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What to use to clean rust on motor of wm2277hw washer

Water must leaked in back of machine and has a little rust on bottom of motor

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 17,130 Answers

You can use WD40 on the area and clean it out after some time . The rust will come off and thereafter you can use some paint to cover up the area using the same colour shade.
Plug the leak using a good insulator before the painting is done.

Posted on Jan 17, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool washer machine

I suggest you remove the front of the washer and observe the base of the drum and all hoses while in operation, using a flashlight attempt to find the source of the leak. **USE CAUTION!** Moving parts, water and electrical components present a very real hazard! If you have a top loading washer which agitates the clothing back and forth, one possible cause is the transmission. There is an internal locking mechanism which sometimes fails and will not engage, allowing the drum to continue to spin in one direction. The water will rise as the drum gains speed until it reaches the overflow outlets at the upper portion of the drum. These overflow outlets allow the water to spill out inside the bottom of the washer and out onto the floor. To check this, run the washer with the lid open (to do so, use a plastic or dry wooden stick [something non-conductive] to push down and hold the safety interlock switch closed) if the washer does not agitate back and forth and only spins in one direction you have a transmission problem. JUST BE CAREFUL WHEN OPERATING WITH THE INTERLOCK BYPASSED AS YOU WILL HAVE EXPOSED MOVING PARTS! If you feel any hesitation or concern about doing this...STOP!!, get someone comfortable or certified to do this type of work. While it is not difficult to do these things, there are risks and a momentary distraction can be painful, disfiguring or deadly. In this case, a repairman can be cheaper than a trip to the emergency room. You be the judge of your own skills and abilities.

Good Luck

Posted on Jan 30, 2008

danromarris
  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series leaking water from bottom

I used to work for Sears as a home repair technician and washers and dryers were my specialty. Most likely the problem is with your water pump. I ran across this issue many times and what happens is people leave things in their pockets and it destroys the pump. A hair pin or coins, I have even seen socks and under ware get stuck in them causing leaks. What you want to do is tip the machine back and look at the pump. It is located right at the front of the washer with two hoses connected to it. You will want a pair of hose clamps though if you don't want water all over your floor. Disconnect the pump and look inside it for anything causing the motor inside to not work, this will cause slow draining and even leaking. If it looks clear then look for any cracks in the pump. If there is a crack then it needs to be replaced. Just call your local appliance repair place and tell them what you need. Pumps run around 30 bucks or less on average for Kenmore's. If everything looks good on the pump check the hoses that run from the pump and make sure there are no cracks or holes in the hoses. If they look good then the only thing left is the tub and the overflow tube. Chances are though that your pump is what the problem is and it is an easy fix. Good luck.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Drain Pump Filter Leaks on LG TROMM WM2277HW

I had to remove the two little plastic tabs that prevent you from tightening the filter plud too tight. Grind these two tabs off and you will find youare able to tighten the pluf just a bit more and it will no longer leak.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: lg front load washer leaking from bottom of machine

I just fixed this problem - there is a rubber hose that hooks the bottom of the drum to the drain and recycle pumps - it is ribbed and it developed a hole. To confirm and repair (repair can be done from the front of the machine)

  1. Unplug the machine.
  2. Drain whatever water you can from the machine using the stoppered hose behind the bottom left panel
  3. Unscrew the visible screw holding the plastic in place near the drain hose and filter
  4. If you can pull the plastic recessed piece out, there is one screw visible behind it - unswcrew this. If you cannot pull it out now, you should be able to get it after you remove the screws in step 10
  5. Pull out the detergent drawer (push in the middle back "botton" to release the drawer to pull out fully)
  6. Unscrew two screws in the drawer area.
  7. Pull the top of the electronics assembly away from the machine and lift the assembly out (place on top of the machine or hook it out of the way)
  8. Open the door and remove the spring loaded wire around the door seal (be careful as the seal can be torn)
  9. Pull the seal away from the metal front panel, then close the door
  10. Remove four screws at the top of the front panel (that were behind the eletronics assembly) - If you already have removed the screw from step 4, proceed, otherwise lean the top of front panel out and pop the plastic out, hold panel in place and remove that bottom screw from step 4.
  11. Lift front panel about two inches, swing the entire front panel to the right and set against something - You should now be able to see inside the machine.
  12. There is a black hose right in the middle - when I squeezed mine a little, I could see where the water was dripping out from the bottom.
  13. There are three clamps - two that can be squeezed with pliers and removed, one that has to be unscrewed (phillips head screw - it is a bit blind as the screw faces the back of the machine) - Once I got mine off - I could see the hole.
  14. Order replacement and reassmble in the opposite order

