace will run continuously as long as the furnace is getting the voltage on the white wire. To check this out, turn the thermostat to off and check the voltage on the white wire to common. If 26 volts is present, the wire is shorting somewhere and the thermostat wire that is damaged needs to be replaced. I have seen pets, rodents, lawn mower blade damage, bad insulation problems and overdrawing components causing theromostat wire deterioration.
3rd possibility, is remote due to the unit has been installed for 10 years, but if recent addtions were made to home, the unit may not produce enough heat to heat the additional demands of added rooms. In particular, this winter has been really cold in some locals and the unit may just be undersized.
Hope this helps

Feb 05, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Furnace blowing warm air, ac overheats


Sounds like it is tripping on it's high pressure switch. This could be caused by a dirty condenser coil, overcharge of refrigerant, or non condensables in the system ( air most likely). I would get a second opinion from a repuatable company, sounds like he's trying to rip you off.

Sep 25, 2012 | Bryant Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How do you install a thermostat on a 2001 suburban?


  1. Standing in front of the vehicle it's on the left front side of engine kind of low.
  2. Be sure to get a gasket as well.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Loosen the air cleaner outlet duct clamps at the following locations:
    • Throttle body
    • Mass airflow/intake air temperature (MAF/IAT) sensor
  5. Remove the radiator inlet hose clip from the outlet duct.
  6. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct.
  7. Reposition the outlet hose clamp at the water pump.
  8. Remove the outlet hose from the water pump.
  9. Remove the water pump inlet bolts.
  10. Remove the water pump inlet and thermostat from the water pump. Water pump inlet/thermostat assembly location
To install:

  1. Install the thermostat and water pump inlet to the water pump.
  2. Install the water pump inlet bolts.
  3. Tighten the water pump inlet bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
  4. Install the outlet hose to the water pump.
  5. Position the outlet hose clamp at the water pump. NOTE
    Important: Align the arrow at the throttle body end of the duct with the throttle body attaching stud.
  6. Install the air cleaner outlet duct.
  7. Install the radiator inlet hose clip to the outlet duct.
  8. Tighten the air cleaner outlet duct clamps at the following locations:
    • Throttle body
    • Mass airflow/intake air temperature (MAF/IAT) sensor
  9. Tighten the air cleaner outlet duct clamp screws to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
  10. Fill the cooling system and check for leaks.

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_thermostat_located_on_a_2001_chevy_suburban#ixzz1TvIO3kpD

Aug 03, 2011 | 2001 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

2003 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2500HD 6.0 - thermostat location and replacement


4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L Engines
  1. Remove the air inlet duct.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the radiator outlet hose.
  4. Remove the thermostat housing bolts.
  5. Remove the thermostat from the water pump housing.

The O-ring seal is integral to the thermostat housing



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Thermostat housing-4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines


To install:

  1. Install the thermostat to the water pump housing making sure the spring side is inserted into the engine.
  2. Install the bolts.
    • Tighten the bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
  3. Install the radiator outlet hose.
  4. Fill the cooling system.
  5. Install the air inlet duct.
  6. Test the system for leaks.
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Nov 13, 2010 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

2 Answers

Where can I get solid/detailed instructions for changing out the water pump on my 2001 Yukon SLE 4.8? Something that would include torque specs. and any must does and don'ts would be nice.


Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Denali, DenaliXL, YukonXL 1999-2005 Water Pump - Removal & Installation 4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L Engines
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Air outlet duct Coolant Inlet radiator hose from the water pump Upper fan shroud Cooling fan and clutch assembly Drive belt Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump Surge tank hose Heater hose Water pump

    62c3d00.jpg
    Fig. Exploded view of the water pump assembly-4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines
To install:

NOTE DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) unless otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the cooling system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may cause engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the engine components/assembly.
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts first pass to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten the pulley bolts first pass to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Surge tank hose Heater hose Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump Drive belt Cooling fan and clutch assembly Upper fan shroud Inlet radiator hose to the water pump Air inlet duct Coolant

  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Air inlet and outlet duct Coolant Inlet radiator hose from the water pump Upper fan shroud Cooling fan and clutch assembly Drive belt Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump Surge tank hose Heater hose Water pump

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) for the first pass; then tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) for the final pass. Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) for the first pass; then tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) for the final pass. Surge tank hose Heater hose Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump Drive belt Cooling fan and clutch assembly Upper fan shroud Inlet radiator hose to the water pump Air inlet and outlet duct Coolant

Hope this help to solve it (remember comment and rated this).

Apr 26, 2010 | 2001 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

Replacement of water pump on 2004 gmc sierra 2500hd 6.0l. any tips on removal and installation


Remove or disconnect the following:

Air outlet duct Coolant Inlet radiator hose from the water pump Upper fan shroud Cooling fan and clutch assembly Drive belt Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump Surge tank hose Heater hose Water pump

0996b43f802030d1.jpg

DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) unless otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the cooling system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may cause engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the engine components/assembly.

