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I have a old banner 4by12 Bdc and cannot adjust my scope down enough to hit the target at 100 yards. Has something happened to it or is there a way to adjust it further

I have not used this scope in some time but was always accurate. I sighted it in before I took it to Florida to do some hog hunting, had a shot but missed. It was getting pretty dark so thought that was the reason for the miss. I took it coyote hunting yesterday and missed again. After checking it today, it was off by about 10" high. Adjusted it down as far as possible but could not get to where I needed to be. Any ideas? Dave

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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magoo23
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SOURCE: sighting in red dot shotgun scope

Load your gun up and when you can shoot it, aim with your new glass(Scope) and lay out a group of three slugs, not buckshot, (i'm assuming your shooting a shotgun). Then use some trial and error to tighten your dot to your grouping. I don't blame you for the confusion, but normally, most scopes set up for this adjustment pattern are moving your target according to the knobs, not your crosshairs or dot. Another option you have is to buy a laser bore sighter. then you can play with adjusting your scope for in the field or wherever with much more comfort when you need to. You can find them online at walmart or almost any sporting goods store these days, yes they save ammo and yeas they save time, but i still shoot to make sure i'm dead on after using mine.

Posted on May 06, 2008

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SOURCE: sighting in, clicks don't move where they're supposed to.

Ja, it's 1/4 M.O.A, so at 25 yards/meter it'll be ca 3 inches. You may have gone in the wrong direction. That is, if it was 3' high, and you went another 3 higher then you'd be at the top of the paper. Probably you've got it figured out by now.

The easiest, fastest, cheapest way to zero is with a rifle rest you can clamp your scope into, or alternatively somehow immobilize your rifle some other way. You take a shot, at 25 yards or so. It makes a hole. You now immobilize the rifle, via your rest or heavy sandbags, with the scope pointing exactly where you aimed before. You now, carefully and without moving the rifle/scope off of the point of aim, dial your reticle to point at the actual bullet hole. Your next shot will be at your point of aim now. So you just put it at the right height above your point of aim at 100 yards now.

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

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SOURCE: red dot finderscope alignment problem

point the telescope at some thing during the day and adjust the finder scope and at night point at a star look through the eye piece and center the object in the eye piece then adjust the finder scope.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Instruction manual for 1970's custom .22 scope with BDC

Hold the outer portion of the elevation knob and unscrew the screw on top. then pull up on the outer portion and you'll see a silver screw marked with an arrow and the word "Up". Sight the rifle at a known distance and then line up the knob with that distance as you push it down on the scope and replace the screw. I have one of these and figured this out on my own, however I'm missing the mount and would like some pictures and dimensions of the mount if any of you can get some. I'm gonna be machining a new one and would like to keep it as close to the original as possible.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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SOURCE: how to sight scope in /what scope do i have ?

Real simple Scott.
You can 'Zero' your scope/rifle even if you don't have a laser bore-scope device.
All this is assuming that your used rifle has not had the barrel shot out and that the head-space is still within specs for that rifle. Have all this checked by a gunsmith first. You can dress up a piece of poop and it will be pretty, but still be poop. Make sure yours isn't to begin with. As for the scope, it's hard to tell unless there's obvious damage or it's an antique past it's prime. Try to get as good a quality scope as possible to start with. You would not put one ply tube tires on your mustang and expect to get the best performance, so...
Most rifles are capable of shooting quite accurately, and all things being equal, it's the shooters job of making it happen.
Ammunition should be considered as well. Toss your old military ball ammo and junk from overseas, both of'em. If you want to shoot accurately and consistently, you must spend the bucks for the best ammo you can afford.
You MUST KNOW what the BALLISTICS are for the Cal./type/weight ammo you will be shooting and the corresponding distance it will be shot from.