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

skimbot
  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: TROMM WASHER WM2277HW LG. GET IE ERROR AT BEGINNING OF WASH CYCLE

That noise means it is blocked. Did you get the filters in the back of the machine at the inlets? I've been through heck with this.... check out what finally worked.

IE= Inlet Error. I have struggled with this problem. After much trial and error it appears that it is due to my well water. People who have city water will probably not have this problem with this machine. Well water or hard water buyers beware. This machine is VERY much a primadonna princess capable of stopping your rinse cycle at the slightest imperfections. This is the Princess and the Pea of Washers... but I have a series of possible solutions that will have you appreciating her primadonna superiority once again.

Troubleshooting... Listen.... Does she sound like she is struggling and no water is coming in? If so then it isn't. The cycles will last forever as she makes all sorts of grunting noises. Something is preventing the water from coming in. It could also be that the pressure in to the washer is under 55 psi.

a. I have adjusted the pressure in the pumphouse to allow for minor fluctuations so that the machine will have at least 55 psi.

b. Take off the hot and cold inlet hose and clean the screen at the back of the washer. The two screens are supposed to come out of the male receptacles. They are fragile... beware. I use a squirt bottle/atomizer to clean these screens as mine chipped and will not budge.

c. You can add a screen just off the faucets so that you don't have to move the machine each and every time you get an IE error. This helps but does not solve.

d. I installed a faucet filter that I bought from Home Depot in the PVC sprinkler's section. They are made of a black plastic material and can easily cross thread, so be careful. They look about the size of a one liter container and unscrew midway to reveal a removable cylindrical mesh filter. This makes it possible to widen the surface area where tiny particles can be trapped without totally blocking flow to the inlet sensor. :-) When installing this make sure to completely rinse the hoses, and all screens coming into the machine. I took the shortcut first and thought my idea had failed only to discover that the screen behind the washer was partially blocked.

e. Periodically remove the filter and clean. Depending on the quality of your water, you may need to do this at all the points that have a screen.

I now have a screen washer between the sprinkler system filter and hose and the one that comes installed inside the male ends of the inlets for the water hoses. This has helped enormously.

f. Another possible offender is the soap and softener dispenser. To remove and clean press down on the plastic toggle piece on the soap side, the whole drawer should slide off and clean. Non-HE detergents and softeners can create a buildup of gooey gunk. Just clean it. Inside the drawer space you can clean to increase flow. I use baby wipes.

g. Make sure that the filter on the bottom is free from obstructions. If there is water in the drum, you will be flooded if you remove. This is a last resort after all the inlet lines have been cleaned and cleared.

Note: It doesn't take much to lower the flow of water to the point that this machine will not run. Since you cannot override the computer on it to run a spin cycle or even advance to remove water it can be highly frustrating. I've learned to obey my machine and just clear every last possible inlet.

Best of luck.

Posted on May 30, 2010

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I have a D3432 and had a blocked pipe that kept the motor running. I opened the toe kick and drained the water from the bottom tray which seemed to have solved the motor issue but after running the machine...


Well, there are a couple of places where washers can leak.
  • There are a couple of hoses underneath: from the tub to the water pump, and from the water pump to the drain connector.
  • The fill sensor switch has a length of small diameter tubing that connects to the outer tub.
  • The tub itself could rust through (as it did when my 1984 washer was about 22 years old)
  • The seal or bearing where the motor shaft goes through the outer tub could have failed.
You will have to take the back cover off and run a cycle to identify the site of the leak.

Nov 25, 2014 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water leaking from bottom of machine


There are an huge number of things that might make a machine do this and because there is usually a framework at the base of most machines, the point that the water leaks OUT and the place the water is coming from can often be vastly different, so I will cover what I suspect are the main culprits.

