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My maytag centennial washer won't drain wash

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 17,130 Answers

It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged. Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be replaced. If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.

Cleaning a pump: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKjKi50YBpI&NR=1&feature=fvwp

Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there is no residual water remaining.

Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check this link for tips:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1373/how-to-replace-the-pump-on-a-washing-machine-.html

Posted on Jan 17, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: My maytag washer will fill up with water but not start washing

Replace your lid switch.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

beltronic205
  • 1467 Answers

SOURCE: Overfilling maytag centennial - brand new?

Sounds like a hose off pressure switch or faulty switch/ however make sure drain connected ok 1st....

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

richroth
  • 9472 Answers

SOURCE: Washer immediately goes into wash cycle when

The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

Posted on Jan 26, 2011

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Have a Maytag washer LAT9635AAE. It fills with

Remove the timer and get the outer skin off of it. Twist the timer around and hunt for burn marks on the barrel. I suspect it is the timer. To get it off you pop the cap on the knob and under it is a keeper and spring you remove. Then the knob and skirt will come off and you can get to the screws which hold the timer to the consolethemobilian_29.png
If the timer turns out to be ok then the motor is suspect.
Note: This washer is well worth repairing. Anything out there on the market now is trash compared to this machine. Invest in repairing it. You will be glad you did.

Posted on May 18, 2011

Testimonial: "TheMobilian, you're the best. Decided to repair instead of replace per your advice, and your solution was perfection. Back in service thanks to you!"

Jahn27
  • 1554 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Centennial Washer model MVWC6ESWW1

It sounds like this is a clutch and brake assembly problem. The clutch spring must provide the necessary pressure for the lining to turn with the hub and the clutch tab to push the brake cam driver and release the brake. The clutch spring of your washer must be weak or the clutch lining is worn causing it to slide and not release the brake. This prevents the tab that holds the clutch spring to force the brake cam driver, release the brake, and allow the basket to spin particularly when the machine is under load. This is manifested in the spinning of the drum when the machine is empty. The clutch and brake assemblies are located just below the tub and the excessive heat resulted from the friction between the clutch lining and the clutch hub.

Remove the thrust washer from the agitator shaft then remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip using a screwdriver. Unsnap the clip and the clutch retaining ring the slide the clutch off the agitator shaft. Make sure to retain the washer located under the clutch.

Install the new clutch assembly on top of the gearcase then insert the clutch band and hold it in place. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, place the end caps on the clutch spring and compress to insert into the open end of the band. Release the tension on the spring and the band will stay in place the reinsert the retaining clip on top of the clutch.


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Posted on Jul 30, 2011

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http://applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Maytag-Centennial/Maytag-Centennial-Washer-Error-Fault-Codes.php
Hope it helps! Good luck!

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