Make sure your rifle is CLEAN inside and out. A clean rifle is a happy rifle.
Make sure that your rifle 'fits' your body's frame and that you are familiar and practice good rifle shooting techniques.
'Zeroing' is best done from the prone position as that is the most steady position to shoot from.
Do you have a bi-pod attached? Whether you do or not, sandbag your rifle securely but still able to make small adjustments to the rifle position itself.
Set up a target with a 1" black dot at 50rds.
Remove the bolt.
Lay down with your rifle but stay OFF of it, touch it as little as possible at this point.
With out disturbing the rifle look through the bore downrange to your target. Locate the black dot and if necessary adjust your rifle from the **** end until you can see the dot through the bore. Keep making minor adjustments until the dot appears to be centered in the bore. Make sure rifle is secure and steady at this point.
Then without moving or touching the rifle, look through the scope using the correct eye relief distance and locate the black dot. Now using the Vertical(Elevation) and Horizontal(Windage) adjustment knobs, move the reticles(crosshairs) until they both are centered on the dot.
Again look through the bore to make sure that you have not moved the rifle and that the dot is still centered in the bore. If not, adjust the rifle again to center the dot, then go back to the scope and adjust as necessary to move the RETICLES to the center of the dot. It may be necessary to repeat this a few times before you have achieved this particular goal.
You do not mention brand/model of your scope. It probably adjusts the reticle or crosshairs in 1/4minute increments (1/4 inch increments with each individual click movement of the turret knobs at 100 yard distance). IT IS CRITICAL for you to know how your own scope adjusts.
Now, bolt back in and load 3 rounds of quality ammo.
You are going to shoot 3 rounds in succession without getting off the rifle or making any adjustments to the rifle or scope. You are looking for a 3 shot group to determine a rough average of how far and where the rounds are impacting initially. Use good shooting techniques, breath control, relax, sight picture, squeeeeeeze the trigger, follow through the scope, there is no need to take your eye off the scope while doing this, hold your shooting position for all 3 shots.
You will now have to make adjustments of the scope unless you are hitting the black dot already which is quite possible.
Remember that if your scope is a 1/4" adjustment at 100yds, it means that for each 'click' that you adjust either Vertically or Horizontally at 100rds, the reticle/crosshairs will move accordingly 1/4 of an inch Vertically or Horizontally. At 200yds, one click will move it 1/2 inch, at 300yrd it will move it 3/4 of an inch, at 400yrd, it will be 1 inch.
Right now you are at 50yrds distance from your target. Each click from here will move the RETICLES about 1/8 of an inch so estimate the distance that your most central shot of the 3 you fired, is from the black dot and adjust accordingly. You're not moving the RIFLE here, you are simply moving the scope RETICLES so that your point of aim and point of impact coincides.
Now load 3 more rounds of ammo and repeat as above. You should only have to use about 9 rounds to get on target, the black dot.
Once you are hitting the black dot at the 50yrd line, move back to the 100yrd line. Put a fresh black dot on your target and repeat the steps from above. Your first 3 shots from the 100yrd line should be about 1/2 to 1 inch low. Don't follow the bullet strikes! Keep your point of aim and the crosshairs ON the black dot no matter where the bullets are striking on the target. Remember, now at 100yrds your RETICLES will move 1/4inch with each 'click' of adjustment of the turret knobs.
Adjust the scope as needed at this point. Once you are 'ON TARGET'(hitting the black dot), you now have your 100yrd. 'ZERO'.
Now that you have this 100yrd ZERO, you must loosen the turret knobs , both the Vertical(Elevation) and the Horizontal(Windage) turrets and align the '0' on the knobs with the '0' on the scope at the base of each knob. Now tighten the set screws and you are set to go. If you want to know your 200yrd 'ZERO', simply move back to the 200yrd line, your 'come-up' or elevation adjustment should be about 7-9 clicks, at least for .308 168grn HPBT, but you will figure it out for the Cal./brand/wght ammo you are using. WHATEVER the 'come-up' you need to make at 200, 300,400yrds or wherever, be sure to make note of the number of clicks you used to find the Zero for that distance. Use a fine point endelible marker and actually write the ZERO info on thestock of your rifle. You don't need to mark anything for the 100yrd ZERO, it's a given already. Write; 200/9, 300/18 and so on. You should also get your ZERO for the intermidiate, 150yrd, 250yrds etc, distances as well.
Remember that weather conditions, source and intesity of light conditions, your own body condition at any particular moment or day can have an affecf on how you and/or your rifle shoot. Good luck.

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

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Simply put, the Mil-Dot is a way to estimate range with the scopes reticle. This type of reticle was developed for military applications. The space between the dot centers is equal to one milliradian (Mil). hence the name mil-dot. One Mil equals 3.6" inches at 100 yards, or 36" at 1,000 yards. To use this system effectively you must know the size of the target. For instance most people are an average of 6 feet tall or 2 yards. The formula used for determining range to the target is (size of target x 1000 divided by number of mils the target covers). Hope this helps FixYa up.