Before you start, check the tub shield gasket (This is the big grey rubber between the door hole and the drum. Push the drum backwards a little, look for rips or tears (run your hand around the entire circle of the gasket, there could even be a tear in the side or top, a little out of sight).

It's now time to start taking the top off the machine (You have not supplied a make and model, So I will guess that the top is held on by a couple of torque screws, hidden behind a couple of plastic covers about the size of your little finger nail on each side of the lid, or a couple of screws that are clearly visible on the back of the lid, screwed through a plastic protuberance and into the chassis - One of these two options will probably be correct!).

UNPLUG FROM THE MAINS BEFORE YOU PROCEED!
Having removed the 2 screws, you may need to give the front of the lid a sharp tap backwards, to release the 2 plastic hooks in the lid from their holes in the chassis, now the lid lifts off.
We are looking for water, or marks where water has been (usually a little chalk deposit unless you are in a very soft water area). Obviously, if one of the following checks turns up something, you will have to replace the faulty component.

Look around generally. Pay particular attention to the pipes that lead from the water inlet valves to the soap drawer, gently wiggle any rubber pipes looking for cracks or loose connections. Look down the back of the machine. If the main bearing is failing, then there may be rusty water splashes on the drum or inside the chassis where water has come through the rusted bearing and splashed about as the drum drive wheel has spun.
Still nothing found? Go to the rear of the machine, depending on the make and model there is a good chance that at the bottom you will find an oval-ish panel at the bottom of the rear with a cutout for the empty pipe to exit through it, held on by about 4 screws. There may be a larger and more substantial panel at the back to remove, depending on the machine you have. Remove the panel.
You can now see the motor, the empty pump and the lower half of the drum. Once again, look for water, or water signs, particularly, look at the centre of the drum, if a bearing has failed and water is leaking, there will probably be a rusty water track visible from the centre of the drum, running down until it drips from the bottom (Classically, the drips may have fallen onto the motor). If these signs are there then I'm afraid the cost of repair is probably going to write off the machine.

Check the empty pump (The thing about 4 inches inside the body with the empty hose attached). Look for signs of water.

If by now you have still found nothing, you may feel competent and able to do the following, BUT TAKE NO RISKS. You can plug the machine back in and set a program running and watch what happens inside, look for water or sparks DO NOT TOUCH OR APPROACH the machine in this condition. Have someone looking in the back while you look in the top. Ensure that neither of you are close enough to touch the machine while you do this.
I hope that some of the advice works for you.

Sep 08, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water is leaking


Knowing your make and model would help. Here are some generic instructions for finding your leak, please post a comment if you require further assistance:

There are an huge number of things that might make a machine do this and because there is usually a framework at the base of most machines, the point that the water leaks OUT and the place the water is coming from can often be vastly different, so I will cover what I suspect are the main culprits.

Before you start, check the tub shield gasket (This is the big grey rubber between the door hole and the drum. Push the drum backwards a little, look for rips or tears (run your hand around the entire circle of the gasket, there could even be a tear in the side or top, a little out of sight).

It's now time to start taking the top off the machine (You have not supplied a make and model, So I will guess that the top is held on by a couple of torque screws, hidden behind a couple of plastic covers about the size of your little finger nail on each side of the lid, or a couple of screws that are clearly visible on the back of the lid, screwed through a plastic protuberance and into the chassis - One of these two options will probably be correct!).

UNPLUG FROM THE MAINS BEFORE YOU PROCEED!

Having removed the 2 screws, you may need to give the front of the lid a sharp tap backwards, to release the 2 plastic hooks in the lid from their holes in the chassis, now the lid lifts off.

We are looking for water, or marks where water has been (usually a little chalk deposit unless you are in a very soft water area). Obviously, if one of the following checks turns up something, you will have to replace the faulty component.

Look around generally. Pay particular attention to the pipes that lead from the water inlet valves to the soap drawer, gently wiggle any rubber pipes looking for cracks or loose connections. Look down the back of the machine. If the main bearing is failing, then there may be rusty water splashes on the drum or inside the chassis where water has come through the rusted bearing and splashed about as the drum drive wheel has spun.