Install or connect the following:

Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts first pass to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten the pulley bolts first pass to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Surge tank hose Heater hose Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump Drive belt Cooling fan and clutch assembly Upper fan shroud Inlet radiator hose to the water pump Air inlet duct Coolant

Jan 15, 2010 | GMC Sierra 2500HD Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

REPLACING HEATER CORE


HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT REMOVAL PROCEDURE 1. Remove the fuel injector sight shield. 2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System in Cooling System. 3. Use J 38185 in order to position aside the heater hose inlet and outlet clamps at the heater core. 4. Disconnect the inlet and outlet heater hose from the heater core. 5. Remove the RH Instrument Panel Closeout/Insulator panel. 6. Remove the LH Instrument Panel Closeout/Insulator panel 7. Remove the floor carpet. 8. Remove the rear floor air outlet duct from the holes in the floor reinforcement. 9. Disconnect the rear floor air outlet duct from the heater air outlet cover. 10. Remove the rear floor air outlet duct. 11. Remove the heater air outlet cover screws . 12. Remove the heater air outlet cover heat stakes with a small chisel. 13. Remove the heater air outlet cover from the HVAC module assembly. 14. Remove the heater core cover screws . 15. Remove the heater core cover heat stakes with a small chisel. 16. Remove the heater core cover from the HVAC module assembly. 17. Remove the heater core from the HVAC module assembly. 18. Remove the heater core foam seal (1) from the HVAC module assembly.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 1. Install a new heater core foam seal to the HVAC module assembly. 2. Install the heater core to the HVAC module assembly. 3. From the inside of the heater core cover, drill the dimples adjacent to the heat stakes using a 5.5 mm (7/32 in) drill bit. 4. Install the heater core cover to the HVAC module assembly. NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. 5. Install the heater core cover screws . Tighten Tighten all screws to 1.5 N.m (13 lb in) . 6. From the inside of the heater air outlet cover, drill the dimples adjacent to the heat stakes using a 5.5 mm (7/32 in) drill bit. 7. Install the heater air outlet cover. 8. Install the heater air outlet cover screws (2). Tighten Tighten the screws to 1.5 N.m (13 lb in) . 9. Connect the rear floor air outlet duct to the heater air outlet cover. 10. Install the rear floor air outlet duct to the holes in the floor reinforcement. 11. Install the floor carpet. 12. Install the RH Instrument Panel Closeout/Insulator panel. 13. Install the LH Instrument Panel Closeout/Insulator panel. 14. Connect the inlet and outlet heater hose to the heater core. 15. Use J 38185 in order to reposition the heater hose inlet and outlet clamps to the heater core. 16. Install the fuel injector sight shield. 17. Fill the cooling system.

Nov 13, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

1 Answer

I just got my water outlet replace now my car is over heating


Hi:
I am not sure why you had your water outlet replaced, but the thermostat is located just below the water outlet. It is possible that it was installed backwards or something odd like that. I would suggest that you remove the water inlet and check things out.

Nov 12, 2009 | 2006 Chrysler 300

1 Answer

How to replace a water pump on a 2003 yukon


Water Pump Replacement (4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L Engines)
Removal Procedure
1. Drain the cooling system.
2. Loosen the air cleaner outlet duct clamps at these locations:
 Throttle body
 Mass Airflow/Intake Air Temperature (MAF/IAT) sensor
3. Remove the radiator inlet hose clip from the outlet duct.
4. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct.
5. If necessary, remove the engine sight shield.
6. Remove the radiator vent inlet hose from the radiator hose clips.
7. Reposition the inlet hose clamp at the water pump.
8. Remove the inlet hose from the water pump.
9. Remove the fan blade.
11. Reposition the outlet hose clamp at the water pump.
12. Remove the outlet hose from the water pump.
13. Reposition the surge tank outlet hose clamp at the water pump.
14. Remove the surge tank outlet hose from the water pump.
15. Reposition the heater inlet hose clamp at the water pump.
16. Remove the heater inlet hose from the water pump.
17. Remove the water pump bolts.
18. Remove the water pump and gaskets.
19. Discard the water pump gaskets
Installation Procedure Important: All gaskets surfaces are to be free of oil or other foreign material
during assembly.
1. Install the water pump and NEW gaskets
2. Install the water pump bolts.
3. Install the heater inlet hose to the water pump.
Zoom Sized for Print
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service and Precautions.
2.1. Tighten the bolts a first pass to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
2.2. Tighten the bolts a final pass to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
4. Position the heater inlet hose clamp at the water pump.
5. Install the surge tank outlet hose to the water pump.
6. Position the surge tank outlet hose clamp at the water pump.
7. Install the outlet hose to the water pump.
8. Position the outlet hose clamp at the water pump.
9. Install the accessory drive belt.
10. Install the fan blade.
11. Install the inlet hose to the water pump.
12. Position the inlet hose clamp at the water pump.
13. Install the engine vent inlet hose to the radiator hose clips.
14. If necessary, install the engine sight shield.
Important: Align the arrow at the throttle body end of the duct with the throttle
body attaching stud.
15. Install the air cleaner outlet duct
16. Install the radiator inlet hose clip to the outlet duct.
17. Tighten the air cleaner outlet duct clamps at these locations:
 Throttle body
 MAF/IAT sensor Tighten the clamps to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.).
18. Fill the cooling system.

I hope this helps. The numbering is incorrect in the sequence but the instructions are correct.

Roy

Nov 06, 2009 | 2003 GMC Yukon

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