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How do you make adjustments, towards the shot or towards center of the target?


You move the cross hairs to the shot. Set up your gun on a bench and start by firing at a target out at about 15 yards. Once you are "on paper" set your cross hairs on the center and fire a 3 shot group Adjust the scope to the group. if the group is down 3 inch and left 4 inch. Adjust your scope accordingly. Then Fire another 3 shot group, until you are shooting center. Every time you adjust your scope tap the barrel of the scope with a screwdriver handle to keep the cross hairs from sticking. Once on at 15 yards move out to your max range and adjust to that.

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How do i site in my Bushnell Banner 30x-9x scope?


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How to use the BDC on my rifle scope



  1. Step 1 Take a rifle with a properly installed BDC bullet drop compensating reticle to a rifle range. Using ear protection zero the scope reticle so that the point of impact corresponds to the center of the cross hairs at the distance you have selected - typically 100 or 200 yds.
  2. Step 2 Determine the trajectory of the specific cartridge you have selected. There are several ways to do this. Ammo manufacturers publish trajectory and wind drift information. There are web based ballistic calculators like http://www.biggameinfo.com/BalCalc.aspx which will tell you how much your bullet drops at known distances.
  3. Step 3 Scope manufacturers like Leupold can be a valuable source of information about their reticle: "Leupold® Ballistic Aiming System: Boone and Crockett Club® Big Game Reticle aiming system provides a series of additional aiming points to improve your ability to shoot accurately at longer ranges. Nikon2_bing.gif also provides good information suggesting the marks on their reticle be used for zero at 100yds followed by circles below representing 200, 300, 400 and 500 yds if the cartridge travels around 2800 ft per sec. Nikon suggests the center cross hair be zeroed at 200 yds for magnum calibers traveling around 3000 ft per sec. We understant that each variation of different bullet weight and powder charge changes trajectory and a scope manufacturer can not build a different reticle for each different cartridge made so practice on the range to determine how well the marks relate to the actual impact of where your bullet strikes at a know distance is important. The one thing that people using BDC scopes typically have problems with is that a BDC scope has the reticle in the second focal plane of the scope. If the reticle was in the first focal plane of the scope the reticle would look smaller on low powers like 3x and grow proportionately larger as the power increased to say 9x top power. The problem is that while the marks on the BDC reticle correspond accurately to the bullet drop at the know distances 200, 300yds etc. What happens when you lower the power from the scopes maximum power to any other lower power is the reticle stays the same size and the field of view within the scope increases which means that the distance between these marks on the BDC reticle no longer corresponds to the point where the bullet will strike. In short BDC reticles only work at the maximum power of the scope or at a set specific power. At all other powers these BDC reticles do not accurately represent where the bullet will strike.
  4. Step 4 The center X always remains the same. If you zero at 100 yards and you know that your bullet drops 8 inches at 300 yards you could forget about the BDC marks and hold the center X 8 inches high - that works at any power 3x or 9x and should be used at lower powers. If you zero the center crosshair at 100yds and have the BDC scope at the maximum power 9X then the first line or circle below the center X should be the mark you place on the center of the 200 yard target----- the bullet strike should hit the center. If by some chance you put the scope on 3x and placed that first mark below the center cross hair on that 200 yard target you would shoot over the top of the target. This is because as the power of the scope decreases the field of view increases the angle increase and gets wider. You can experiment with known power settings and see at a specific power say 3x what that first circle down corresponds to and make notes because at any set power what the marks correspond to will be repeatable.
I got this from a website, hope it helps.

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Which knob on the bushnell banner scope will raise the bullet when it is hitting six inches low?


It's a common misconception that you are moving the bullet's impact on the target... the bullet is hitting where the rifle is pointing and you want to get the scope to look at that same spot.
To move the scope's reticle up or down, turn the adjustment on the TOP of the cope in the direction you want the scope to look, so if your shooting low, turn the scope's adjustment in the DOWN direction.
Hope this helps, Mark the Gunsmith

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How to set my bushnell scope 3-9x40 for 200 yards


The Bushnell 3-9X40 has been around for quite some time in several forms, but it is pretty standard to set it like any other scope.