Still nothing found? Go to the rear of the machine, depending on the make and model there is a good chance that at the bottom you will find an oval-ish panel at the bottom of the rear with a cutout for the empty pipe to exit through it, held on by about 4 screws. There may be a larger and more substantial panel at the back to remove, depending on the machine you have. Remove the panel.

You can now see the motor, the empty pump and the lower half of the drum. Once again, look for water, or water signs, particularly, look at the centre of the drum, if a bearing has failed and water is leaking, there will probably be a rusty water track visible from the centre of the drum, running down until it drips from the bottom (Classically, the drips may have fallen onto the motor). If these signs are there then I'm afraid the cost of repair is probably going to write off the machine.

Check the empty pump (The thing about 4 inches inside the body with the empty hose attached). Look for signs of water.

If by now you have still found nothing, you may feel competent and able to do the following, BUT TAKE NO RISKS. You can plug the machine back in and set a program running and watch what happens inside, look for water or sparks DO NOT TOUCH OR APPROACH the machine in this condition. Have someone looking in the back while you look in the top. Ensure that neither of you are close enough to touch the machine while you do this.

I hope that some of the advice works for you.

Jul 19, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Leaking water out of the bottom of the machine before rinse cycle.


rusted bearing bolts! in center on transmission motor. cheaper to buy new one.

Feb 16, 2010 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water leaking out of bottom of washer


There are only a few issues that I usually see with kenmore direct drive washers pertaining to leaks. To check everything you can do it from the bottom. Pull the unit out and lean it back against the wall. Make sure that you have enough slack on fill hoses and drain hose. These are the list of things to check.
1) the pump mounted on the front of the motor. Check the backside and see if its worn through and it could also leak from the center where it goes on the motor shaft.
2) The hoses that connect to the pump.
3) There is a spring that hooks into the back of the tub which will sometimes rust out causing the tub to lean forward during fill and the water splashes off the backguard. (if the spring rusted out you can redrill a hold in the base of the washer and reconnect it)
4) The pressure switch fill tube got ripped out of place this is the clear tube located on the side of the tub. (this would be typical to see if when the washer is in spin and you open the lid it comes to a hard halt). In which case you can tip the machine back and carefully spray some wd40 or white lithium grease into the brake. (be careful not to get any on the clutch which is the silver disk on top of the motor).

Let me know if this helps.

Jan 22, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water came out of the bottom of the machine; it now fills with water,but will not agitate


Seems as if the motor is bad and the main seal is leaking. You need to remove the back panel check the belt to make sure that it is not broken, see if the motor spins at all, and also check for rust deposit on the bottom of the drum

Jan 03, 2010 | GE Washing Machines

1 Answer

Maytag Washer leaking from the bottom


It will be the normal trial and error. Remove the top lld and the back panel.statt the wash again and start looking for anything obvious. Start from the soap box, then carefully look down the sides and then if nothing seen, switch machine off and tilt machine untill you can see the underneath. Look for any areas where there is water .(when visible start looking a little higher untill you find the spot.) Most of the underneath areas are likely rust spots that have broken through.. On occation the pipes are perferrated and have a small leak. All observation.

Sep 23, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Water is leaking out of the bottom when I run it.


If DW is older model (>6yrs) remove toe panel and see if motor (in center of unit) is large and black. If large and black, look for signs of leaking (water stains below motor or rusting on motor)Motor/Pump assembly about $125.00

Jun 10, 2008 | GE Dishwashers

1 Answer

Roper ras8445KQO washer


arlenekc : The water pump needs replaced.

malibu66,: Replacing the pump is not difficult at all.

In the above cases, Tilt the machine back so you have access to the bottom. (It there is a soft bottom plate you will have to remove it.) The pump it located on the bottom of the motor and is held on by two clips. Remove the hoses ant then the clips. The pump should slide off the motor shaft. If the pump does not come off then you will have to break it off. DO NOT pry on the motor or shaft. Once the pump is off check the motor shaft for any rust or build-up. This will have to be removed before a new pump is installed.

Line the pump up to the motor shaft to get it in place and put the unit back together then check the operation.

LITTLEGIRL4 Open the lid and find the water flume where the water comes in. This flume gets out of position sometimes. Start filling the machine and watch the flume. If there is water dripping or running down the sides toward the rear then the flume is not in position or has been damaged.

Dec 25, 2007 | Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer

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