With the gun resting solidly on sand bags or something like a Lead Sled, shoot at a target with a 1" grid on it. Those targets are a free download at http://targetz.com/, but you have to browse to find them. Targets No: 10049 or 10058 are both usable, if you can see a 1" aiming point with a 9 power scope at 200 yards.

With a known point of impact (POI) at 200 yards, you can move the POI to where you want it (inside the caps at the center of the scope, there are adjusting screws or slots). The norm is 1/4" per click (the adjuster can usually be felt to click) at 100 yards or four 1/4" clicks for an inch. At 200 yards, the adjustment will be twice what it is at 100 yards or 1/2" per click.

Make your adjustments, using the grid on the target to tell you how many inches it needs to move, and shoot the target again to confirm the adjustment is correct. It's pretty standard to shoot at least a three shot group to ensure the bullets are reasonably close to each other.

Another method is to set the POI at a certain number of inches high at 100 yards and assume it's right at 200 yards. If the mid range trajectory, for your cartridge, at 200 yards is X inches high at 100 yards, you can set your POI to that X inches high and be pretty close at 200 yards.

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1 Answer

When adjusting for a couple of inches, the next shot is a foot off. It seems to wander all over the target.


! click is 1 inch @ 100 yards, provided you have the correct scope for the rifle.
If you are sighting in a .22 LR 40 grain match velocity bullet for 100 yards, the mid range trajectory (50 Yards) is 6" higher. The bullet has a 6" arc half way to your target. If you are sighting in a .270 with 150 grain blunt tail bullets for 250 yards, the mid range trajectory is .4 higher. It only has 4/10" arc half way.
You most match the scope to the gun, and the 1 click= 1 inch rule will apply. Otherwise, it's lock it into a righd mount, fire it and adjust the scope accordingly. If you want to change the range on the scope, it will be guesswork.
I use a Bushnell Banner 3-9X40 with BDC. If you have BDC, make sure you have the correct distance ring in for the caliber.. It will make all the difference in the world.

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To adjust the vertical on a Bushnell Banner scope, which way do I turn the screw and how much. I am 6 inches high


The top turret should be the one you need. You should see an U or D with an arrow pointing in one direction or another. Your scope should move the point of impact 1/4 inch at 100 yards for each click. Moving the adjustment 24 clicks in the down direction should fix you up if you are shooting at 100 yards. The movement will be linear for other distances.

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I have a Bushnell Sprotiew 4x, 15mm scope mounted on a Mossburg .22 rifle. My shots are hitting left six inches and low. Can you please tell me how to adjust this scope? Thank you.


Keep in mind Diane this is for a set distance. if you are taking a shot at a target further than your are set for (ie a target you wont get 3 shots @) remember how the bullet is travelling as it goes down range

one idea would be to set your rifle up down range and zero it in on a target (preferably paper) now adjust 1 MOA (try and have target @ 100 yards and 200 yards)

see how far the bullet moves for each moa adjustment. then check it against the next range.

this should remain constant @ a set number of inches per 100 yards.

so if you zero in @ 100 yards and then move 1 moa any direction and it adjusts (lets say and hope it is 1.047 inches") then you do the same for 200 yards. it should be twice as much movement. ie 2.094"

once you know what 1 moa represents on your scope you can adjust alot more accurately.

REMEBER the total inches of movement / adjustment per MOA is directly related to range (a precise range helps in shooting) so if your squirrel is 150 yards and your first shot is off 9" to adjust you divide 9" by the inches per moa so 1.5 (150 yards /100) X (Inches per 100 yards per moa you measured hopefully 1.047") its 9" divided by 2x1.047 = 9" / 2.094 = 4.29799

this number needs to be rounded to the nearest click on your scope (most are 1/4 MOA scopes and you can tell by looking at how many clicks/lines are inbewteen each large number on your windage and elevation dials

so to turn this into an adjustment we round 4.29799 to 4.25 which is 4.25 MOA or 17 clicks on a 1/4 min scope.

GL and any questions just post and ill help

not please rate this as fixya :)

Note i can provide EXACT information that would allow you to determine range, and windage and elevation adjustments by looking through scope and estimating range
then factoring in weather variables. NOTE you hafta enjoy math or just want to know how to shoot really well. :)


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